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Turkish group Desa harnesses its 1972 Desa luxury line for growth

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With its elegant ready-to-wear fashioned in supple, colourful leathers, 1972 Desa is little known to the general public, yet finds itself on par with the more prominent luxury labels. The brand was launched in 2014 by Turkish leather goods group Desa, which supplies luxury brands including Prada. Today, the premium men’s and women’s label is accelerating its development and refining its offering under the impetus of Croatian designer Ivana Omazić.

A look from Desa’s autumn-winter 2025-26 collection – 1972 Desa

Omazić has enjoyed a flawless career which has taken her from Romeo Gigli to Miu Miu and Jil Sander via Céline, whose styling she helmed before the Phoebe Philo era. The designer has also worked for Maison Margiela, where she was stationed until the arrival of John Galliano. Omazić debuted at 1972 Desa for spring-summer 2025. However, it was with her autumn-winter 2025-2026 collection of over 100 pieces that she really made her mark, infusing her knowledge of innovative leather treatments, from braiding techniques to laser engraving, into the designs. “All leathers come from the food industry,” said Omazić about her designs.

The label stands out for its use of beautiful materials, notably incredibly supple nappa and plunged lambskin leathers. 1972 Desa also offers a wide range of colours with up to 16 different shades of leather. Outerwear naturally dominates its offering, with coats made from sheepskin and ultra-soft pile as well as striking jackets, such as a model featuring fine leather details reminiscent of feathers and a fully reversible parka in smooth leather on one side and lining on the other.

Omazić often reimagines wardrobe classics through a minimalist lens, but always with a sophisticated touch. She has also enriched the brand’s product range with dresses, skirts, pants, and tops. Moreover, her designs play with construction, such as a trench coat that can be broken down into a sleeveless dress and a bolero.

1972 Desa is distributed through 120 multi-brand retailers worldwide, including Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong, Gio Moretti in Milan, August Pfüller in Frankfurt, Jacques Loup in Cannes, and Nérée in Nice. Europe, helmed by Italy, is the brand’s leading market, followed by Asia (South Korea and Japan), the US, and Canada. The brand offers good value for money, with jackets priced between 800 and 1,400 euros, produced entirely in-house through a fully vertical structure based in Turkey, with a smaller site in Italy.

The label is known for its wide range of leather colours
The label is known for its wide range of leather colours – 1972 Desa

The Desa group has a 20,000-square-metre tannery and an 18,000-square-metre garment factory in Istanbul. It also counts a 10,000-square-metre factory in Düzce, located 200 kilometres east of the Turkish capital, which produces bags for brands in the luxury segment, and has a 2,000-square-metre leather workshop in Poppi near Arezzo, Tuscany.

The business also markets its more accessible ‘Desa’ brand of ready-to-wear, bags, and shoes, through around 100 mono-brand boutiques. The business has a joint-venture partnership with Samsonite Group for distribution in Turkey, along with other countries.

Listed on the Istanbul Stock Exchange since 2004, the group was founded in Istanbul in 1972 by the Çelet family, who still own 80% of the business, which is led by Burak Çelet, the founder’s son. Desa employs over 2,000 people and reported sales of 63.5 million euros in 2024.

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Saks bonds worth just 1 cent hand hedge funds a painful lesson

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Bloomberg

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January 16, 2026

At first glance, Saks looked like exactly the kind of mess hedge funds love. Just months after the company borrowed $2.2 billion to finance its takeover of rival Neiman Marcus, the newly formed luxury retail powerhouse was already running short on cash. Creditors spooked by the pace of the slide rushed for the exits, offering the bonds for less than 40 cents on the dollar.

Saks bonds’ value dropped to just 1 cent – REUTERS/Angelina Katsanis

Bargain hunting hedge funds gleefully took the debt off their hands. This was, after all, a marquee name with valuable brands, prime real estate, big-name backers, and a business that executives said just needed a bit more time to steady itself. Firms including Pentwater Capital Management and Bracebridge Capital jumped in, chasing the promise of eye-popping returns.

