Just over a month ago, budget footwear and accessories retailer Shoe Zone issued a profit warning as trading was challenging towards the end of 2024. But on Tuesday, its results for the 12 months to the end of September showed a more nuanced picture for the business.
The company said that revenue fell to £161.3 million from £165.7 million with store revenue down to £126.1 million from £134.8 million. But digital revenue increased to £35.2 million from £30.9 million. The company had 297 stores at the period end, compared to 323 a year earlier. Of those, 185 were in its newer format which are much larger, up from 135 at the end of the previous year.
None of that helped its profit before tax figure as that fell to £10.1 million from £16.2 million. The year-on-year reduction was “primarily due to the challenging second-half trading environment, as a result of unseasonal weather conditions, particularly in peak summer, higher container prices, higher energy costs, higher depreciation charges due to increased capital expenditure, and higher wage costs due to the National Living Wage increase”.
But product margins increased to 62.8% from 62.3%, due to a favourable sterling to dollar exchange rate, partially offset by the container price increases and a higher mix of lower-margin branded product.
Statutory gross profit fell by £5.7 million to £35.2 million, with a gross profit margin of 21.8%, down from 24.7%. The reduction “reflects the sales decrease and increases in the depreciation charged and higher digital sales-related costs, offset by a reduction in store occupancy costs, due to lower store numbers, and lower stock purchases”.
However, the company said it had “a good year”, although it was “essentially split into two halves”.
What that means is that the first six months saw “strong and consistent trading, followed by disappointing store sales, due to the weakening of consumer confidence” and the less-than-impressive summer weather.
Yet the key back-to-school trading period in the second half “was positive, and ahead of the previous year, as were digital sales, which had strong growth for the full period”.
Total revenue dropped 2.7% but given that it was trading out of 26 fewer stores that’s not surprising. Digital revenues increased by 13.9%, “driven by an increase in conversion, due to the introduction of free next-day delivery on all shoezone.com orders and strong Amazon sales. We continue to invest in our digital infrastructure and the addition of two automated bagging machines has significantly improved throughput and productivity”.
The company has also been continuing to invest heavily in its store refit and relocation programme, which should complete by the end of 2026, at which point its capital expenditure “will reduce significantly, and we will continue to drive our digital strategy on the back of these solid digital results”.
Shoe Zone also expects product margin levels to start to increase in the second half of the current financial year as container prices start to stabilise and reduce post-Chinese New Year. It said its buying and shipping teams “are doing an exceptional job of managing the direct-from-factory supply chain, which is still volatile, and we are confident we are performing better than the market average”.
That’s despite the aforementioned profit warning in December when it said the first two months of the new financial year and the first half of December saw “very challenging trading conditions, principally a weakening of consumer confidence and unseasonal weather, both of which have decreased revenue and profit”.
LVMH has no plans to relocate the luxury conglomerate, said Bernard Arnault, its billionaire chief executive officer, after remarks he made critical of France drew a backlash at home.
“I’ve obviously never said we would relocate the LVMH group,” Arnault said in a post on the company’s X account Friday. When he voiced discontent with France at an earnings presentation on Tuesday he only wanted to sound an alarm over tax measures that he deems will be “counter productive,” he added.
“What I said is that the tax measures that are being considered are an incentive to relocate, since they’re a tax on Made in France,” he said.
Arnault said on Tuesday that plans to raise corporate taxes in France are “a great idea to encourage people to relocate,” contrasting the atmosphere in his native country to the optimism he sees in the US following Donald Trump’s election as president.
“There’s a different mood” between the two countries, the billionaire told reporters on the sidelines of LVMH’s annual results, at one point comparing his return to France to a cold shower.
In an interview on RTL radio Friday, Sophie Binet, leader of the French union CGT, likened comments like Arnault’s to a sign that “the rats are leaving the ship.”
Arnault, in his post on Friday, said LVMH is “proud to employ directly and indirectly some 200,000 people in France.”
