Almost last, but very probably best, Miuccia Prada presented her latest collection for Miu Miu—a meeting of multiple decades, manifold pronouns, and some really marvelous fashion on Tuesday, the final day of Paris Fashion Week.
Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny
During a year that has begun with blatant attacks by the Trump administration on diversity of any form, it was particularly admirable to witness Miuccia’s cast, so obviously diverse in their sexual preferences. Added to that was an overriding sense of liberation in this show, with its super self-confident women, overt sensuality, and unexpected clothes.
The designer’s bold opening idea was using thick, military-style felted wool in generals’ coats or city skirt suits, where the only thing evident underneath was a bra. Cut to sit off the torso, with bold raised seams and darts at the back, making it all seem super now—easily identifiable chic for those in the know.
In an impish play, the tailoring was paired with early-teen cotton knee socks or black socks covered in crystals and strass. Miuccia, who personally loves fine jewelry, finished every model in spiky golden earrings and large floral brooches.
Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny
Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny
Weaving disparate eras, Miu Miu suddenly grew cinematic—blending femme fatales from Hitchcock with knowing seductresses from David Lynch. Checked and printed skirts paired with side-buckled boots and fitted sweaters—each look completed with elaborately lacquered hair and sultry secretary glasses. A nod to Miss Moneypenny, but through the lens of Miu Miu in Paris, in a collection Miuccia aptly titled “Femininities.”
Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny
Signora Prada never does anything in half measures, and in a season where fur has reconquered the runways, she sent out all manner of fur stoles—fox, wolf, and mink—worn as scarves and cut with hand-warmer pockets.
Crossing borders with footwear, most of her gals wore mannish burnished leather loafers, along with the coolest aged leather dude blazers with aplomb.
Miuccia always loves mixing up her Miu Miu cast. This season, she selected actress Sarah Paulson, of “The People v. O.J. Simpson” fame; fellow thespians Raffey Cassidy, Laura Harrier, Oscar Lesage, and Sunday Rose Kidman Urban; French ever-hip hipster Lou Doillon; artist Isabelle Albuquerque; Amelia Gray, daughter of Perseus; and rapper Nettspend. Talk about eclectic.
Before heading into the evening, first came some razor-sharp leather looks. The show ended with girls on the prowl—in slip dresses or off-the-shoulder silk dresses with bra straps always on display. Looking sensational inside the 1930s Palais d’Iéna, done up with yellow silk jacquard wallpaper.
Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny
Backed up by a great cinema organ-driven soundtrack, climaxing with “Day Off” by Teho & Romain Garcia. Effectively bringing to an end the truly influential shows in contemporary fashion.
A bona fide home-run, bases-loaded hit show. If Miuccia Prada were a footballer, she would have just won the Ballon d’Or again for Miu Miu. At the very least, she got the most enthusiastic applause of four weeks of runway shows. That’s real respect.
The Philipp Plein group is actively deploying an ambitious retail expansion plan for its three labels (Philipp Plein, Plein Sport and Billionaire), as the mercurial Hamburg-born designer and owner of the Switzerland-based group told FashionNetwork.com. Plein has been working at his customary headlong pace during the recent Milan Fashion Week, busy with events and runway shows featuring celebrity guests like rapper Busta Rhymes.
Philipp Plein unveiled its Wild West-inspired co-ed Fall/Winter 2025-26 collection, featuring 51 looks, at the iconic Plein Hotel in Milan. The mood was Cowboy Couture, translating into a casual but high-spirited style for the daytime, and a boldly elevated one for the evening. The collection focused on Philipp Plein’s signature denim looks, notably indigo jeans matched with oversized denim shirts and striking coats. Vintage Americana motifs and a pair of glittering Stars & Stripes trousers featured alongside polished tailored looks combining dark red and green with bright blue. Notable accessories included Wild West hats, road-trip style bags, and a range of footwear including knee-high red leather boots, functional combat boots, and classic sneakers.
“We wanted to take advantage of the truly unique venue we’ve created in Milan. We didn’t stage a fashion show here, but a show full-stop, the Plein Show cabaret, with 25 dancers and performers entertaining 500 guests who kept eating and partying until 5 a.m. We love filling this place with joy and happiness,” Plein told FashionNetwork.com. “We opened the Plein Hotel with its three restaurants in September 2024, and in just a few months we have held several events and shows, including a black-tie masked ball – think Kubrick‘s Eyes Wide Shut film – and performances by DJs like Marco Corona and Sven Väth. We’ve had scores of events, all of them creating fun party memories,” he added.
Plein used to stage runway shows for his main label that were real events, held in large venues with thousands of guests. “Right now, I think that, not just for us but for the fashion world as a whole, everything should be more restrained and confidential,” said Plein. “And we haven’t finished yet, because in summer we’ll open a beach club on the upper floor, where we can accommodate over 1,500 people. The Plein Hotel is a unique opportunity, which we must take advantage of,” he added.