Much is still to be determined in the wake of Saks’ bankruptcy this week, including any recovery for its creditors. Yet in the meantime, the episode is shaping up to be a painful lesson in the dangers of trying to catch a falling knife. The bonds that distressed-debt shops snapped up on the cheap are now being bid at less than 1 cent, according to broker runs. The hundreds of millions in extra financing they provided, which sits higher in the repayment pecking order, isn’t faring much better, changing hands around 10 cents.

Through Saks’ Chapter 11 filing, a clearer picture has emerged of a company that quickly veered off plan. Targets were missed, savings failed to materialise, cash drained at a rapid clip, and fixes meant to stop the bleeding never did. Bonds with roughly $486 million of face value held by Pentwater are now quoted at pennies on the dollar, as are about $257 million held by Bracebridge.

“This was a ticking time bomb, and the fuse was lit the day the merger was consummated,” said Mark Cohen, the former director of retail studies at Columbia Business School. “I’ve never seen anything go bad this fast; I don’t know that anyone has.”

A representative for Saks declined to comment beyond the company’s bankruptcy filing. Pentwater and Bracebridge declined to comment. Even after the staggering declines, Saks’ biggest creditors aren’t ready to throw in the towel.

In its bankruptcy filing, the company said it had secured roughly $1.75 billion in post-petition financing, including $1.5 billion from a group of senior secured bondholders betting a second act could yet salvage the retailer- and their own fortunes, possibly by converting battered debt positions into significant equity stakes. 

Some will also collect fees for helping arrange the financing. What’s more, the structure of the post-bankruptcy financing Saks has lined up could allow certain debtholders to realise better returns on the company’s outstanding bonds than where they’re currently trading, some investors suggested.

Pentwater and Bracebridge are among those putting up more money, according to people with knowledge of the matter.

Whether it’s enough to turn around a company that burned through more cash than it generated last year remains to be seen. Perennially late payments have “damaged trust” with Saks’ suppliers, the retailer said in bankruptcy documents, and while new management is working to repair those relationships, some vendors may decide to take their business elsewhere.

The company is also facing stiff objections from unsecured creditors, including Amazon.com Inc., that are seeking to block access to the new financing package. The tech giant, which previously acquired a $475 million preferred equity stake in the luxury retailer, recently called its investment in Saks “presumptively worthless.” Other equity holders including Rhone Capital and Insight Partners also suffered significant losses, separate people familiar with the situation said.

Representatives for Amazon and Insight Partners didn’t respond to requests for comment. Rhone Capital declined to comment.

Some investors who opted not to participate in the latest debtor-in-possession financing were concerned that the rescue could echo other recent misfires. They pointed to First Brands Group, the bankrupt auto-parts supplier whose lenders put up more than $1 billion post bankruptcy, only to watch their super-senior bonds crater in value as the company burned through the cash and signalled it would need even more money.

With rescue financing, “you get a lot of structuring fees, an above-market interest rate, liens on the best collateral, an equity cushion below you, with the added upside that you’re in control as the restructuring process plays out,” said Rishi Goel, the global head of distressed debt at Aegon Asset Management. 

“But it’s got to be structured correctly. The equity value below you has to be real,” Goel said. “If you’re misled, or the business is worth less than you thought or becomes worse than you thought, the value can dry up quickly.”

For now, Saks has said that stores under all its brands are open. A number of creditors say they are confident that new management, led by former Neiman Marcus Chief Executive Officer Geoffroy van Raemdonck, can steer the company through bankruptcy and, once it emerges, make its portfolio of luxury department stores profitable.

Not everyone is convinced. “The rationale for putting these two businesses together made no sense form the get go, and it’s hard to believe that these deep-pocketed masters of the universe fell for it,” Cohen said.



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Rapha launches designs for USA Cycle team

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January 16, 2026

Rapha has made a major step forward with its international ambitions, unveiling its debut collection for the USA Cycling team. The high-profile London-based performance wear specialist said the association “ushers in a new era for American cycling”. It’s also a timely move, given the US will be staging the next summer Olympic Games in 2028.

Rapha

Rapha said it will be outfitting the USA’s “most talented athletes” through to the end of 2029, “bringing its signature style and panache to the ultimate stage for the sport”.

