The Fondation Louis Vuitton will stage a novel Alexander Calder centennial retrospective in 2026, the latest in a series by the Paris art institute focused on leading artists of 20th and 21st centuries.
The striking silhouette of the Fondation Louis Vuitton in France – Fondation Louis Vuitton – Facebook
Previous monographic exhibitions at the Fondation Louis Vuitton have included Jean-Michel Basquiat, Joan Mitchell, Charlotte Perriand, Mark Rothko, David Hockney, and Gerhard Richter, its current show.
For Calder, a legendary artist known for his giant mobiles, sprawling mechanical kinetic sculptures moved by power and wind, the foundation will dedicate the entirety of its show space. And also, for the first time, the adjacent lawn, in a dialogue between Calder’s volumes, planes, and movements and those of the foundation’s famous sailboat silhouette.
The announcement by the Fondation Louis Vuitton on Tuesday, comes 11 days after the death of Frank Gehry, the master architect who designed its building. The art show will celebrate the centenary of Alexander Calder’s arrival in France in 1926 and the 50th anniversary of his death with a retrospective covering all aspects of his work. The son and grandson of two sculptors, Calder was born in Philadelphia in 1898 and died in New York in 1976.
Entitled ‘Calder: Rêver en équilibre,’ or ‘Calder: Dreaming in Balance,’ the exhibition covers half a century of creation, from the late 1920s and the first performances of the Calder Circus that captivated the Parisian avant-garde, to his monumental sculptures that redefined the idea of public art in the 1960s and 1970s.
The exhibition, one of the most important to date devoted to Calder, was conceived in close collaboration with the Calder Foundation, which is the main lender. It will also benefit from loans from international institutions and leading private collectors, bringing together nearly 300 works: mobiles and stabiles- to borrow Calder’s terminology for kinetic and static abstractions- as well as wire portraits, wooden sculptures, paintings, drawings, and even jewellery.
Works by his friends Jean Arp, Barbara Hepworth, Jean Hélion, and Piet Mondrian, as well as Paul Klee and Pablo Picasso, help to situate Calder’s radical inventiveness within the avant-garde movement. Thirty-four photographs taken by some of the most important photographers of the 20th century (Henri Cartier-Bresson, André Kertész, Gordon Parks, Man Ray, Irving Penn, and Agnès Varda) show an artist walking the tightrope between art and life.
After studying at the Art Students League in New York, Calder moved to Paris in 1926. In the Montparnasse district, the artist quickly became part of what was then the world’s leading artistic centre. There he presented unique forms, figurative and refined wire sculptures that attracted critical acclaim, and a miniature circus. Thanks to an exceptional loan from the Whitney Museum of American Art, the first in 15 years, Calder’s Circus is returning to Paris, the city where it was created. At the centre of this new kind of show, Calder manipulates acrobats, clowns, and miniature horsemen. Fernand Léger, Jean Hélion, Le Corbusier, Jean Arp, Joan Miró, and Piet Mondrian are among his spectators.
Calder’s visit to Mondrian’s studio in 1930 marked the abstract turning point in his work, first in painting, then in sculpture. Marcel Duchamp proposed the name “Mobiles” for the abstract and kinetic compositions that the artist presented in 1932 at the Galerie Vignon in Paris. Initially driven mechanically, then moved by slight breezes, these mobiles borrowed “their life from the vague life of the atmosphere,” as Jean-Paul Sartre wrote in 1946.
Calder returned to France after WW2 and set up a studio in the hamlet of Saché, in the Loire Valley in 1953. One of his sculptures still stands in the village’s square.
Like his swaying interconnected mobile art, the exhibition is a joint curation that includes input from Suzanne Pagé, artistic director of the Fondation Louis Vuitton; guest curators Dieter Buchhart and Anna Karina Hofbauer, assisted by Valentin Neuroth and Claire Deuticke; and Olivier Michelon, associate curator, assisted by Léna Lévy.
“This acquisition marks a strategic step for Kering and illustrates our ambition in the jewellery sector”: for his first acquisition at the helm of Kering, Luca de Meo, CEO of the French luxury group since September, has opted for an Italian player. On Thursday, the group announced the “phased” acquisition of Raselli Franco Group, an Italian company specialising in the manufacture of jewellery, with the aim of taking full ownership by 2032.
