UK fashion will have a new label this spring with the debut of Akyn. And the creative force behind it? Amy Powney, who’s best known as creative director of Mother of Pearl.
Powney, who’s also well know for her sustainability commitment, has stepped down from Mother of Pearl to launch Akyn this May. Her former label has now closed and anyone who looks for it online is taken straight to the Akyn website that says “coming soon”.
We don’t know much about Akyn style-wise, apart from that it will be “crafting elevated, contemporary womenswear”.
It’s a big move as she’d been at Mother of Pearl for 19 years. But her new label looks set to continue the work she started when she converted Mother of Pearl into one of UK fashion’s most eco-focused brands.
Powney said Akyn will be “purpose-driven” and “grounded in elevated design and sustainability”. She added that wants to use her “voice and expertise on a wider scale, creating deeper impact and striving for continued and meaningful change within the industry”.
Mother of Pearl was founded by Maia Norman in 2002 and after joining in 2006 and working her way up in the business, Powney became both its creative chief and its minority co-owner, helping to edge it away from its original print-focused positioning and artist collabs to its more minimalist style and high-profile eco strategy.
Her work in this direction was the focus of the Fashion Reimagined documentary in 2023 that followed her push to make the label more sustainable.
“As creative director and partner of Akyn, Amy will be able to use her voice and expertise on a wider scale, creating deeper impact and striving for continued and meaningful change within the industry,” a statement released to announce the forthcoming launch said.
Administrators of bankrupt Signa Prime Selection AG are preparing to launch the sale of the Vienna Park Hyatt and adjoining luxury retail premises, including Prada’s flagship store, according to people familiar with the matter.
Real estate investment bank Eastdil Secured LLC has been appointed to offer the properties that are expected to attract bids in the region of €350 million ($361 million) to €370 million, two people said, asking not to be identified as the process is not yet public. The 146-room hotel accounts for roughly half of that price tag, with the luxury stores adjacent to another Signa asset, the so-called Golden Quarter, making up the other, they said.
The properties have about €155 million of debt secured against them from German pension fund Bayerische Versorgungskammer, one of the people said. Signa had valued the building at €422 million in a 2022 presentation to investors seen by Bloomberg.
Representatives for Signa Prime’s insolvency administrator and Eastdil declined to comment.
The launch of the sale process will coincide with the annual Mipim property conference in the second week of March, an annual gathering of real estate investors in Cannes attended by Signa founder Rene Benko in the past. It comes after a spate of recent Signa sales including the Upper West tower in Berlin and the Viennese palais that houses Austria’s Constitutional Court.
The unraveling of Benko’s Austrian property empire has provided a rare source of high-profile deals at a time when Europe’s real estate markets grapple with higher interest rates. Would-be sellers have been reluctant to offer properties for sale after the spike in borrowing costs impacted valuations, preferring to cling on and hope for a recovery rather than crystallizing losses.
Hotels have been a rare bright spot amid the commercial real estate gloom, with the management agreements on which they typically operate helping to shield landlords from inflation. That’s because room rates can adjust immediately to higher costs in contrast to offices or stores that are typically held on long-term leases with fixed rents.
Hyatt Hotels Corp. has a long-term management agreement for the property, offering some of Vienna’s priciest accommodation. The 820 square meter (8,826 square feet) Royal Penthouse Suite is available for $13,200 per night, including taxes, according to a listing on Expedia.
Benko is in pre-trial detention as prosecutors investigate suspected fraud. He has denied wrongdoing.
Signa Prime’s administrators have been attempting to claw back cash for creditors through property sales, as well as seeking damages and repayments from former managers and business partners. Asset sales have been complicated by the company’s complex debt structure.
L’Oréal Groupe announced on Monday the appointment of Christina (Tina) Fair as president of the consumer products division (CPD) for the North America Zone.
Fair succeeds Nathalie Gerschtein, who is stepping down to pursue new opportunities outside L’Oréal Groupe.
“I’m thrilled that Tina will now be taking the helm of our Consumer Products Division and our extraordinary portfolio of Consumer Division beauty brands, including L’Oréal Paris, Maybelline New York, Garnier, Essie, and NYX Professional Makeup,” said David Greenberg, CEO of L’Oréal USA and president of the North America Zone, who Fair will report to, alongside Alexis Perakis-Valat, president of the consumer products division for L’Oréal Groupe.
“I have seen Tina step change every business she has run as we have witnessed with the dermatological beauty division under Tina’s leadership. Her strategic vision, bold decision-making, and entrepreneurial mindset position her and the division for continued success.”
Fair joined L’Oréal in 2008 and has held leadership roles within the U.S. consumer products division, including senior marketing positions with Garnier and Maybelline New York. In 2015, she led global marketing for SkinCeuticals before becoming U.S. general manager for the brand.
Most recently, since 2020, Fair has served as president of L’Oréal Dermatological Beauty (LDB) in the North America Zone. Under her leadership, LDB became the group’s third-largest U.S. division, with brands like CeraVe, La Roche-Posay, SkinCeuticals, Skinbetter Science, and Vichy achieving significant sales growth and increased market share. LDB’s products became top recommendations among dermatologists, pediatricians, and pharmacists.
U.S. President Donald Trump‘s initial tariff actions against Canada, Mexico and China sparked a rise in broad market volatility and a rush to take guard against increased ructions across asset classes from stocks to currencies.
The U.S. President’s weekend orders for additional levies of 25% on imports from Mexico and most goods from Canada, as well as 10% on goods from China, jolted markets surprised by the speed and intensity of these moves so soon after his inauguration.
Analysts estimate the tariffs could raise the risk of a sharp slowdown in global growth, resurgent inflation and a pause to Federal Reserve rate cuts, prompting a bout of risk aversion from investors.
The Cboe Volatility Index – an options-based gauge of investor expectation for near-term stock market moves – jumped to a 1-week high of 20.41, before paring gains to trade up 2 points at 18.43. While that is still below the index’s long-term average of 19.4, it is well above its average reading over the past year of 15.8.
Currency markets were also roiled with an across the board rise in implied volatility – a measure of how much the market expects prices to fluctuate in the future. Volatility expectations for currencies directly in Trump’s crosshairs saw the biggest surge, but other major pairs including the euro-dollar saw a rise in expectation for future moves.
One-month implied volatility for the dollar/Mexican peso pair jumped to 15.6, the highest since mid November, and about 3 points higher than its 5-year average. Meanwhile, implied volatility for the dollar/Canadian dollar pair soared as high as 9.3, its highest since November 2022.
While volatility expectations for various assets had ticked up in the days before the tariffs announcement and various currencies had weakened against the dollar on expectations for tariff-related headlines, the intensity of the market reaction to the weekend headlines shows investors were not quite prepared for it, analysts said.
“Generally speaking, investors were not taking Trump seriously or literally … the announcement on Saturday as well as comments after that have compelled investors to reassess the risk,” Karl Schamotta, chief market strategist with payments company Corpay in Toronto, said.
Adding to the uncertainty is the possibility that some sort of deal is arrived at between the U.S. and other countries that allows for tariffs to be averted in a lasting way.
The Mexican peso, which had plunged to a near three-year low against the dollar on news of the impending tariffs, reversed course to trade up 0.5% on the day after Trump said he would pause new tariffs on Mexico for one month.
“The headlines come at you very fast,” Mandy Xu head of derivatives market intelligence at Cboe Global Markets, said. “I think this unpredictability is partly what is driving this huge surge in option volume that we’re seeing so far,” she said.