Tiffany & Co. and the CFDA kicked the year of events off with a new, upbeat initiative that proves joining forces is a good thing.
In its inaugural edition, the Tiffany & Co. X CFDA jewelry designer awards bring the storied American luxury houses’ social impact platform Atrium and the CFDA’s Impact program to lift a diverse group of jewelers who face even more obstacles when launching a business that requires ample funds and strong connections such as the jewelry business. Narrowed down from a group of ten designers, the winner, Jameel Mohammed of Khiry, took home the top prize in an intimate, convivial ceremony at The Landmark, Tiffany’s iconic Fifth Avenue flagship.
To present Mohammed with the award, the moment was kicked off with remarks from Tiffany & Co. CMO Andrea Davey, who expressed Tiffany’s shared value with the CFDA of supporting emerging jewelers, creativity, and craftsmanship. According to Davey, the program involved months of participants receiving coaching, and the winner would receive $50,000 and a 12-month Fellowship TK with Tiffany & Co. Kolb, who spoke to FashionNetwork.com before addressing the room, explained the impetus for the new awards ceremony: “Jewelry is an important category and continues to perform well. We have many programs to support clothing designers, but you don’t see that same level of prize money and mentorship for jewelry. Tiffany has their Atrium program that addresses diversity, equity, and inclusion, and our CFDA program like that is Impact. It’s even more of a challenge for these jewelers to succeed,” Kolb said, adding, “Pairing up with Tiffany that has the heritage and knowledge allows participants to experience workshops, attend meetings, and access Tiffany resources for several months.” The process culminated with participants showing the results of their endeavors on their creations to panel of judges, including Hardison, Everett, Verdeille, Smalls, and creative director and stylist Jahleel Weaver, formerly of Fenty, and also in attendance.
When queried, Kolb didn’t rule out adding a jewelry category to the larger CFDA Awards. “We’ve discussed it, but then ask if we must divide up all accessories. I think folks don’t want the evening to be longer,” he quipped. Onstage, Kolb addressed the California wildfires, acknowledging that they affected CFDA members, others in the industry, and friends and family of many New Yorkers, and brought attention to the CFDA’s relief initiative before introducing Stéphanie Oueda-Cruz, Tiffany & Co.’s global vice president of diversity, equity, inclusion, and belonging, who announced the winner. On the stage, Mohammed’s joyful excitement and laughter were infectious, and the industry clearly loves him. Retaining some composure to say thank you, Mohammed told the crowd, “I’ve long believed in the power of Tiffany as an American luxury brand. I’m an American luxury designer, so I am really excited to be where I belong.” His collection, which resulted from the program, was on display and featured highly developed interpretations of some brand signatures such as curvy criss-cross designs and exaggerated ball chain spheres as flowers. The other participants in the program include Angie Marei, David Perry, Ian Delucca, Hi Vu, Maggi Simpkins, Malyia McNaughton, Marvin Linares, Pamela Zamore, and Symoné Currie, who pointed out the camaraderie of the group, and one said: “If one of us wins, we all win.”
The atmosphere was so friendly in part of the plethora of jewelry designer members in attendance, such as Monica Rich Kosann, Coomi Khanna Bhasin, and Stephen Dweck, who were there with fashion and accessories designers Francisco Costa, Jason Wu, Maria Cornejo, Gigi Burris, Bach Mai, Jonathan Cohen along with legendary fashion DEI advocate and CFDA board member, Bethann Hardison.
They were joined by Nathalie Verdeille, chief artistic officer, jewelry and high jewelry, Tiffany & Co.; Sotheby’s jewelry vice chairman Frank Everett; model Joan Smalls; and Peter Marino, who designed a large portion of the flagship store.
Iceberg Jeans, the iconic streetwear line by Italian label Iceberg, is back. Under creative director James Long, the Iceberg Jeans line embodies a vibrant state of mind: fun, inclusive, contemporary, and accessible. Besides denim, the new collection includes outerwear, knitwear, tailored items, casual wear and accessories.
“I’ve always wanted to give Iceberg Jeans a new lease of life,” said Long, the creative director at Iceberg. “The brand has a unique energy, and like everything that Iceberg represents, it’s always about looking to the future with optimism. I love these designs, and I hope that others too will appreciate them and make them part of their everyday lives.”
Iceberg Jeans debuted in 1986, soon emerging as a bold brand bringing Italian design, with its mix of playfulness and wearability, to the world. Its success was fuelled by word of mouth, and by campaigns that have become pop culture icons, featuring celebrities such as Lil’ Kim and Paris Hilton. The new collection refreshes the positive essence of Iceberg Jeans’s heritage while looking to the future. The Iceberg Jeans Fall 2025 collection will be available at selected wholesale partners, Iceberg stores and online from June 2025.
