Despite the far from positive trend the yarn spinning sector is experiencing, with a 6.2% slump expected in 2024, Italian producers are staying positive, their upbeat attitude evident at the Pitti Filati 96 trade show. The event was held in Florence on January 28-30 at the Fortezza da Basso venue, gathering together 116 exhibitors and 2,850 buyers, 1,050 of whom came from 50 countries outside Italy.
Attendance was up from the UK, the USA, Russia, Portugal and Belgium, while the number for buyers from Switzerland, Turkey and China posted a slight decrease. In absolute terms, France topped the ranking, followed by the UK, the USA, Germany, Spain, Switzerland, Turkey, Japan, China, Russia, Portugal, and Belgium.
“Once again, Pitti Filati has reaffirmed its role as the industry’s benchmark event. It is the only platform that offers all levels of the supply chain the highest standards of research and creativity in the world of yarns,” said Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of show organiser Pitti Immagine. “At the Fortezza, with the new collections and company innovations, we witnessed the exceptional adaptability that the yarn manufacturing sector is deploying to meet market demands and support its evolution. These three days of intense business revealed a widespread sense of confidence, with industry professionals anticipating a trend reversal in fashion by Spring/Summer 2026 – early signs of which were already visible in this presentation cycle,” he added.
“These three days were filled with energy and creative interaction for all industry professionals. It was an essential and irreplaceable opportunity for dialogue, a mutual push towards research and creativity across all phases of knitwear production,” said Agostino Poletto, managing director of Pitti Immagine.
“The same sentiment was echoed in the feedback we gathered from buyers – including design teams from the most prestigious Italian and international fashion brands – as well as from exhibitors at the Fortezza. A major contribution in this direction came from the ‘Spazio Ricerca – Body of Light’ section curated by Angelo Figus, Carrie Hollands, and Manuela Sandroni – once again an unmissable destination for insights into future trends. Other pivotal contributions came from the ‘CustomEasy’ and ‘KnitClub’ sections, with their in-depth exploration of customisation and knitting techniques. Likewise, the ‘Vintage Selection’ section – the show within the show dedicated to vintage fashion – proved to be an endless source of inspiration for the design teams attending [Pitti] Filati,” added Poletto.
Fast fashion retailer Shein‘s plans to list in London face a challenge from a group campaigning against forced labour in China, which said on Monday it would apply for a judicial review of the IPO if Britain’s regulator approves the flotation.
The group, Stop Uyghur Genocide, claims the retailer’s supply chain in China includes cotton produced by Uyghur forced labour. Its plan to apply for a judicial review could increase pressure on Britain’s Financial Conduct Authority, though it faces a high bar to succeed.
The FCA said it cannot comment on potential listings. Shein said it strictly prohibits forced labour in its supply chain globally. The online retailer aims to list in London in the first half of this year if it gains regulatory approvals, two sources with direct knowledge told Reuters last month.
In a similar challenge to an IPO in 2023, environmental law group ClientEarth applied for a judicial review after the FCA approved oil producer Ithaca Energy‘s flotation, but the High Court denied the application saying it could not be proved the FCA had failed to disclose material risks.
The U.S. government and rights groups say Uyghur minority people are subject to abuses including forced labour in internment camps set up by the Chinese government in the Xinjiang region. China denies any abuses.
Xinjiang produces around 80% of China’s cotton and accounts for a fifth of global cotton production, exposing most global apparel retailers and brands to this risk.
In written evidence to UK lawmakers, Shein said it only allows cotton from approved regions, which do not include China, for its products sold in the U.S., its biggest market, as part of its compliance with the U.S. Uyghur Forced Labour Prevention Act (UFLPA), which prohibits the import of products made in Xinjiang or made by designated banned companies.
Shein did not specify whether its restrictions on cotton sources applied to products sold in other markets, such as the UK. The retailer does not prohibit the use of Chinese cotton in its products where such use would not breach relevant laws and regulations, it added.
Administrators of bankrupt Signa Prime Selection AG are preparing to launch the sale of the Vienna Park Hyatt and adjoining luxury retail premises, including Prada’s flagship store, according to people familiar with the matter.
Real estate investment bank Eastdil Secured LLC has been appointed to offer the properties that are expected to attract bids in the region of €350 million ($361 million) to €370 million, two people said, asking not to be identified as the process is not yet public. The 146-room hotel accounts for roughly half of that price tag, with the luxury stores adjacent to another Signa asset, the so-called Golden Quarter, making up the other, they said.
The properties have about €155 million of debt secured against them from German pension fund Bayerische Versorgungskammer, one of the people said. Signa had valued the building at €422 million in a 2022 presentation to investors seen by Bloomberg.
Representatives for Signa Prime’s insolvency administrator and Eastdil declined to comment.
The launch of the sale process will coincide with the annual Mipim property conference in the second week of March, an annual gathering of real estate investors in Cannes attended by Signa founder Rene Benko in the past. It comes after a spate of recent Signa sales including the Upper West tower in Berlin and the Viennese palais that houses Austria’s Constitutional Court.
The unraveling of Benko’s Austrian property empire has provided a rare source of high-profile deals at a time when Europe’s real estate markets grapple with higher interest rates. Would-be sellers have been reluctant to offer properties for sale after the spike in borrowing costs impacted valuations, preferring to cling on and hope for a recovery rather than crystallizing losses.
Hotels have been a rare bright spot amid the commercial real estate gloom, with the management agreements on which they typically operate helping to shield landlords from inflation. That’s because room rates can adjust immediately to higher costs in contrast to offices or stores that are typically held on long-term leases with fixed rents.
Hyatt Hotels Corp. has a long-term management agreement for the property, offering some of Vienna’s priciest accommodation. The 820 square meter (8,826 square feet) Royal Penthouse Suite is available for $13,200 per night, including taxes, according to a listing on Expedia.
Benko is in pre-trial detention as prosecutors investigate suspected fraud. He has denied wrongdoing.
Signa Prime’s administrators have been attempting to claw back cash for creditors through property sales, as well as seeking damages and repayments from former managers and business partners. Asset sales have been complicated by the company’s complex debt structure.
L’Oréal Groupe announced on Monday the appointment of Christina (Tina) Fair as president of the consumer products division (CPD) for the North America Zone.
Fair succeeds Nathalie Gerschtein, who is stepping down to pursue new opportunities outside L’Oréal Groupe.
“I’m thrilled that Tina will now be taking the helm of our Consumer Products Division and our extraordinary portfolio of Consumer Division beauty brands, including L’Oréal Paris, Maybelline New York, Garnier, Essie, and NYX Professional Makeup,” said David Greenberg, CEO of L’Oréal USA and president of the North America Zone, who Fair will report to, alongside Alexis Perakis-Valat, president of the consumer products division for L’Oréal Groupe.
“I have seen Tina step change every business she has run as we have witnessed with the dermatological beauty division under Tina’s leadership. Her strategic vision, bold decision-making, and entrepreneurial mindset position her and the division for continued success.”
Fair joined L’Oréal in 2008 and has held leadership roles within the U.S. consumer products division, including senior marketing positions with Garnier and Maybelline New York. In 2015, she led global marketing for SkinCeuticals before becoming U.S. general manager for the brand.
Most recently, since 2020, Fair has served as president of L’Oréal Dermatological Beauty (LDB) in the North America Zone. Under her leadership, LDB became the group’s third-largest U.S. division, with brands like CeraVe, La Roche-Posay, SkinCeuticals, Skinbetter Science, and Vichy achieving significant sales growth and increased market share. LDB’s products became top recommendations among dermatologists, pediatricians, and pharmacists.