Chanel continues to strengthen its presence in Italian manufacturing. Over the years, the French house has acquired several Italian footwear and leather goods manufacturers, including Ballin, Mabi International, Roveda, and Gensi Group, while also taking stakes in key players across the fashion supply chain. Today, the maison announced the acquisition of a majority stake in Grey Mer, its long-standing footwear production partner.
Chanel acquires a majority stake in Italian footwear specialist, Grey Mer. – greymer.it
“Chanel confirms the acquisition of a majority stake in Grey Mer. The two companies have collaborated for 13 years, producing footwear for collections designed by the Chanel Studio,” read the statement sent by the maison to FashionNetwork.com. “Since its founding nearly 45 years ago by the Alessandri family, Grey Mer has cultivated exceptional craftsmanship and continuously evolved to meet the demands of its clients. Faced with the need to secure its production capacity, Chanel naturally chose to strengthen its partnership with this trusted manufacturer, marking a new chapter in its history.”
The financial details of the transaction have not been disclosed. However, as confirmed to FashionNetwork.com by Grey Mer’s management, Chanel has acquired 70% of the company’s capital, while the remaining 30% remains with the founding Alessandri family.
Founded in 1980 in San Mauro Pascoli (FC) by Luciano Alessandri, the company is now led by his daughter Perla, who serves as CEO. Her sisters, Margherita and Antonia, oversee production and communications, respectively.
In 2023, Grey Mer, which employs around 100 people, recorded a turnover of €34 million.
M&S’s fashion operations are bouncing back with a vengeance and the newly-confident retailer has unveiled the spring collection and the campaign that it hopes will drive sales growth further.
We’re told the ‘Love That’ campaign “marks a step change in season with a bold and stylish statement, focused on spreading joy through style, and encouraging individuals to embrace the uplifting energy that comes with spring”.
The retailer said it’s celebrating “how a well curated look that makes you feel good on the inside, can positively impact those around you — creating a ripple effect of happiness”.
The ad “captures the journey of a compliment as it reverberates from woman to woman. It begins with a subtle, almost unspoken exchange, gradually building in strength and culminating in an openly expressed compliment. Closing with a close-up of a woman’s lips, gently curling into the beginnings of a smile, symbolising the warmth and connection created by a kind word — championing the powerful ripple effect of giving compliments and leaving viewers with a sense of joy and a desire to keep the positivity flowing”.
The campaign includes daytime and evening looks “from jackets so iconic you’ll want to double up, to shoes you’ll fall head over heels for”.
So, let’s look at the practical details. The campaign includes 10-second and 30-second AV content, set to the upbeat R&B track 1 Thing by Amerie, the visual narrative aiming to “reinforce our position as a leading destination for stylish, quality clothing”.
Running across VOD, billboards, digital and social platforms, it should reach an estimated 183 million people across all channels.
The retailer’s OOH presence “will dominate” London, Manchester, Glasgow, Newcastle, Leeds, Liverpool, Sheffield and Bristol, with London TFL escalator ribbons in Tottenham Court Road and Bond Street tube stations, billboards across London Underground, and fly posters in “high-impact locations, maximising visibility”.
It will also exist as a “takeover” on its own webstore, as well as in-store.
Fashion e-tail giant ASOS announced a date for its half-year results on Friday (they’re due on 24 April) but more importantly it issued the briefest of brief trading updates and the news looked good.
ASOS Arrange
The company reiterated that — as it had said in its November update — it expects “a significant improvement in profitability in H1 FY25, despite continued volume deleverage, following a strong gross margin development driven by lower markdown activity and increased full-price mix, and continued cost discipline”.
In fact, it expects revenue growth in line with, and adjusted EBITDA ahead of the consensus among analysts. The company-compiled consensus for the first half (as of this week) is for total sales growth in constant currency to be 13%, while adjusted EBITDA should be £34 million and the adjusted EBITDA margin 2.6%.
Behind those dry figures, ASOS added that it was encouraged by the fact that “own-brand full-price sales, a core engine of its customer proposition, returned to growth in the first half. This was enabled by its market-leading Test & React model, now more than 15% of own-brand sales and growing”.
It’s all upbeat news for a business that has been somewhat battered by intense competition and consumer caution since the glory days of the pandemic-driven e-tail boom.
Just-bought discount retailer TOFS (The Original Factory Shop) could see its UK store count drastically reduced.
TOFS
New owner Modella Capital is contemplating a Company Voluntary Arrangement (CVA) to close a number of its 180 retail units, according to Sky News.
The variety retailer, which sells a number of major brands including L’Oreal beauty and Adidas sportswear, was acquired last month from private equity firm Duke Street for an undisclosed sum. Modella’s now understood to be in talks with business adviser Interpath on options for the retail group, including a potential CVA, which would result in cutting the retailer’s 1,800-strong workforce.
At the same time, Modella is also drawing up plans for a radical restructuring of the retailer. This will also include discussions with landlords over rent reductions for a number of surviving stores. Reports also claim a TOFS distribution centre will be a focus of those restructuring plans.
TOFS, which was founded in 1969 and then acquired by Duke Street in 2007 for £68.5 million, is understood to had also come under the bidding scrutiny of usual suspect Frasers Group, Baaj Capital and Poundstretcher, which is owned by the investment group Fortress the report also said.