Fast fashion retailer Shein‘s plans to list in London face a challenge from a group campaigning against forced labour in China, which said on Monday it would apply for a judicial review of the IPO if Britain’s regulator approves the flotation.
The group, Stop Uyghur Genocide, claims the retailer’s supply chain in China includes cotton produced by Uyghur forced labour. Its plan to apply for a judicial review could increase pressure on Britain’s Financial Conduct Authority, though it faces a high bar to succeed.
The FCA said it cannot comment on potential listings. Shein said it strictly prohibits forced labour in its supply chain globally. The online retailer aims to list in London in the first half of this year if it gains regulatory approvals, two sources with direct knowledge told Reuters last month.
In a similar challenge to an IPO in 2023, environmental law group ClientEarth applied for a judicial review after the FCA approved oil producer Ithaca Energy‘s flotation, but the High Court denied the application saying it could not be proved the FCA had failed to disclose material risks.
The U.S. government and rights groups say Uyghur minority people are subject to abuses including forced labour in internment camps set up by the Chinese government in the Xinjiang region. China denies any abuses.
Xinjiang produces around 80% of China’s cotton and accounts for a fifth of global cotton production, exposing most global apparel retailers and brands to this risk.
In written evidence to UK lawmakers, Shein said it only allows cotton from approved regions, which do not include China, for its products sold in the U.S., its biggest market, as part of its compliance with the U.S. Uyghur Forced Labour Prevention Act (UFLPA), which prohibits the import of products made in Xinjiang or made by designated banned companies.
Shein did not specify whether its restrictions on cotton sources applied to products sold in other markets, such as the UK. The retailer does not prohibit the use of Chinese cotton in its products where such use would not breach relevant laws and regulations, it added.
The European Union will increase customs checks on goods shipped directly by e-commerce retailers like Temu and Shein to EU consumers as it seeks to ensure fair competition and product safety, according to a draft of an official communication seen by Reuters on Monday.
The directive from the European Commission, expected to be published on Wednesday, will affect all non-EU ecommerce retailers although it specifically addresses the rapid growth of Temu, an online marketplace owned by Chinese ecommerce giant PDD Holdings, and Shein, a fast-fashion retailer founded in China but now headquartered in Singapore.
Both retailers have undercut local players with ultra-low prices for products made in China, and benefited from an EU law giving parcels worth less than €150 ($153.71) duty-free status, a measure critics say gives them an unfair advantage. Clothing, for example, is usually subject to a 12% import duty to enter the EU.
The European Union-wide customs operation will prioritise controls on products bought online that present “significant safety hazards and risks of non-compliance”, the European Commission said, calling on all member states to participate. The precise list of products will be determined in agreement with member states.
According to the Commission, 91% of all e-commerce shipments into the EU valued under €150 last year came from China. In total 4.6 billion low-value shipments arrived in the EU last year, more than double the number in 2023.
“The surge of these imports shipped directly to consumers raises significant challenges that require urgent attention, in particular where imported products may be dangerous, counterfeit or otherwise do not comply with EU law,” the Commission said in the draft document.
Customs handling capacity at the EU border has also not increased sufficiently to manage this surge in parcels, the Commission said, calling for “urgent” adoption of its customs reform package which would scrap the 150-euro duty-free limit and create an EU Customs Authority to reinforce border capacity.
The Commission said it would work with legislators to frontload to 2026 parts of its planned customs reform, in particular the EU Customs Authority and the preparations for a Data Hub for e-commerce, ahead of the planned 2028 start date.
The equivalent “de minimis” rule in the U.S., which allows duty-free access for parcels under $800 in value, was scrapped for products coming from China, Mexico and Canada, as part of President Donald Trump’s package of tariffs targeting those countries announced on Saturday.
Contents of the draft European Commission document were first reported by the Financial Times.
Failed shirtmaker and retailer TM Lewin has seen its debt load rise since its collapse. Its debts are understood to have grown by almost £10 million and it now owes unsecured creditors over £30 million.
The business, which isn’t the firm now operating as TM Lewin (the brand was bought post-administration by the parent company of its main lender) had 150 stores before the pandemic but struggled with the switch to working from home and the increasing casualisation of office-wear.
The Times reported that a document filed with Companies House shows unsecured creditor claims rose from £24.6 million to £33.8 million between June 30 and the end of December last year.
These are debts owed by a company that are unsecured against any asset and do not hold priority over other creditors, meaning they are unlikely to be repaid.
Administrator Evelyn Partners said the main reason for the rise was a creditor providing proof of claims for over £10 million, compared with an estimated liability of more than £5 million. HM Revenue & Customs had also submitted an unsecured claim for £1.9 million.
TM Lewin called in administrators in 2022 for the second time in less than two years. The business, which operated 150 stores pre-pandemic, had been a solely online business since first calling in administrators in June 2020.
The company was then owned by Torque Brands, part of the US-based private equity firm Stonebridge, after it bought it out of an earlier administration in 2020.
The latest documents show that £841,600 has been paid to preferential creditors. Preferential claims of £1 million were estimated in the statement of affairs, in respect of outstanding wages, holiday pay and pension arrears.
The administrators said they had increased their fee estimate from £386,000 to £864,000 as the restructuring process has “had to stay open significantly longer than originally envisioned”.
“Further time has had to be spent to ensure adequate case progression, including regular updates between the officeholders and their staff to consult on the best approach to overcome unforeseen hurdles surrounding employee claims and tax,” they said.
Trouva has suspended trading as the online fashion marketplace’s owner searches for a buyer. Project J has hired accountancy firm RSM to find the platform’s fifth owner in less than three years.
The online marketplace offers a platform for independent stores and boutiques that don’t have an online retail presence.
A source close to the company told Sky News, which broke the story, that it had taken the decision to pause orders and sales during the search for a new owner in order “to protect customers and sellers”.
Project J, itself a home and living marketplace, acquired the business last year. It said its wider business would be unaffected by the proposed sale process.
Jonathan Thomson, co-founder of Project J, added: “This has been an incredibly difficult decision, but we have decided to focus our efforts on building the Fy! brand and explore the options for a sale of Trouva.”
He added: “By exploring a potential sale, we are creating an opportunity for Trouva to continue its journey. We believe this is in the best interests of the business, boutiques and the team.”
Most recent previous Trouva owners have included Re:store in 2023, and Made.com which bought the business in spring 2022.
Launched in 2015, Trouva claims relationships with over 700 boutiques across Europe.