Bob Mackie, the American fashion designer and costumer renowned for creating show-stopping looks for stars such as Cher, Carol Burnett, Elton John and Taylor Swift, has filed a lawsuit against JCPenney. The designer alleges that the retailer used his name, signature and likeness without permission to market apparel.

In a complaint filed on Wednesday night in Manhattan federal court, the 85-year-old designer stated that he was astonished when JCPenney launched its “Mackie: Bob Mackie” collection last month, despite his having no involvement in the project.

Mackie accused the retailer of timing the launch to coincide with the release of Swift’s newest album, “The Life of a Showgirl,” whose artwork features a costume he designed.

He said he would never have collaborated with JCPenney because of “legitimate concerns” that it would diminish his name and reputation, adding that the company ignored a cease-and-desist letter from his representatives.

Catalyst Brands, which owns JCPenney, did not immediately respond to requests for comment on Thursday.

Mackie also stated that he believed JCPenney might have contracted with Bob Mackie Design Group, where he is a minority shareholder, but that neither the entity nor its only other shareholder had the authority to grant a license.

Bob Mackie Design Group and a spokeswoman for Mackie both declined to comment on Thursday.

The lawsuit seeks unspecified damages for false advertising and false association under the federal Lanham trademark law, as well as for violating Mackie’s right of publicity and deceiving consumers.

Mackie’s legendary career includes designing some of pop culture’s most iconic looks — from Cher’s black “loin cloth” ensemble at the 1986 Academy Awards to Burnett’s curtain-rod gown from the “Went with the Wind” sketch on her television show, and Elton John’s extravagant Donald Duck and Mozart concert costumes.