Mexican American designer Willy Chavarria climaxed his sensational Paris debut on Friday evening by playing a recording of Bishop Mariann Edgar Budde’s sermon calling for “compassion” for the LGTBIQ+ community from President Donald Trump.

In very much the most anticipated show of the Paris menswear season, Chavarria won immense applause from the packed audience inside the American Cathedral of Paris on Avenue George V. Like the Bishop of Washington, the Paris cathedral is Episcopalian.
 
A fall/winter 2025 collection very much in the Chavarria DNA – Latino and Hispanic heroes and heroines, many pals or company staffers, others discovered in three days of savage casting in Paris.

Though a more elevated version of Willy’s style, finely finished tailoring from Italian factories seen in some fab’ interpretations of the Latin Zoot suit, dandy dressing and gangster sportswear.
 
“It’s an honor to be in Paris, where so many legendary designers have shown. But I feel like I am ready for that. The message of human dignity and equality and the importance of us coming together to preserve our rights as immigrants, as LGBT people, as women has never been more important… Our community is very much under attack now,” explained Willy.
 
Adding that he had been in tears when he heard the bishop’s speech, and that all of his cast had “somehow been through the experiences,” that Bishop Buddle had referenced.
 
Chavarria’s backdrop for this show a red floral shrine, with a saint perched inside a wooden box as its centerpiece. And the clothes were a cunning blend of the sacred and the profane, with a big dollop of raw sexuality.
 
His women sizzled in pencil skirts, strict jackets and high heels. One wore a sinful red leotard that red – ‘Diablo’.

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His men powered along in wide-shouldered blazers, fluttering pants and huge collared shirts. Chavarria, who grew up in a family of poor Mexican immigrant farm workers in the central California Valley, also played on Tex Mex moods – with cowboy hats finished with flowers. Willy also evoked Paris DNA with a couple of dudes in oversized Chanel tweed bouclé four-pocket jackets.
 
And in a week where the President of the United States has attempted to declare by executive order that there are only two sexes, it was tremendously refreshing to see the great transgender DJ Honey Dijon strut her stuff in a fiery red denim look. Taking her latest stand for trans rights.
 
Ending with a series of sporting leather jerkins and elongated soccer shorts from his collab’ with Adidas worn by some hunky muchachos their rippling muscles almost ablaze with tattoos.
 
Very much the show of Paris menswear so far, and a timely reminder of fashion’s duty to do more than just make clothes.
 
“I feel I have something very specific to say that is missing. So, I am happy to bring it to Paris. As something is missing in fashion in general. A willingness to take risks, and to be on the right side of history,” concluded Willy.
 
Always speaking quietly at the sacristy of the cathedral, attired in a black T-shirt that read: “How we love is who we are.”