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Unilever sees mixed results for prestige beauty, closes in on Wild acquisition

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February 13, 2025

Unilever has filed its Q4 and full-year results and said that its underlying sales growth (USG) was 4.2%. But turnover on a reported basis was up only 1.9% at €60.8 billion.

Hourglass

Underlying operating profit jumped 12.6% to €11.2 billion, while reported operating profit was actually down 3.7% at €9.4 billion. For the fourth quarter USG increased 4% while turnover dipped 0.1% to €14.2 billion.

The news comes as it has also emerged that the company is close to announcing the purchase of plastics-free premium cosmetics brand Wild.

The six-year-old brand could be acquired from its founders and early-stage investors in a £230 million deal, which would be one of the firm’s most significant acquisitions for a while.

Wild sells refillable personal care products on a DTC basis with its most recent account (for 2023) showing sales up 77% at almost £47 million. 

Back with Unilever’s results, the underlying and reported figures differ as the company continues to reshape its business, most particularly it’s demerging its giant Ice Cream operations with a separate stock exchange listing for them.

Looking specifically at the two divisions relevant to us — Beauty & Wellbeing and Personal Care — the former saw USG up 6.5% with reported turnover up 5.5% at €13.2 billion. The latter increased USG by 5.2%, but fell 1.5% on a reported basis to €13.6 billion. The two divisions account for 22% of group turnover each. 

Beauty & Wellbeing delivered a strong full-year performance, with the underlying sales rise divided into a volume increase of 5.1% and price rises accounting for 1.3%. Volume growth was broad-based with strong performances from its Power Brands including Sunsilk, Dove, Vaseline, Ponds, Liquid I.V. and Nutrafol. 

In Q4, Beauty & Wellbeing grew 5.2% with a 3.9% volume uplift.

The full-year performance reflects the ongoing premiumisation of its core Hair Care and Skin Care portfolio and the continued strength of its Prestige Beauty and Wellbeing portfolio, which combined, accounted for around 30% of Beauty & Wellbeing’s turnover.

That said, Prestige Beauty grew in ‘only’ mid-single-digits reflecting a slowdown in the US beauty market. Hourglass and Tatcha grew in double-digits while other brands including Paula’s Choice delivered low growth. 

During the year, it completed the acquisition of K18, a premium biotech hair care brand, which grew in double-digits and will be included in underlying sales growth from February 2025.

Underlying operating margin improved 70bps with strong gross margin improvement partially reinvested in increased brand and marketing investment.

In Personal Care, Dove, which makes up 40% of the division’s turnover, grew in high-single-digits with the successful launches of a new range of whole-body deodorants and a serum shower collection, using active face care ingredients in body wash formats. 

Skin Cleansing grew in low-single-digits with volume and price rises. Good growth in Dove was partially offset by declines in Lifebuoy and Lux, driven by challenges in Indonesia, China, and India.

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Fashion

Steven Madden to buy UK-based luxury shoe brand Kurt Geiger in $360 million deal

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February 13, 2025

Shoe designer Steven Madden said on Thursday it would buy UK-based luxury brand Kurt Geiger in an all-cash deal valued at GBP289 million ($360.09 million), expanding its presence in international markets.

The New York-based owner of brands such as Dolce Vita and Betsey Johnson will buy the company from private equity firm Cinven.

Kurt Geiger’s brand portfolio includes KG Kurt Geiger and Carvela. It operates in luxury and premium department stores in the UK such as Harrods and Selfridges.

Steven Madden plans to fund the transaction, which is expected to close in the second quarter, with a combination of cash on hand and debt.

Kurt Geiger had an estimated revenue of about GBP400 million for the 12 months ended February 1, 2025, the companies said.

Steven Madden is expected to post 2024 revenue of $2.25 billion, according to data compiled by LSEG, when it reports fourth-quarter results on February 26.

The company has outlined plans to shift product sourcing out of China to other countries after Donald Trump’s election as U.S. president for a second term.
 

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Ferrari Group IPO priced at €8.6, shares up almost 5% in Amsterdam debut

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February 13, 2025

Luxury logistics company Ferrari Group said on Thursday it priced its initial public offering at €8.60 per share, just above the midpoint of its indicative price range.

Ferrari Group’s shares were up almost 5% in early trading on its debut on the Amsterdam bourse.

The IPO price gave the company an initial market capitalisation of €785 million ($818 million).

The founding family sold 25% of existing shares in the company, with books covered throughout the range on the full deal size, a bookrunner had said last week.

The group was founded in 1959 and focuses on shipping luxury goods such as high-end watches and jewellery.
 

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Prada appoints Silvia Onofri as CEO of Miu Miu brand

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February 13, 2025

Prada has appointed Silvia Onofri as Chief Executive Officer of its Miu Miu brand, the Italian luxury group said on Thursday.

Miu Miu – Spring/Summer 2025 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Onofri, former president of outerwear brand Napapijri, with previous executive roles at Bulgari and Bally, will take her new role starting on February 26.

Former Miu Miu CEO Benedetta Petruzzo left the label in September to join Christian Dior Couture.

Miu Miu, the second largest brand in the Prada Group, recorded strong growth in 2024, with sales almost doubling year-on-year in January-September.

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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