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Unilever sees mixed results for prestige beauty, closes in on Wild acquisition

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February 13, 2025

Unilever has filed its Q4 and full-year results and said that its underlying sales growth (USG) was 4.2%. But turnover on a reported basis was up only 1.9% at €60.8 billion.

Hourglass

Underlying operating profit jumped 12.6% to €11.2 billion, while reported operating profit was actually down 3.7% at €9.4 billion. For the fourth quarter USG increased 4% while turnover dipped 0.1% to €14.2 billion.

The news comes as it has also emerged that the company is close to announcing the purchase of plastics-free premium cosmetics brand Wild.

The six-year-old brand could be acquired from its founders and early-stage investors in a £230 million deal, which would be one of the firm’s most significant acquisitions for a while.

Wild sells refillable personal care products on a DTC basis with its most recent account (for 2023) showing sales up 77% at almost £47 million. 

Back with Unilever’s results, the underlying and reported figures differ as the company continues to reshape its business, most particularly it’s demerging its giant Ice Cream operations with a separate stock exchange listing for them.

Looking specifically at the two divisions relevant to us — Beauty & Wellbeing and Personal Care — the former saw USG up 6.5% with reported turnover up 5.5% at €13.2 billion. The latter increased USG by 5.2%, but fell 1.5% on a reported basis to €13.6 billion. The two divisions account for 22% of group turnover each. 

Beauty & Wellbeing delivered a strong full-year performance, with the underlying sales rise divided into a volume increase of 5.1% and price rises accounting for 1.3%. Volume growth was broad-based with strong performances from its Power Brands including Sunsilk, Dove, Vaseline, Ponds, Liquid I.V. and Nutrafol. 

In Q4, Beauty & Wellbeing grew 5.2% with a 3.9% volume uplift.

The full-year performance reflects the ongoing premiumisation of its core Hair Care and Skin Care portfolio and the continued strength of its Prestige Beauty and Wellbeing portfolio, which combined, accounted for around 30% of Beauty & Wellbeing’s turnover.

That said, Prestige Beauty grew in ‘only’ mid-single-digits reflecting a slowdown in the US beauty market. Hourglass and Tatcha grew in double-digits while other brands including Paula’s Choice delivered low growth. 

During the year, it completed the acquisition of K18, a premium biotech hair care brand, which grew in double-digits and will be included in underlying sales growth from February 2025.

Underlying operating margin improved 70bps with strong gross margin improvement partially reinvested in increased brand and marketing investment.

In Personal Care, Dove, which makes up 40% of the division’s turnover, grew in high-single-digits with the successful launches of a new range of whole-body deodorants and a serum shower collection, using active face care ingredients in body wash formats. 

Skin Cleansing grew in low-single-digits with volume and price rises. Good growth in Dove was partially offset by declines in Lifebuoy and Lux, driven by challenges in Indonesia, China, and India.

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Fashion

London Fashion Week Shop to open on Regent Street

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February 13, 2025

The British Fashion Council (BFC) is to open The London Fashion Week Shop on Regent Street from 22-24 February “to provide crucial commercial support for designers” as part of its wider set of events linked to London Fashion Week. 

Regent Street

Curated by fashion buying big names Ida Petersson and Lewis Bloyce, the “archive and discovery space” will see consumers shopping an exclusive archive collection from some of LFW’s equally big names. They include 16Arlington, Ahluwalia, Bianca Saunders, Completedworks, Conner Ives, Helen Kirkum, Johanna Parv and Saul Nash.

They can also sign up to attend a number of exclusive events such as panel discussions, workshops and  piercings by Aurum London.

It’s part of the City Wide Celebration (CWC), the programme of events and promotions open to the public during and after LFW, which take place across the capital’s premier shopping destinations — Regent Street, Oxford Street, Soho and Covent Garden. 

In recent seasons, that has seen the BFC ‘opening up’ fashion week and encouraging more participation by the end user of fashion firms’ products — the consumer. 

The BFC said it’s “committed to opening up LFW to a new audience, providing wider support to the creative community”.