In the meantime, the Philipp Plein group is busy with a spate of new store openings. On Sunday, March 2, it opened a Plein Sport store in Spain and, between April and May, new Philipp Plein and Billionaire stores will be opening in Munich. A new Plein Sport store was inaugurated last week near Calabasas, in Los Angeles County, while two Plein Sport stores will open in Malta, another in Lebanon, and a further one will open in a few days in Berlin. A Philipp Plein store is also opening at around the same time in Warsaw, Poland.
Plein also dwelt on the challenging year that the industry experienced in 2024. “Many companies took the Covid pandemic as an excuse to raise prices, suppliers raised them too due to a shortage of raw materials and because they couldn’t meet demand, and this led to a situation in which consumers have become hostile to such an unfair pricing policy, as they’re facing price increases of up to 20-30-50%. While quality has failed to rise accordingly,” said Plein, adding that “of course, some groups are under pressure, because they are listed on the stock exchange, there are investors behind them, financial reports every quarter, so they’re pushing for margin, but there comes a point when you can’t push any more.”
“The Gucci case is emblematic of an expansion drive taken to extremes. They did an extraordinary job of bringing the [Gucci] brand to such levels of sales and product desirability. I do believe that there are momentum shifts in the market. For years, consumers wanted Gucci products, now not as much as before, also for the reasons I mentioned earlier, so sales have dropped, and as usual it’s the designer who pays the price, because there always has to be a scapegoat. But I repeat, for me this is just a phase, a change in trend,” concluded Plein.
The Philipp Plein group is based in Lugano, Switzerland. It is financially independent and debt-free, employing over 700 people and operating over 110 monobrand stores worldwide, including flagship stores in Milan, Paris, Barcelona, Berlin, Dubai, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Shanghai and Singapore.
The Première Classe trade show was held on March 7-10 once again at the Tuileries Garden in Paris, having been staged at the Carrousel du Louvre last September. This season, the show featured 250 exhibitors, fewer than in the past, presenting their latest fashion and accessories collections with a focus on handbags, shoes, jewellery, and headgear. Première Classe was held in parallel with Matter and Shape, the contemporary design show launched by WSN in March 2024, which hosted almost double the number of exhibitors this session, generating new commercial energy.
A handbag by Michino – DR
The Michino brand exhibited its range of high-end leather goods at Première Classe. “French elegance combined with Japanese minimalism,” is how Yasu Michino likes to describe the brand he founded 10 years ago. Michino handbags are made in Italy in the Florence area, by artisanal workshops supplying some of the leading luxury houses. They are characterised by evergreen lines enhanced with subtle graphic details, and are priced from approximately €1,000. Michino, a French-Japanese designer who moved to Paris a long time ago, is a leather goods expert who has worked for labels like Givenchy, Balenciaga and Le Tanneur. A year ago, he decided to focus exclusively on his eponymous brand, which is doing very well in Asia and the USA.
Boots by United Nude – DR
Dutch footwear brand United Nude returned to Première Classe after a few years’ absence. It was co-founded in 2003 by renowned architect Rem D. Koolhaas, and is well-known for its extremely futuristic models (for example, it adopted 3D printing techniques early on) and de-structured heels. This season, it has gone in a rather more urban direction, with bright colours and XL platform soles. United Nude also presented a pair of boots, in black or white, featuring rows of transparent plastic pouches along the legs, which can hold letters forming sentences. A concept that was replicated on a handbag.
The Caro Bag – DR
Studio Caro was launched at the end of 2024 by Estonian-born designer Caro-Liine Tikk, who has worked at Bally, and defines itself as a brand of sustainable luxury accessories. The first products launched by Studio Caro are handbags made in Italian workshops using leather from dormant stocks. The Caro Bag, the collection’s firstborn, comes in small (€1,940), medium and large size, and is decorated with a clasp in 24-carat gold and palladium. Studio Caro is planning to introduce other product categories soon, such as hats and home decoration objects.
UK fashion brand New Look has joined Dutch knitwear brand Rhea and Norwegian sports label Active Brands in signing up to ‘Brand Letter of Intent’, the appeal by international fashion brands to stop mulesing (live lamb cutting).
New Look
The trio takes the number of brands signed up to 100, four years after its launch by global animal welfare organisation Four Paws.
Sending a “clear signal for more animal welfare in the industry… to stop mutilation of 10 million lambs per year”, it urges the Australian wool industry “to stop the process by 2030, and transition to industry-proven alternatives that are kind to animals”.
The trio join leading names such Zara, Patagonia and Hugo Boss to publicly commit to excluding wool sourced from live lamb cutting. In the open letter, they call “to end this cruel practice”.
Rebecca Picallo Gil, wool campaign lead at Four Paws, said: “This global wave of support is a clear message. It is time for a kind solution to a global problem. The wool industry must evolve to meet the demands of modern brands and consumers who ask for cruelty-free fashion.
“It is time for all stakeholders to come together and push for an industry-wide change and end to this cruel practice and ensure a kinder future for millions of lambs in the wool industry.”