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Viktor & Rolf re-sign with OTB for next five years

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February 3, 2025

The duo of Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have renewed their contracts for a further five years as the creative directors of the fashion house they founded.
 
The designers and OTB Group – the main holding company of Italian fashion entrepreneur Renzo Rosso, which controls the Dutch fashion house – broke the news in a joint statement released on Monday.
 

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren – OTB Group

 
Based in Amsterdam, Viktor & Rolf founded their Haute Couture maison in 1993. They became part of the OTB Group in 2008.
 
“Viktor and Rolf are two unique voices in the world of international fashion, couturiers who have revolutionized the very concept of Haute Couture, and everything they do is art. I am very happy to continue the collaboration with them, their talent will continue to inspire and amaze the fashion world,” said Rosso, Chairman and founder of the OTB Group.

Added Horsting and Snoeren: “Within an ever-changing fashion landscape of brands and designers, we are proud to continue our singular artistic path of 30 plus years.”
 
Despite reports of occasional friction between the duo and the OTB Group due to designers’ hyper conceptual approach, the renewal was not unexpected. However, it comes in the wake of the departure from the OTB Group’s most acclaimed designer John Galliano, who left Maison Margiela after almost a decade in the autumn. Departing despite staging the most acclaimed couture show in fashion this past decade in January 2024.
 
With Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, their maison became a one-of-a-kind success in the world of Haute Couture, creating collections that represent various nuances and forms of their artistic expression.
 
In the release, OTB Group lauded the duo’s constant exploration of “the borderland between art and fashion, constantly reinventing and reshaping the very concept of Haute Couture.”
 
Their memorable collections include Haute Couture Spring Summer 2019 – Fashion Statements, entirely made of colored tulle; Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 – Surreal Shoulder, characterized by extreme, distorted, and elongated silhouettes. While Haute Couture Spring Summer 2023 – Late Stage Capitalism Waltz, defied the laws of gravity with surrealist garments worn upside down, sideways, perpendicularly, and away from the body; and Haute Couture Spring Summer 2024 – Scissorhands, was a collection born to explore the creative and decorative possibilities of a pair of tailor’s scissors.
 
While with OTB, Viktor & Rolf have also developed women’s collections of demi-couture inspiration; bridalwear with Viktor & Rolf Marriage; and eyewear collections with Viktor & Rolf Vision.
 
The duo have also built a highly successful fragrance business with a licensing agreement with L’Oréal Luxe, boasting such as worldwide bestsellers as Flowerbomb, Spicebomb and Good Fortune.
 
The vision and the artistic creations of Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have been celebrated in countless international exhibitions, including “Camp: Notes of Fashion” at the MET Museum, “Viktor&Rolf Fashion Artists” at the Kunsthal in Rotterdam, “Viktor&Rolf: MetaFashion!” at the Sea World Culture and Arts Center in Shenzhen,” Viktor&Rolf par Viktor&Rolf : Première Décennie” at the Musée de la Mode et du Textile, “ The House of Viktor&Rolf” at the Barbican Art Gallery, and “Viktor&Rolf: Fashion Artists” at the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne.
 
On the occasion of the brand’s 30th anniversary, one hundred of their most iconic pieces were showcased in the exhibition “Viktor&Rolf: Fashion Statements” at the Kunsthalle in Munich. Some of their dresses were also selected as the protagonists and symbols of the exhibition “Memorabile. Ipermoda.” still ongoing at the MAXXI National Museum of 21st Century Arts in Rome, in collaboration with the National Chamber of Italian Fashion.
 
 
 
 

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Bruno Sialelli joins Phoebe Philo as head of ready-to-wear design

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Nicola Mira

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February 3, 2025

Phoebe Philo has beefed up its design team by hiring Bruno Sialelli. The label by the iconic British designer, who had long been in charge of style at LVMH-owned Céline, launched online in October 2023 and seems to be progressing well, having recently tapped Sialelli, Lanvin’s former creative director, as head of design for its ready-to-wear collections.

Bruno Sialelli at his last show for Lanvin, in March 2023 – © ImaxTree

“I am pleased to announce that I am now head of design ready-to-wear at Phoebe Philo,” Sialelli announced in a rather understated way on social media. The French designer graduated from the Studio Berçot in 2010, and has so far had a strong career with various luxury labels, between menswear and women’s ready-to-wear.

Prior to being appointed creative director of Lanvin in 2019, a post he held until April 2023, Sialelli was head of menswear design at Loewe, where he worked with Jonathan Anderson. He had previously worked at Paco Rabanne, Acne Studios and Balenciaga, mostly in womenswear.