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Kate Winslet stars in rom com-themed Burberry campaign

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February 13, 2025

Burberry is continuing its campaign theme ‘It’s always Burberry weather’ that focuses on its Britishness and its outerwear strength, and the latest edition for summer 2025 has an extra romantic comedy theme with the additional title ‘London in Love’.

 

And there’s no shortage of celebrity names continuing to sign up to appear in its campaigns with Hollywood big-hitter Kate Winslet the star this time, along with Richard E Grant and a slew of other famous faces.

The use of movie stars makes sense given that for the season, Burberry is releasing a series of seven films inspired by late 1990s, early 2000s British rom coms, which focus on the everyday romances of ordinary Londoners. 

“A Burberry love story comes to life through the cinematic lens of this campaign. It’s about humour, optimism and, of course, the unpredictability of our great British weather,” the brand’s creative chief Daniel Lee (who also creatively directed the campaign) said.

“With endearingly familiar plot lines and playful dialogue, an A-list cast stars in this urban fairytale of love, life and the rain,” Burberry explained.

Oscar-winner Winslet is joined by Grant alongside Aimee Lou Wood, Chen Kun, Jodie Turner-Smith, Micheal Ward, Nicholas Hoult, and Son Sukku, while models David Gandy, Liu Wen and Naomi Campbell also appear – “with a special guest appearance (and strictly non-speaking role) by a chivalrous Burberry Knight in shining armour”.

 

As we’ve seen from other recent campaigns, this one focuses heavily on Burberry’s star pieces and celebrates the “long-standing history of the trench coat and the reinvention of this iconic style for summer”. 

The films “meld romantic tropes with the ever-inclement British weather. They offer a rain-soaked segue into the brand’s innovative approach to all-weather expertise, in which heritage and seasonal trench coats feature alongside expressive new silhouettes”.

To go with the cinematic campaign, Burberry is launching an “all-encompassing” celebration including window displays and in-store activations to mark it out as what CEO Josh Schulman said is the “ultimate trench and rainwear destination”.

Those window and store activations are curated to “reflect the joyful essence of summertime in London. Delicate clusters of wisteria and pastel blossoms adorn the stores, mirroring the way they bloom on mews and cascade over archways throughout the city. Floral displays are complemented by lime-washed cladding across the space, drawing from London’s historic architecture while reflecting the shades and textures seen across the collection”.

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Lila Moss is new DKNY global face, fronts spring campaign

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February 13, 2025

DKNY has unveiled British model Lila Moss as the new global face of the brand, starting with its SS25 campaign that’s a continuation of its New York Stories theme.

DKNY

The label this time shifts the focus from literature to cinema, “drawing inspiration from iconic movies that showcase New York City as a vibrant backdrop”.

The campaign features both the city and Moss as its main characters, “with the cinematic atmosphere allowing Lila to seamlessly embody different roles”.

Moss recently moved to NYC and the company said she “already shows the self-assurance of a local whose personal style becomes a calling card. In DKNY, she finds her own self in the city”.

Her appearance in the campaign comes at a time when her mother Kate Moss stars in the Donna Karan New York SS25 campaign – “a mother-daughter connection between these two brands that echoes DKNY’s story of origin, when Donna Karan drew inspiration from her daughter for the line’s cool, youthful attitude”.

Jeff Goldfarb, executive VP at G-III Apparel Group, said the campaign “further strengthens our commitment to expanding DKNY’s global presence”.

The images were shot by Mikael Jansson as Moss “gives off main character energy in looks that are youthful yet elevated, and feature the ‘DKNY est. 1989 collection, which revisits iconic pieces from the DKNY archive and reinterprets them in a contemporary way”.

Jacki Bouza, SVP of Global Marketing and Communications at G-III, said that the campaign “represents a pivotal moment, highlighting the brand’s unwavering commitment to creativity, authenticity, and accessibility”.

It debuts on Thursday through a diverse media mix, including social, digital, premium outdoor, select print and influencer partnerships.

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