Experimentation and innovation were the name of the game on the last day of Paris Haute Couture Week. Emerging couturiers took centre stage on Thursday, like Peet Dullaert, 35, from the Netherlands, and Miss Sohee, 28, from Korea. The latter staged her maiden couture week show, as a guest on the event’s official calendar. Dullaert and Miss Sohee unveiled Spring/Summer 2025 collections characterised by contrasting styles.
Dullaert, a Paris-based Dutch designer, showed for the first time at Paris Haute Couture Week exactly a year ago. In his third Parisian show, he juxtaposed glamourous looks with more everyday ones, like the suits and trousers sets or the black tweed maxi coat, worn back-to-front with the cuffs, pockets and buttons at the rear, which could morph into an evening dress if needed.
Dullaert’s couture looks were made from bodysuits and playsuits in tight stretch fabric, on which he added long, sheer flared skirts decorated with geometric patterns embroidered with gems, or made with swathes of silk draped directly on the body, giving the models real freedom of movement. The feeling of freedom was heightened by the use of a wrinkled high-performance fabric developed by the label.
Other looks were covered with thin tassels lined with sequins, or with crystals, with draped white and black tulle, taffeta and other glimmering silks. Dullaert’s looks were characterised by flowing volumes and silhouettes, but he didn’t shy away from intervening decisively in the garments’ construction, for example baring a shoulder or cutting his dresses with long slits along the legs.
The couture show by Miss Sohee, real name Sohee Park, was eagerly awaited. The London-based Korean designer showed twice before in Paris, and was a hit on the Milanese runways in February 2022, backed by Dolce & Gabbana. She pulled out all the stops in Paris, immersing her guests in a magical universe where eras and bold silhouettes mixed spectacularly, showcased inside the gilded halls and under the majestic chandeliers of the Pozzo di Borgo palace.
Miss Sohee’s ladies seemed to be ready for a grand ball with their shimmering, vibrantly coloured crinoline dresses, satin sheath dresses glittering with pearls, and statement coats whose long trains were ornamented with embroidered bucolic scenes, like a golden peacock or floral branches, rich in crystals and sequins. Looks worthy of the Venice Carnival.
Botticelli’s Venus seemed to have inspired Miss Sohee, scallops and seashells being among the key elements in her collection. A large shell rose like a fan at the back of a corset which extended into a long, faded-pink silk skirt. Elsewhere, shells encased the hips in two short bustier dresses in python and crocodile-effect leather, or added length to a bustier entirely decorated with gems that was sewn onto a tulle top dotted with mother-of-pearl drops.
Shells embroidered in small patterns featured on a silk duchesse dress, and more shells in silver pleated fabric turned into a micro hooded jacket over a Fantômas-style black velvet jumpsuit, with a double row of white pearls draped around the waist.
Nothing seemed too precious and extravagant for Miss Sohee’s ladies, who also wore more contemporary outfits consisting of lace jumpsuits, miniskirts and laced thigh-high boots. Park founded her label in 2020, after studying at Central Saint Martins in London, and her customers include scores of celebrities, among them names like Cardi B. and Bella Hadid.
All hail physical retail. The demise of the high street store predicted in the early pandemic period was wide of the mark as a near nine out of 10 of Britons visited a retail destination during October and November.
In fact, 88% now shop in-store, an amazing increase of 86.1% since last May. And it’s been heavily influenced by workers increasingly returning to city and town centre offices as well as consumers aged under 35.
That’s according the the latest Consumer Pulse Report by MRI Software/Retail Economics showing “high streets remain the lifeblood of the retail ecosystem”, leading in visitor frequency with an average of 2.2 visits per person per month “reinforcing their importance as destinations that bring people together.”
The survey reveals that 31% of office workers play a key role in high street retail, with visits peaking during lunch hours while 33% of themchoose to visit after 5pm on weekdays, particularly Tuesdays and Wednesdays which have become the popular days to venture into the office.
“As return to office becomes more widespread, the retail sector has an opportunity to maximise engagement and sales by leveraging these insights and presenting itself as a convenient shopping option for the hybrid workforce”, the report highlights.
Working from home is increasingly becoming a non-starter for many businesses with regular news stories about major companies insisting that their staff returned to the office full-time or at least three or four days a week.
Further, the under-35 demographic is increasingly motivated by experiential retail opportunities.
In November, this age group averaged 9.5 visits to physical retail destinations, more than double the frequency of those aged 55 and over.
Interestingly, the rise of social commerce, which enables shoppers to make purchases within social media apps such as TikTok and Instagram, “is likely influencing footfall into physical retail destinations and creating opportunities for in-store experiences”, the study claims.
Jenni Matthews, marketing & insights director, MRI Software, said: “The latest findings depict a retail sector that continues to adapt and remain relevant as consumer behaviours shift.
“With 88% of the UK population visiting retail destinations and under-35s driving experiential trends, it’s clear that physical retail remains a powerful touchpoint for engagement.
“Retailers have an incredible opportunity to leverage these insights, not just to meet consumer expectations, but to exceed them by creating vibrant, immersive destinations that align with changing consumer behaviours.”