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Dover Street Market partners with Parley for the Oceans to launch new brand

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Roberta HERRERA

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February 6, 2025

Dover Street Market Paris, renowned for its strong connections with designers and textile innovators, is collaborating with Parley for the Oceans, the environmental organisation dedicated to combating plastic pollution in marine ecosystems, to introduce Parley, a new brand focused on eco-innovation in fashion.

The partnership is being described as “a bold step in transforming the fashion industry by setting new standards in eco-innovation and design,” according to Dover Street Market Paris Brand Development (DSMP-BD) and Parley for the Oceans.

Adrian Joffe and Cyrill Gutsch – Photography by Valentin Folliet

Founded by Cyrill Gutsch over a decade ago, Parley for the Oceans has been at the forefront of raising awareness about ocean plastic pollution while promoting sustainable alternatives. The organisation has collaborated with artists, media, and top fashion brands like G-Star and Adidas to drive positive change. Now, with Dover Street Market and its Paris-based creative division, Parley is launching a new brand under the same name, aimed at creating the next generation of sustainable materials for the fashion industry.

“After more than a decade of fighting plastic pollution and intercepting waste across the globe, we are entering a new phase with the launch of the Parley Future Material initiative,” said Cyrill Gutsch. “This project will fund and accelerate eco-innovations aimed at replacing plastic and other harmful materials. Together with our friends and allies at Dover Street Market, a creative epicenter of the fashion world, we are launching Parley—a permanent, collaborative experiment designed to explore, celebrate, and drive forward the development of new materials.”

This long-term partnership will introduce its first products in March, ahead of the official collection launch in June.

“We are thrilled to join forces with Parley for the Oceans. Cyrill is a visionary, and his mission to restore the oceans—the heart of our planet—is crucial to our collective future,” said Adrian Joffe, CEO of Dover Street Market. “In these uncertain times, Parley’s work serves as a beacon of hope and inspiration. We are honoured and excited to contribute to this initiative.”

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Billie Eilish launches new fragrance ‘Your Turn’

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February 6, 2025

Billie Eilish Fragrances has unveiled the latest addition to its fragrance portfolio, with the introduction of “Your Turn”. 

Billie Eilish launches new fragrance “Your Turn”. – Billie Eilish Fragrances

Your Turn features a bottle inspired by Eilish’s admiration for dice, with a translucent chrome finish. This design continues the brand’s tradition of turning fragrance bottles into artful home décor pieces.

The fragrance itself opens with a zesty blend of bergamot peel, cardamom pod, and fresh ginger, followed by a delicate heart of velvet peach skin, night-blooming jasmine, and coconut water. It concludes with warm base notes of Australian sandalwood, musks, and sustainably sourced Sylvamber.

Your Turn is vegan, cruelty-free, paraben-free, and crafted with clean ingredients. The packaging uses environmentally conscious materials, including Envirofoil printing and 100% renewable wind energy.

Developed in collaboration with Parlux Ltd., the new fragrance builds on the global success of Eilish, Eilish No. 2, and the limited-edition Eilish No. 3.

“Since our partnership with Billie and her team began, she has always maintained authenticity in all she does as an artist and creative, and Your Turn is a perfect example of this,” said Lori Singer, president of Parlux Ltd. 

“The process was a beautiful collaboration, from the juice creation to the bottle’s design. We couldn’t be more thrilled about what we’ve accomplished with our partners, especially as we begin this next stage of Billie Eilish Fragrances as a master brand.”

Since entering the fragrance market in 2021, Billie Eilish Fragrances has achieved impressive sales milestones and secured a strong presence in the competitive fragrance industry through direct-to-consumer sales, Ulta Beauty, and global retail partners.

“Creating Your Turn with Billie was a journey of discovery,” added Frank Voelkl, principal Perfumer at Firmenich. “We worked through countless iterations to develop a scent that captures the warmth and richness of sandalwood while layering in something unexpectedly fresh. It’s a fragrance that reflects Billie vision of individuality and uniqueness.”

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Naomi Campbell says will appeal charity watchdog’s ban

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February 6, 2025

Former supermodel Naomi Campbell said Wednesday she will appeal against a UK watchdog ban on being a charity trustee, suggesting “fake identities” had wrongly implicated her in a funding scandal.

Naomi Campbell – AFP

The Charity Commission last year banned the 54-year-old from running any charity for five years after identifying “multiple instances of misconduct” in the running of her Fashion for Relief organisation.

It found charity money had been used to pay for Campbell to stay in a five-star hotel in the south of France, including spa treatments and room service.

The ex-supermodel at the time branded the watchdog’s findings “deeply flawed” and insisted that newly-instructed advisers were investigating what happened at the charity.

