Fab femininities in Palais d’Iéna

Almost last, but very probably best, Miuccia Prada presented her latest collection for Miu Miu—a meeting of multiple decades, manifold pronouns, and some really marvelous fashion on Tuesday, the final day of Paris Fashion Week.

 
During a year that has begun with blatant attacks by the Trump administration on diversity of any form, it was particularly admirable to witness Miuccia’s cast, so obviously diverse in their sexual preferences. Added to that was an overriding sense of liberation in this show, with its super self-confident women, overt sensuality, and unexpected clothes.
 
The designer’s bold opening idea was using thick, military-style felted wool in generals’ coats or city skirt suits, where the only thing evident underneath was a bra. Cut to sit off the torso, with bold raised seams and darts at the back, making it all seem super now—easily identifiable chic for those in the know.

In an impish play, the tailoring was paired with early-teen cotton knee socks or black socks covered in crystals and strass. Miuccia, who personally loves fine jewelry, finished every model in spiky golden earrings and large floral brooches.

Weaving disparate eras, Miu Miu suddenly grew cinematic—blending femme fatales from Hitchcock with knowing seductresses from David Lynch. Checked and printed skirts paired with side-buckled boots and fitted sweaters—each look completed with elaborately lacquered hair and sultry secretary glasses. A nod to Miss Moneypenny, but through the lens of Miu Miu in Paris, in a collection Miuccia aptly titled “Femininities.”

 
Signora Prada never does anything in half measures, and in a season where fur has reconquered the runways, she sent out all manner of fur stoles—fox, wolf, and mink—worn as scarves and cut with hand-warmer pockets.

Crossing borders with footwear, most of her gals wore mannish burnished leather loafers, along with the coolest aged leather dude blazers with aplomb.
 
Miuccia always loves mixing up her Miu Miu cast. This season, she selected actress Sarah Paulson, of “The People v. O.J. Simpson” fame; fellow thespians Raffey Cassidy, Laura Harrier, Oscar Lesage, and Sunday Rose Kidman Urban; French ever-hip hipster Lou Doillon; artist Isabelle Albuquerque; Amelia Gray, daughter of Perseus; and rapper Nettspend. Talk about eclectic.
 
Before heading into the evening, first came some razor-sharp leather looks. The show ended with girls on the prowl—in slip dresses or off-the-shoulder silk dresses with bra straps always on display. Looking sensational inside the 1930s Palais d’Iéna, done up with yellow silk jacquard wallpaper.

Backed up by a great cinema organ-driven soundtrack, climaxing with “Day Off” by Teho & Romain Garcia. Effectively bringing to an end the truly influential shows in contemporary fashion.

A bona fide home-run, bases-loaded hit show. If Miuccia Prada were a footballer, she would have just won the Ballon d’Or again for Miu Miu. At the very least, she got the most enthusiastic applause of four weeks of runway shows. That’s real respect.