It also sees the team partnership taking Rapha into new disciplines such as Track, BMX Racing, and BMX Freestyle. 

The debut collection draws inspiration from the 1984 Los Angeles Olympics, “a watershed moment for American cycling” when the home nation took nine medals.

Blending elements from the Stars and Stripes with a ‘Lightspeed’ pattern (on the front and back of the jerseys) is central to the designs with the latter “adding to a long tradition of using patterns to express motion and speed in sportswear”. Stripes are also an integral part of both Rapha’s design heritage and the history of cycling apparel, the brand noted.  The kit’s lighter colouring ensures suitability to hot conditions. 

The designs also incorporate a collegiate-style typeface, characteristic of American sports, accented with a stripe.

The jersey’s sleeves also feature star and stripe detailing, with the left arm showcasing the navy Rapha armband and script logo. The bib shorts contrast white striped stars and USA graphics with a navy base, designed to contour to the body and enhance the feeling of speed.

With story labels a long-standing Rapha tradition, such details are also inscribed inside of the garments with the collection featuring five unique story labels “celebrating the full range of USA Cycling disciplines”.

Of course, seeing as American interest in cycling “is at an all-time high”, with 112 million people there riding bikes in 2024, according to PeopleForBikes, replica kit and a range of merchandise will be available next month.

Rapha CEO Fran Millar, said: “This kit represents over a decade of world-class competition and innovation. We’ve left no stone unturned so that when USA Cycling athletes show up for their country, they can stand on the start line with total confidence.

“The starting pistol for LA has been fired and there is nothing more powerful for a sport than a home Games. The energy, the expectation, the history – Rapha will support American cycling to seize the opportunity with both hands.”

In November, Rapha also “marked a major milestone” by opening its first ‘Clubhouse’ in mainland China. Located on Donghu Road in the heart of Shanghai’s historic Hengshan-Fuxing Road Cultural Area, it said the new space becomes a  “purposeful commitment to one of the fastest-growing cycling communities in the world”.

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Represent names former Adidas Yeezy boss as its North America president

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January 16, 2026

British luxury streetwear brand Represent has a new country president to lead its North American ambitions. Jim Anfuso, described as a veteran of the footwear and streetwear industry with “pivotal experience” managing the high-profile Adidas Yeezy business, has joined Represent’s executive leadership team.

Jim Anfuso, Represent’s new North America president

He’s tasked with accelerating Represent’s foothold in the US, “currently the brand’s fastest-growing market”. In his new role, Anfuso will oversee all countrywide operations, including retail expansion, wholesale partnerships, and the scaling of its performance line 247. 

The role will also leverage Anfuso’s “deep experience in the footwear sector to refine Represent’s footwear strategy, a category the brand has identified as a key growth pillar”.

Represent noted the appointment “comes at a critical inflection point”, following the opening of the brand’s West Hollywood flagship and the “rapid adoption” of the 247 label.

As the brand “shifts from a cult British label to a global powerhouse”, it said Anfuso “brings a rare dual expertise in high-heat product strategy and operational infrastructure, a skillset honed during his tenure managing one of the most significant footwear partnerships in history”.

CEO Paul Spencer added: “As we enter our next phase of global expansion, the US market represents our most significant opportunity.

“Jim’s track record speaks for itself. From the minute we met… we knew he would be a great cultural fit with the wider leadership team and with [co-founder] George [Heaton] working side by side in our LA. office. Jim’s ability to navigate complex operational landscapes while maintaining brand integrity is exactly what Represent needs right now.”

George Heaton also said: “We have built Represent on ‘Relentless Effort’, and to crack the US market, we needed a leader who understands both the culture of streetwear and the mechanics of a billion-dollar operation. Jim shares our obsession with product and precision. This is a critical piece of the puzzle for the US business”

Anfuso said of his appointment: “Represent has achieved something rare: a hyper-loyal community that spans luxury, streetwear, and performance. My focus is now on operationalising that energy for the US market building the infrastructure, the team, and the strategy to take us from a ‘cult favourite’ to a dominant market leader.

“We are going to execute with the same level of precision and ambition that defined my previous work in this space.”

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