In a statement released late Wednesday, she said a tribunal had granted her permission to appeal the commission’s findings “after considering the evidence I have submitted”.

“Ever since the commission’s report, I have fought to uncover the facts. What has been unearthed so far is shocking,” Campbell stated.

“I want to shine a light on how easy it is to fake identities online and prevent anybody else going through what I have been through.”

Campbell insisted she had “never undertaken philanthropic work for personal gain, nor will I ever do so”.

The case is due to come before the tribunal on Friday, according to Britain’s domestic Press Association news agency.

Campbell’s representatives claim documents submitted to the commission gave a false impression of her involvement in running the UK charity, the agency said.

They argue there is evidence of a fake email account which was used to impersonate the former supermodel in communications with lawyers, it added.

Campbell founded the charity in 2005, aiming to harness the fashion industry to relieve poverty and advance health and education, by making grants to other organisations and giving resources towards global disasters.

But the watchdog probe published last September found that between April 2016 and July 2022, only 8.5 percent of Fashion for Relief’s overall expenditure went on grants to charities.

The charity was dissolved and removed from the register of charities last year, with two other trustees also receiving bans.

At the time, Campbell said she was “extremely concerned” by the regulator’s findings and that she was “not in control of my charity” having “put the control in the hands of a lawyer”

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Decathlon benefiting from Uighur forced labour in China, say French media reports

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Nicola Mira

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February 6, 2025

French sport retailer Decathlon, owned by the Mulliez group, has been accused by investigative journalism NGO Disclose and French TV programme “Cash Investigation” of having as a subcontractor in China a company exploiting Uighur labour, which Decathlon denies, and of sourcing cotton from the Xinjiang region, the AFP agency learnt on Thursday.

Mulliez-owned Decathlon has been accused by Disclose and French TV programme Cash Investigation of having as a subcontractor in China a company exploiting Uighur labour – Martin LELIEVRE / AFP/Archives

Decathlon has been accused by the two media outlets of sourcing textiles from Qingdao Jifa Group, a company that “relies on a forced labour network in China,” reported Disclose in an article published on Thursday morning.

In the Cash Investigation documentary to be broadcast Thursday evening, which AFP was able to view, a local executive stated that cotton stored at the warehouse of a company producing for Decathlon might come from Xinjiang, the region where the Muslim Uighur people are the main ethnic group.

Decathlon’s communication department confirmed it is sourcing goods from Qingdao Jifa, while also stating to AFP that “we strongly condemn all forms of forced labour. We are committed on a daily basis to ensuring integrity and respect for fundamental rights in our business operations and value chain, and we will not hesitate to react and take all the necessary measures if the facts were to be proven.”

The same source said that “100% of the cotton used by Decathlon in manufacturing its products comes from sources committed to sustainable practices, guaranteeing the absence of any form of forced labour, and including organic and recycled cotton.”

In the past, Xinjiang has been hit by bloody attacks attributed by the authorities to Islamists and separatists, and China has launched a huge security campaign in the region, labelling it as counter-terrorism. According to claims by NGOs and Western studies, which AFP wasn’t able to verify, Uighurs are being subjected to forced labour practices.

In 2020, the United Nations published an alarming report on the plight of the Muslim minority in Xinjiang. A publication that came in the wake of an alert issued in 2020 by the Australian Strategic Policy Institute, and was followed the same year by a document from the Center for Global Policy denouncing a more serious involvement of fashion industry players than previously reported. Amnesty International hammered the point home in 2021, after more than 180 associations and trade unions had formed the Coalition to End Forced Labour in the Uighur Region. 

Cash Investigation mentioned products bearing the logo of the US pro basketball league, the NBA, of which Decathlon has been a partner since 2021. Decathlon claims to be licensed to sell products “in the livery of the NBA and its franchises,” and to do so “in over 1,700 Decathlon stores worldwide and online,” in Africa, Asia, Europe, the Middle East and Latin America.

The US Congress passed a law in December 2021 prohibiting all product imports from the Xinjiang region, unless companies in the region are able to prove that their manufacturing activity does not involve forced labour.

Cash Investigation is also interested in the legal status of the Mulliez family’s empire, which includes retailers such as Leroy Merlin, Kiabi, Flunch, Boulanger and Auchan, all controlled by the Association familiale Mulliez (AFM), a collective body that doesn’t identify as a consolidated group.

At the end of 2024, Auchan announced an extensive redundancy plan threatening 2,400 jobs in France, but other AFM-controlled retailers, like Decathlon, enjoy a more solid financial position, and the unions have called for redeploying Auchan employees in them.

Given the situation, Decathlon shocked its employee representatives by distributing €1 billion in shareholder dividends at the end of 2024.

(with AFP)

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