Iceberg Jeans, the iconic streetwear line by Italian label Iceberg, is back. Under creative director James Long, the Iceberg Jeans line embodies a vibrant state of mind: fun, inclusive, contemporary, and accessible. Besides denim, the new collection includes outerwear, knitwear, tailored items, casual wear and accessories.
“I’ve always wanted to give Iceberg Jeans a new lease of life,” said Long, the creative director at Iceberg. “The brand has a unique energy, and like everything that Iceberg represents, it’s always about looking to the future with optimism. I love these designs, and I hope that others too will appreciate them and make them part of their everyday lives.”
Iceberg Jeans debuted in 1986, soon emerging as a bold brand bringing Italian design, with its mix of playfulness and wearability, to the world. Its success was fuelled by word of mouth, and by campaigns that have become pop culture icons, featuring celebrities such as Lil’ Kim and Paris Hilton. The new collection refreshes the positive essence of Iceberg Jeans’s heritage while looking to the future. The Iceberg Jeans Fall 2025 collection will be available at selected wholesale partners, Iceberg stores and online from June 2025.
Experimentation and innovation were the name of the game on the last day of Paris Haute Couture Week. Emerging couturiers took centre stage on Thursday, like Peet Dullaert, 35, from the Netherlands, and Miss Sohee, 28, from Korea. The latter staged her maiden couture week show, as a guest on the event’s official calendar. Dullaert and Miss Sohee unveiled Spring/Summer 2025 collections characterised by contrasting styles.
Dullaert, a Paris-based Dutch designer, showed for the first time at Paris Haute Couture Week exactly a year ago. In his third Parisian show, he juxtaposed glamourous looks with more everyday ones, like the suits and trousers sets or the black tweed maxi coat, worn back-to-front with the cuffs, pockets and buttons at the rear, which could morph into an evening dress if needed.
Dullaert’s couture looks were made from bodysuits and playsuits in tight stretch fabric, on which he added long, sheer flared skirts decorated with geometric patterns embroidered with gems, or made with swathes of silk draped directly on the body, giving the models real freedom of movement. The feeling of freedom was heightened by the use of a wrinkled high-performance fabric developed by the label.
Other looks were covered with thin tassels lined with sequins, or with crystals, with draped white and black tulle, taffeta and other glimmering silks. Dullaert’s looks were characterised by flowing volumes and silhouettes, but he didn’t shy away from intervening decisively in the garments’ construction, for example baring a shoulder or cutting his dresses with long slits along the legs.
The couture show by Miss Sohee, real name Sohee Park, was eagerly awaited. The London-based Korean designer showed twice before in Paris, and was a hit on the Milanese runways in February 2022, backed by Dolce & Gabbana. She pulled out all the stops in Paris, immersing her guests in a magical universe where eras and bold silhouettes mixed spectacularly, showcased inside the gilded halls and under the majestic chandeliers of the Pozzo di Borgo palace.
Miss Sohee’s ladies seemed to be ready for a grand ball with their shimmering, vibrantly coloured crinoline dresses, satin sheath dresses glittering with pearls, and statement coats whose long trains were ornamented with embroidered bucolic scenes, like a golden peacock or floral branches, rich in crystals and sequins. Looks worthy of the Venice Carnival.
Botticelli’s Venus seemed to have inspired Miss Sohee, scallops and seashells being among the key elements in her collection. A large shell rose like a fan at the back of a corset which extended into a long, faded-pink silk skirt. Elsewhere, shells encased the hips in two short bustier dresses in python and crocodile-effect leather, or added length to a bustier entirely decorated with gems that was sewn onto a tulle top dotted with mother-of-pearl drops.
Shells embroidered in small patterns featured on a silk duchesse dress, and more shells in silver pleated fabric turned into a micro hooded jacket over a Fantômas-style black velvet jumpsuit, with a double row of white pearls draped around the waist.
Nothing seemed too precious and extravagant for Miss Sohee’s ladies, who also wore more contemporary outfits consisting of lace jumpsuits, miniskirts and laced thigh-high boots. Park founded her label in 2020, after studying at Central Saint Martins in London, and her customers include scores of celebrities, among them names like Cardi B. and Bella Hadid.