Tiffany & Co. and the CFDA kicked the year of events off with a new, upbeat initiative that proves joining forces is a good thing.
In its inaugural edition, the Tiffany & Co. X CFDA jewelry designer awards bring the storied American luxury houses’ social impact platform Atrium and the CFDA’s Impact program to lift a diverse group of jewelers who face even more obstacles when launching a business that requires ample funds and strong connections such as the jewelry business. Narrowed down from a group of ten designers, the winner, Jameel Mohammed of Khiry, took home the top prize in an intimate, convivial ceremony at The Landmark, Tiffany’s iconic Fifth Avenue flagship.
To present Mohammed with the award, the moment was kicked off with remarks from Tiffany & Co. CMO Andrea Davey, who expressed Tiffany’s shared value with the CFDA of supporting emerging jewelers, creativity, and craftsmanship. According to Davey, the program involved months of participants receiving coaching, and the winner would receive $50,000 and a 12-month Fellowship TK with Tiffany & Co. Kolb, who spoke to FashionNetwork.com before addressing the room, explained the impetus for the new awards ceremony: “Jewelry is an important category and continues to perform well. We have many programs to support clothing designers, but you don’t see that same level of prize money and mentorship for jewelry. Tiffany has their Atrium program that addresses diversity, equity, and inclusion, and our CFDA program like that is Impact. It’s even more of a challenge for these jewelers to succeed,” Kolb said, adding, “Pairing up with Tiffany that has the heritage and knowledge allows participants to experience workshops, attend meetings, and access Tiffany resources for several months.” The process culminated with participants showing the results of their endeavors on their creations to panel of judges, including Hardison, Everett, Verdeille, Smalls, and creative director and stylist Jahleel Weaver, formerly of Fenty, and also in attendance.
When queried, Kolb didn’t rule out adding a jewelry category to the larger CFDA Awards. “We’ve discussed it, but then ask if we must divide up all accessories. I think folks don’t want the evening to be longer,” he quipped. Onstage, Kolb addressed the California wildfires, acknowledging that they affected CFDA members, others in the industry, and friends and family of many New Yorkers, and brought attention to the CFDA’s relief initiative before introducing Stéphanie Oueda-Cruz, Tiffany & Co.’s global vice president of diversity, equity, inclusion, and belonging, who announced the winner. On the stage, Mohammed’s joyful excitement and laughter were infectious, and the industry clearly loves him. Retaining some composure to say thank you, Mohammed told the crowd, “I’ve long believed in the power of Tiffany as an American luxury brand. I’m an American luxury designer, so I am really excited to be where I belong.” His collection, which resulted from the program, was on display and featured highly developed interpretations of some brand signatures such as curvy criss-cross designs and exaggerated ball chain spheres as flowers. The other participants in the program include Angie Marei, David Perry, Ian Delucca, Hi Vu, Maggi Simpkins, Malyia McNaughton, Marvin Linares, Pamela Zamore, and Symoné Currie, who pointed out the camaraderie of the group, and one said: “If one of us wins, we all win.”
The atmosphere was so friendly in part of the plethora of jewelry designer members in attendance, such as Monica Rich Kosann, Coomi Khanna Bhasin, and Stephen Dweck, who were there with fashion and accessories designers Francisco Costa, Jason Wu, Maria Cornejo, Gigi Burris, Bach Mai, Jonathan Cohen along with legendary fashion DEI advocate and CFDA board member, Bethann Hardison.
They were joined by Nathalie Verdeille, chief artistic officer, jewelry and high jewelry, Tiffany & Co.; Sotheby’s jewelry vice chairman Frank Everett; model Joan Smalls; and Peter Marino, who designed a large portion of the flagship store.
Burberry announced a key appointment on Friday with the luxury business saying it will soon have a new chief information officer.
It has appointed Charlotte Baldwin to the role and she’ll join the business at the end of March. Baldwin will be responsible for leading Burberry’s global technology team and will join the executive committee. She’ll report directly to Burberry CEO Joshua Schulman.
He described her as “a highly experienced technology and digital leader with a track record of leading large-scale digital transformation”.
She hasn’t previously worked in the luxury fashion sector but has wide-ranging experience across some major-name businesses in Britain.
She’s currently the global chief digital and information officer at coffee chain Costa Coffee where she oversees the company’s technology, digital and data organisation.
Prior to joining that firm, she was the chief information, digital and transformation officer at private healthcare giant Bupa’s Bupa Insurance unit. She’s also held senior roles at Freshfields Bruckhaus Deringer, Pearson and Thomson Reuters.
Burberry has been navigating a tough period of late and Schulman joined in the top job last year, tweaking the firm’s strategy. His approach seems to be paying off with the company last week porting improved results, although the turnaround is still undeniable a work in progress.
Another day, another shopping centre delivering a “record-breaking” performance in 2024. This time it’s Gloucester Quays “capping off another year of considerable growth”, for the owner/operator Peel Retail & Leisure.
That included record Christmas trading at the key Gloucester mall, which helped overall sales for the year finish 6.7% ahead of the national average. Across November and December, retail sales grew 3.6% compared with 2023.
Looking at 2024 in total, an overall 7.4% year-on-year sales increase across its tenants was split between 6.1% for retail, and 8.5% for F&B.
But there was also double-digit growth from leading fashion, homewares, and outerwear brands including Next, Skechers, All Saints, Mountain Warehouse, Puma, Crew Clothing and Suit Direct.
It said sustained growth was seen across all categories “points to the increasing relevance of the Gloucester Quays experience”.
Paul Carter, asset director at Peel Retail & Leisure, added: “There have been various headlines this month about how challenged retail was around Christmas, so to have Gloucester Quays performing so well is a real credit to our team and our brands.
“These results also serve as a reminder of how relevant and in demand this outlet is. We have experienced consistent growth for several years, and that success can be put down to the quality of our offer and waterside environment. There is no doubt our catchment is responding to how we have evolved Gloucester Quays, as an urban outlet that combines a compelling shopping environment with dining and leisure to fit all tastes and needs, benefitting from a heritage waterside setting that few regionally can match.”
Italy’s Give Back Beauty, which makes perfumes for luxury brands such as Chopard and Zegna, on Friday said it had agreed to buy domestic rival AB Parfums to grow its distribution operations and add licensing deals.
Fragrances have been outperforming the broader beauty sector and Give Back Beauty founder and Chairman Corrado Brondi told Reuters his company did not rule a possible bourse listing in the future, adding it had no financial need for it at present.
Brondi said AB Parfumes had sales of around €100 million, which would add to Give Back Beauty’s net revenues that totalled around €300 million in 2024.
Give Back Beauty, which was founded in 2019 and has a distribution deal with Dolce & Gabbana and a beauty license with Tommy Hilfiger, has a core profit margin currently a little over 15%, it said.
AB Parfums is being sold by Italy’s Angelini Industries, a family-owned group that is mostly active in the pharmaceutical sector.
Give Back Beauty’s business is currently focused on fragrances, which represent roughly 70% of its revenues, but it aims to grow its skincare, make-up and haircare product lines, Brondi said.