From December 5 to January 7, 2026, the Mobilier National will present the exhibition “Ce Qui Se Trame – Histoires Tissées Entre l’Inde et la France”, a project devoted to artistic and technical exchanges between France and India through textiles.
The event brings together several major players: 19M, the Métiers d’art cluster founded by Maison Chanel, the French Embassy in India via the Villa Swagatam programme, and designer Christian Louboutin, who oversees the artistic direction and scenography, drawing on his experience of India.
DR
Guest curator Mayank Mansingh Kaul is responsible for the conceptual narrative, the organisation of the sections and the selection of works. To coincide with the exhibition, Lesage Intérieurs, a resident house at 19M specialising in embroidery and textile decoration, is organising a participatory workshop from December 4 to 7 focused on creating an embroidered Indigo Tree of Life. Conceived as a collective project, it will enable visitors to discover embroidery techniques while contributing to a shared artwork inspired by historical exchanges between India and Europe.
The exhibition is organised around seven successive spaces: L’Antichambre, Toiles blanches, Modes indiennes, Le fil d’or, Le chic à l’indienne, Sculpter les corps and, finally, Un langage universel.
The exhibition opens with L’Antichambre, a space showcasing artistic and commercial exchanges between India and France. It is a reproduction of an 18th-century French apartment, entirely lined with an Indian textile. Louboutin will use this setting to immerse visitors in history through a traditional 18th-century motif, created especially for the exhibition by artisans from the House of Kandadu. They worked entirely by hand, using age-old techniques such as block printing and natural dyes. The exterior of this room takes its inspiration from Indian nomadic tents. It is covered in Toile de Jouy, a French fabric that originally grew out of Indian printing techniques.
The next section, Toiles Blanches, returns to the essentials: fibres and threads. Shown without colour, they evoke the different meanings of white in Indian and French cultures. On display are hand-spun and hand-woven Indian cotton muslins, which transformed women’s fashion in France in the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as French embroidery, embellishments and handmade lace.
With Modes Indiennes, the exhibition looks back at the arrival in France, from the 17th century onward, of hand-painted and hand-printed cotton fabrics. These fabrics, first called palampores or chintz, later inspired the creation of “indiennes”, a type of textile that became very popular in France. Their floral and botanical motifs blend the styles of both cultures. The works on display show how these fabrics were used in clothing and interiors of the time, and also explain the origin of the French paisley motif, inspired by Kashmir shawls.
In Le Fil d’Or, visitors discover brocades, precious fabrics hand-woven from silk and metallic threads. Lyon was long the principal French centre for these textiles, and the invention of the Jacquard loom in the 19th century transformed their production worldwide. The exhibition shows the influence of this innovation on Indian textiles, particularly in Varanasi, through works that combine tradition and contemporary creation.
Le Chic à l’Indienne begins at the foot of the gallery staircase, with a colourful textile installation inspired by the sari. This traditional garment, over two thousand years old, is reinterpreted here by the Indian brand Raw Mango, known for modernising the sari while working with numerous artisans. This section explores the interplay between French haute couture and Indian fashion, and shows how textiles can shape the body. The large panels in the room come from The Flowers We Grew project, created by the Chanakya School of Craft with artist Rithika Merchant.
In Sculpter Les Corps, the exhibition focuses on artists who use textile craftsmanship within a contemporary practice. The works show how textiles can become sculptural and address social and political issues. The techniques used are varied, and artists from India and France explore the body, texture, volume and drape. Works by Mrinalini Mukherjee, Simone Pheulpin, Sheila Hicks, the Ateliers Chanakya collective and Jeanne Vicerial are on display.
DR
Finally, the exhibition closes with Un Langage Universel, a salon inspired by India and entirely covered in denim. This fabric, developed in Nîmes in the 19th century using indigo from India, is now produced predominantly there. This space invites visitors to reflect on the enduring links between India and France. It includes the After Paris tapestry by Indian artist Viswanadhan, woven at the Gobelins, and a reminder of Le Corbusier’s work in India, notably in Chandigarh.
This article is an automatic translation. Click here to read the original article.
UK footfall down in November? Blame the Budget and bad weather. Those two important factors damaged shoppers’ desire to venture out, resulting in an albeit slender 0.8% year-on-year dip in footfall last month, with all types of destinations suffering. It was also the seventh consecutive footfall decline, noted the latest British Retail Consortium (BRC)/Sensormatic report
Image: Nigel Taylor
That meant visits to high streets were down 1.2% in November and down from a 0.6% rise in October; shopping centre footfall dipped 1.3% last month, down from a 0.9% dip in October; and retail park visits were down 0.4% in November, but were better than a 0.5% dip in October.
The BRC also noted that November’s Storm Claudia prompted many consumers to search online for Black Friday deals throughout November, leading some to not visit physical stores on Black Friday.
But there was good news, with some northern UK cities – including Manchester and Sheffield – continuing to buck the trend, “recording positive footfall for the eighth consecutive month”.
So with many shoppers holding off on store visits until this month, Helen Dickinson, chief executive of the British Retail Consortium, said: “With the Golden Quarter in full swing, retailers are continuing to invest what they can to entice customers into stores over Christmas.
“However, as we approach the New Year, given the downward trend in footfall across recent years, we need a comprehensive strategy to revitalise our high streets and shopping centres, from better transport, affordable parking, to a reformed planning system to enable faster, better development.”