Kering to gradually increase its stake in the Raselli Franco Group – Raselli Franco
The first stage of this progressive acquisition will take place in 2026, in a transaction that values the company— a long-standing Kering partner based in Valenza, between Milan and Turin, with offices in Paris, the United States, Canada, China and Hong Kong— at around 575 million euros.
“The acquisition will be carried out in several stages, starting with an initial stake of 20% in the first quarter of 2026, for an amount of 115 million euros,” the group said in a statement, stressing that the agreement envisages full ownership by 2032.
“By securing essential production capacity for our jewellery business, this partnership will strengthen our value chain and accelerate the growth of our Houses,” said de Meo in the press release. Kering owns the Boucheron, Pomellato, DoDo and Qeelin jewellery brands.
Founded in 1969, Raselli Franco Group is internationally recognised for its expertise and capacity for innovation in jewellery prototyping and manufacturing, according to Kering.
The company spans the entire value chain, from sourcing raw materials and precious stones to research and development, design, component creation, assembly and quality control, the luxury group said.
In the first nine months of the year, Kering’s sales fell by 14% to 11 billion euros, but in the third quarter, the jewellery brands posted “very solid momentum, with double-digit revenue growth”, the group said when presenting its results. The segment recorded double-digit growth, with Boucheron cited as the growth driver, performing particularly well in the United States and Asia-Pacific. As for Pomellato and Qeelin, commentary was positive on the development of both brands.
With AFP
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In the nine months from February 1 to October 31, 2025, OVS Spa reported net sales of 1,244.7 million euros, up 5.8% on the first nine months of 2024. Pro-forma growth, excluding Goldenpoint’s contribution, was 2.9%, four percentage points ahead of the market.
Stefano Beraldo, OVS Group CEO
By sales channel, direct store sales totalled 1,004 million euros (+7.6% versus 2024; pro-forma growth +4.0%). The franchising and B2B channel posted revenues of 241 million euros, down 0.9% year on year due to lower sales to off-price marketplaces, while business with franchise partners edged up slightly.
During the period, adjusted EBITDA reached 152.3 million euros, up 17.1 million on the same period of 2024, with a positive contribution from Goldenpoint. Breaking this down, OVS’s EBITDA rose by 11.6 million to 122.8 million euros; Upim‘s EBITDA was 30.5 million, compared with 29.3 million last year; and Stefanel‘s EBITDA increased by around 2 million euros.
The third quarter confirmed the group’s positive momentum, with net sales of 452 million euros (+9%; +4.1% excluding Goldenpoint). Adjusted EBITDA was 50.6 million euros, up 9.4%.
“The growth in the third quarter was particularly significant given the challenging basis for comparison with the same period last year, which recorded an exceptional +13%. (…) This performance reflects the effectiveness of the strategic choices made, particularly in the womenswear segment, with an assortment structured around collections with distinct and complementary identities. The Piombo, Les Copains, and B.Angel collections are therefore delivering significantly better sales per square metre than the rest of the range. The beauty segment also continued to deliver excellent results, with double-digit growth,” commented CEO Stefano Beraldo.
“In terms of performance by banner, the strongest growth was achieved by OVS, while Upim consolidated the exceptional +8% posted in the first nine months of 2024. Stefanel also performed very well, with like-for-like growth of around 10% in the quarter. Finally, our approach to managing Goldenpoint is beginning to deliver its first results: overall sales are up by around 10% on the comparable period, driven by the success of the product categories developed by our design studios,” he said.
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Sportswear business Puma has secured additional financing of more than €600 million. It comprises a €500 million facility and a further €108 million in committed credit lines, according to a statement on Thursday. The aim is to reduce utilisation of the existing €1.2 billion revolving credit facility while increasing the company’s financial flexibility.
Reuters
The new €500 million facility is fully guaranteed by Santander Corporate & Investment Banking (Santander CIB). Both new financing instruments have maturities of up to two years.
Markus Neubrand, CFO of Puma SE, said: “While our existing syndicated credit facility and promissory notes remain available, today’s announcement will enhance our financial flexibility as we work to finalise our long-term financing structure. The fact that our banking partners have further expanded their commitment and business relationship underlines the confidence in our future business model and strategic direction. This will enable us to realise our strategic priorities and our goal of establishing Puma as a top-three sports brand worldwide.”
FashionNetwork.com with dpa
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