Failed shirtmaker and retailer TM Lewin has seen its debt load rise since its collapse. Its debts are understood to have grown by almost £10 million and it now owes unsecured creditors over £30 million.
The business, which isn’t the firm now operating as TM Lewin (the brand was bought post-administration by the parent company of its main lender) had 150 stores before the pandemic but struggled with the switch to working from home and the increasing casualisation of office-wear.
The Times reported that a document filed with Companies House shows unsecured creditor claims rose from £24.6 million to £33.8 million between June 30 and the end of December last year.
These are debts owed by a company that are unsecured against any asset and do not hold priority over other creditors, meaning they are unlikely to be repaid.
Administrator Evelyn Partners said the main reason for the rise was a creditor providing proof of claims for over £10 million, compared with an estimated liability of more than £5 million. HM Revenue & Customs had also submitted an unsecured claim for £1.9 million.
TM Lewin called in administrators in 2022 for the second time in less than two years. The business, which operated 150 stores pre-pandemic, had been a solely online business since first calling in administrators in June 2020.
The company was then owned by Torque Brands, part of the US-based private equity firm Stonebridge, after it bought it out of an earlier administration in 2020.
The latest documents show that £841,600 has been paid to preferential creditors. Preferential claims of £1 million were estimated in the statement of affairs, in respect of outstanding wages, holiday pay and pension arrears.
The administrators said they had increased their fee estimate from £386,000 to £864,000 as the restructuring process has “had to stay open significantly longer than originally envisioned”.
“Further time has had to be spent to ensure adequate case progression, including regular updates between the officeholders and their staff to consult on the best approach to overcome unforeseen hurdles surrounding employee claims and tax,” they said.
Isabel Marant has released it SS25 campaign and it stars someone who in many ways has for decades summed up the Marant style — “long-time friend of the house” Kate Moss.
Styled by another influencer who also sums up the Marant look — former Vogue Paris editor-in-chief Emmanuelle Alt — so far, so unsurprising.
Perhaps a little more surprising is the campaign’s male lead, K-pop star Seonghwa of boy band Ateez, with K-pop’s biggest names having more recently been associated with France’s ultra-luxury brands than a ‘boho-chic’ one like Isabel Marant. Yet given the huge impact K-pop stars have made globally, it might be less of a shock that a label as attuned to the mood of the moment as this one has signed him for the campaign.
Moss and Seonghwa were shot in Paris by photographer Robin Galiegue and unlike some campaigns, in this case the two stars (and the clothes, of course) are the main focus with white backgrounds underlining that fact.
The images have a 1990s-meets-2020s feel (as does the inclusion of both Moss and Seonghhwa), in many ways summing up the whole Marant look.
What’s also key is that while Kate Moss has fronted more fashion campaigns than most of us have had hot dinners (although she last modelled for the label back in AW10), this is a first for Seonghwa.
“This campaign is a celebration of time, where a 1990s icon meets a 2020s K-pop star, underscoring Isabel Marant’s ability to bridge cultures and eras, creating a world that speaks to both timeless style and modern youth,” the company said.
It will be interesting to see the impact the campaign makes. Isabel Marant has struggled with sales growth in recent periods and last November, it was rep[orted that for 2024 through September, the company saw a 31% slide in sales to wholesale customers and online retail clients, following a previous drop in orders for its recent collections.
That was according to a results presentation seen by Bloomberg News. Overall the business saw a 17% drop in sales for the year, relative to the same period in 2023.
Scotch & Soda is continuing its bounce-back under global brand management company Bluestar Alliance via a new collab — dubbed Born to Love — with contemporary pop artist Burton Morris.
The collection has gone live on the brand’s webstore “just in time for Valentine’s Day”, in Scotch & Soda’s stores, as well as in select locations across the US (including Anthropologie and Nordstrom), Australia, China, Middle East, and Europe. Prices range from $52.79-$475.55.
The Amsterdam-based fashion brand’s latest collab is built around its “enduring theme of love” and features American artists Morris’s signature vibrant hearts.
It “reimagines modern workwear with a colourful twist”, combining single and multi-colour screen-printed patches, shuttle loom designs, and “dynamic ‘handcrafted look’ embroidery techniques”.
Mini satin-stitch pocket details are meant to add a playful touch, “making every piece a wearable work of art”.
Key styles include structured trucker and bomber jackets, graphic tees, a matching knit set, and hoodies, complemented by accessories such as a baseball cap, tote bag, and silk scarf.
Scotch & Soda has been ramping up its high-profile activities in recent periods. Last autumn it officially opened its first New York City store in the heart of Soho, as the Dutch fashion brand looked to make inroads in the US.
That followed shortly after it signed American singer, songwriter, and actor Joe Jonas as its first global ambassador and opened the doors of its new London store on Carnaby Street.
The European Union will increase customs checks on goods shipped directly by e-commerce retailers like Temu and Shein to EU consumers as it seeks to ensure fair competition and product safety, according to a draft of an official communication seen by Reuters on Monday.
The directive from the European Commission, expected to be published on Wednesday, will affect all non-EU ecommerce retailers although it specifically addresses the rapid growth of Temu, an online marketplace owned by Chinese ecommerce giant PDD Holdings, and Shein, a fast-fashion retailer founded in China but now headquartered in Singapore.
Both retailers have undercut local players with ultra-low prices for products made in China, and benefited from an EU law giving parcels worth less than €150 ($153.71) duty-free status, a measure critics say gives them an unfair advantage. Clothing, for example, is usually subject to a 12% import duty to enter the EU.
The European Union-wide customs operation will prioritise controls on products bought online that present “significant safety hazards and risks of non-compliance”, the European Commission said, calling on all member states to participate. The precise list of products will be determined in agreement with member states.
According to the Commission, 91% of all e-commerce shipments into the EU valued under €150 last year came from China. In total 4.6 billion low-value shipments arrived in the EU last year, more than double the number in 2023.
“The surge of these imports shipped directly to consumers raises significant challenges that require urgent attention, in particular where imported products may be dangerous, counterfeit or otherwise do not comply with EU law,” the Commission said in the draft document.
Customs handling capacity at the EU border has also not increased sufficiently to manage this surge in parcels, the Commission said, calling for “urgent” adoption of its customs reform package which would scrap the 150-euro duty-free limit and create an EU Customs Authority to reinforce border capacity.
The Commission said it would work with legislators to frontload to 2026 parts of its planned customs reform, in particular the EU Customs Authority and the preparations for a Data Hub for e-commerce, ahead of the planned 2028 start date.
The equivalent “de minimis” rule in the U.S., which allows duty-free access for parcels under $800 in value, was scrapped for products coming from China, Mexico and Canada, as part of President Donald Trump’s package of tariffs targeting those countries announced on Saturday.
Contents of the draft European Commission document were first reported by the Financial Times.