Andy Sumpter, Retail Consultant EMEA for Sensormatic, added: “November may have been dominated by caution, but there are glimmers of hope. The Golden Quarter isn’t over yet, and with four of our predicted Top Five shopping days still to come, the festive season could deliver the lift retailers need. A last-minute rush may top off the year, turning caution into celebration. With the right balance of value, convenience, and experience, there’s still time to make December count.”
The world’s largest fashion retailer staged a stock-market comeback this week as Inditex SA’s push to differentiate itself from fierce ultra-low-price competition shows signs of bearing fruit.
Inside a Zara store – Zara
The owner of Zara, Bershka, and Massimo Dutti has seen its shares jump 14%, putting them on track for their best week in five years. Strong third-quarter results, coupled with accelerating November sales, were seen as evidence of the company’s resilience against weaker consumer sentiment.
This week’s surge put the stock on course for an annual gain, after what had previously looked like a lacklustre 2025. Inditex- whose second-largest market is the US- had been punished for its exposure to tariffs and a weaker greenback, amid concerns about softening consumer demand and intensifying competition from Chinese fast-fashion firms.
While its 10% rise this year trails the 50% jump for UK retailer Next Plc and the 19% gain at Sweden’s Hennes & Mauritz AB, Inditex is now outperforming the broader European retail sector. Analysts have welcomed the firm’s push to steer its Zara and Massimo Dutti brands further into the premium segment as it seeks to outmuscle competitors such as Shein and Temu. “The strategy is not to chase ultra-low prices, but to deliver premium-looking products at a good-value price point,” Alphavalue analyst Jie Zhang wrote in a note.
After this week’s rally, Inditex is trading at a substantially higher valuation than peers at 26 times forward earnings- on par with luxury behemoth LVMH. The firm’s strong third-quarter earnings reinforce “the quality of the business and will make investors question whether the right peer group for this company is luxury rather than retail in our view,” said Deutsche Bank AG analyst Adam Cochrane.
Inditex’s latest trading update spurred upward earnings revisions and price target upgrades, with more bullishness among brokers likely to follow, as the current consensus 12-month forward price target doesn’t leave any room for further upside. “These growth levels should provide reassurance of the continued opportunity for outperformance, including into 2026,” said JPMorgan & Chase Co. analyst Georgina Johanan.
A partnership between Agromethod Labs and CITEVE is advancing hydroponic cotton cultivation, a project that could make Portugal the only country in Europe to host the entire cotton value chain, from fibre to clothing.
Agromethod Labs was founded earlier this year with the mission of developing more sustainable, future-oriented agricultural solutions. Its founder, Raquel Maria, a chemist by training with a long track record in academic research, explains that the impetus to create thestart-upstemmed from a personal concern.
“Academia allows us to change the world on a small scale. I felt it was time to bring that knowledge into the real world and have a greater impact on future generations,” she told Portugal Têxtil.
Although Agromethod Labs works across several fields, cotton quickly stood out, building on previous research, notably by researcher Filipe Natálio, currently at the Applied Biomolecular Sciences Unit (UCIBIO) of the School of Science and Technology at Universidade Nova de Lisboa (NOVA FCT). “But we want to continue working on other types of crops and other seeds. Agromethod Labs is bigger than cotton,” she says.
Approaching CITEVE marked a turning point. According to the founder, the hydroponic cotton project “was very much on paper” and required initial investment and a solid technological partner. “CITEVE was decisive. It came along at the right time and finally gave us the opportunity to get started with something that we had already thought about extensively, but which was not yet in a position to move forward,” she says.
The collaboration has made it possible to implement a functional mini pilot, already with measurable results, and to prepare the next phase: a larger-scale pilot that will incorporate vertical farming to maximise the production area.
Advantages and challenges
Hydroponic cultivation offers significant advantages, notes Raquel Maria. “We can grow anywhere in the world, without reliance on sunlight and without geographical limitations,” she explains. It also enables continuous production. “We are no longer limited to a single annual harvest. We can get three or four harvests a year,” she says.
Early results also show improvements in the fibre. “We have obtained cotton with better mechanical properties and greater whiteness, which can reduce some stages in textile processing,” says Raquel Maria.
Even so, the founder of Agromethod Labs recognises that there are challenges, particularly in terms of costs, since this cultivation technique is more expensive. However, incorporating vertical farming in the new pilot could help. “If we double the production area, we can get closer to the economic viability we want,” she believes. Considering the higher costs and added value of the fibre, the raw material produced “in the initial phase will be directed to specialised markets,” she says.
The small-scale production carried out in a room at CITEVE has already made it possible to produce yarn from hydroponic cotton. The next symbolic goal will be “to make a T-shirt and be able to say that it was made with cotton produced in Portugal would be wonderful,” confesses Raquel Maria.
With expansion planned for the next six months, the aim will be to significantly increase production and take an important step closer to the market. According to the founder of Agromethod Labs, the Portuguese textile industry has already started to show enthusiasm. “There have been several expressions of interest. We are completely open to collaborating with Portuguese companies,” she says.
However, the ambition goes beyond fibre production. “Portugal could be the only country in Europe to have the entire value chain- from raw material to end product- in a single territory. That would be a milestone for the country,” concludes Raquel Maria.
This article is an automatic translation. Click here to read the original article.