After a nearly six-year absence, Philo made a much-publicised come-back in late 2023, commercialising her own label initially only online, then via some of the world’s top fashion retailers, each time to great acclaim. She kickstarted her label’s project in September 2020, setting it up together with her husband, real-estate entrepreneur Maximilian Wigram. LVMH has bought a stake of just under 30% in Phoebe Philo.

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Ferragamo and Marco Gobbetti to part ways next month

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February 3, 2025

Salvatore Ferragamo announced late on Monday that its CEO, the ex-Burberry chief Marco Gobbetti, is to step down from the helm of the company and the board by “mutual agreement”.

Marco Gobbetti

The company said the board met on Monday under the chairmanship of Leonardo Ferragamo and along with Gobbetti, agreed “to mutually terminate their employment and directorship relationships, effective as of the date of approval of the draft financial statements for the year 2024, March 6 2025”.

The chairman thanked Gobbetti for setting up and developing “a significant brand renewal and evolution activity, as well as significant product innovation and brand positioning, while also carrying out important work on the organisational evolution of the company and the group, which is the basis for continuing the renewal strategy”.

There’s no successor waiting in the wings and the Italian firm has begun “the process of selecting a candidate for the position of CEO who will be in charge of continuing the activities of brand renewal and heritage enhancement in order to strengthen brand evolution”.

Between the CEO’s departure date next month and the arrival of the new chief executive, whenever that is, the chairman will be granted executive powers. He “will propose a distribution of proxies and will be supported by a transition chairman advisory committee composed of experts with consolidated experience in the sector of business who have already worked in top management roles within the company”. 

That select group will include James Ferragamo, Ernesto Greco and Michele Norsa (who will take on the role of special chairman advisor).

Norsa was the longstanding CEO of the business earlier this century and left the role before returning after a few years as it navigated the problems caused by the pandemic. He left again just ahead of Gobbetti’s arrival.

Gobbetti joined in January 2022, after having led Burberry as successor to Christopher Bailey and initialising its ultra-luxury strategy.

Ferragamo’s sales grew in 2022 but a decline started in 2023 and its sales and profits continued to fall during 2024.

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Trade show Pitti Filati 96 visited by 2,850 buyers, UK and US attendance rises

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February 3, 2025

Despite the far from positive trend the yarn spinning sector is experiencing, with a 6.2% slump expected in 2024, Italian producers are staying positive, their upbeat attitude evident at the Pitti Filati 96 trade show. The event was held in Florence on January 28-30 at the Fortezza da Basso venue, gathering together 116 exhibitors and 2,850 buyers, 1,050 of whom came from 50 countries outside Italy.
 

Pitti Filati 96

Attendance was up from the UK, the USA, Russia, Portugal and Belgium, while the number for buyers from Switzerland, Turkey and China posted a slight decrease. In absolute terms, France topped the ranking, followed by the UK, the USA, Germany, Spain, Switzerland, Turkey, Japan, China, Russia, Portugal, and Belgium.
 
“Once again, Pitti Filati has reaffirmed its role as the industry’s benchmark event. It is the only platform that offers all levels of the supply chain the highest standards of research and creativity in the world of yarns,” said Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of show organiser Pitti Immagine. “At the Fortezza, with the new collections and company innovations, we witnessed the exceptional adaptability that the yarn manufacturing sector is deploying to meet market demands and support its evolution. These three days of intense business revealed a widespread sense of confidence, with industry professionals anticipating a trend reversal in fashion by Spring/Summer 2026 – early signs of which were already visible in this presentation cycle,” he added.

“These three days were filled with energy and creative interaction for all industry professionals. It was an essential and irreplaceable opportunity for dialogue, a mutual push towards research and creativity across all phases of knitwear production,” said Agostino Poletto, managing director of Pitti Immagine.

“The same sentiment was echoed in the feedback we gathered from buyers – including design teams from the most prestigious Italian and international fashion brands – as well as from exhibitors at the Fortezza. A major contribution in this direction came from the ‘Spazio Ricerca – Body of Light’ section curated by Angelo Figus, Carrie Hollands, and Manuela Sandroni – once again an unmissable destination for insights into future trends. Other pivotal contributions came from the ‘CustomEasy’ and ‘KnitClub’ sections, with their in-depth exploration of customisation and knitting techniques. Likewise, the ‘Vintage Selection’ section – the show within the show dedicated to vintage fashion – proved to be an endless source of inspiration for the design teams attending [Pitti] Filati,” added Poletto.

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