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Jacqueline Riu, leading figure in modern ready-to-wear fashion, dies aged 91

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October 30, 2025

Jacqueline Riu, founder of the eponymous brand that became Riu Paris, passed away on 28 October at the age of 91. From the opening of her first boutique to the sale of her brand to the Deveaux group in 2013, she was both a driving force and a witness to the transformations of French fashion since the post-war era.

Jacqueline Riu – DR

Born on January 21, 1934, Riu began her career by opening a franchised multi-brand shop, “La Gaminerie”. Located on Boulevard Saint-Germain, her selection included names such as Max Mara, Infinitif, Théorème, Georges Rech and Cathy Mini. It was during this period that she developed a strategy focused on more frequent range refreshes, more accessible pricing and rigorous stock management.

She put this approach into practice in 1971 with the opening of the first shop under her own name, in Thiais, within the Belle-Épine shopping centre. Together with her husband, Michel Riu, she also capitalised on the rapid development of shopping centres—then an innovative concept in France—to popularise her collections, which were manufactured from the Maghreb to Asia, via Turkey and Eastern Europe.

“Jacqueline Riu is a witness to the transformation of retail, from multi-brand shops to accessible fashion chains, integrating product design teams and diversifying production sources around the world according to the expertise developed by each country,” her daughters, Sabine Chiche and Véronique Jouary, said in a statement.

Both joined their mother at the company in 1999, when a management board and a supervisory board were established. During this period, the brand gradually grew from 60 to 250 stores, notably with the creation of a subsidiary in Poland and the development of franchises in Saudi Arabia and Réunion.

Jacqueline Riu
Jacqueline Riu – DR

In June 2013, employing 2,000 people, operating 220 stores and generating €120 million in revenue, the company was sold to the Armand Thierry chain, owned by the Deveaux group, which aimed to make it the cornerstone of a leading French ready-to-wear group.

In 2016, part of the network took the name Riu Paris. The company, which communicates sparingly, is now said to have around a hundred locations across France, as well as an online shop. To this day, the brand remains true to its founder’s vision of accessibility, offering creative pieces in sizes 36 to 48 and maintaining a mid-market positioning.

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Jean-Charles de Castelbajac to stage mammoth retrospective in Toulouse

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November 10, 2025

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac will stage a mammoth retrospective in Toulouse, entitled ‘L’Imagination au pouvoir,’ or ‘Imagination at work,’ to be presented in the French city’s Les Abattoirs Museum.

Bettina Rheims, Ghislaine Thesmar, and dancers from the Ballet de l’Opéra de Paris, Spring-Summer 1982, “Homage to Comic Books” collection – Bettina Rheims / Adagp, Paris, 2025

 
This important compilation of fashion, accessories, design, collages, and fine art works by one of France’s great iconoclastic creators will be staged in Toulouse from December 12 to August 23, 2026.
 
The exhibition brings together nearly 300 works, including clothing, design objects, drawings, and photographs, retracing six decades of creation by a visionary artist who pioneered the breaking down of barriers between art, fashion, and popular culture.

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and the paraments designed for the reopening of the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris, 2024
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and the paraments designed for the reopening of the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris, 2024 – Philippe Garcia

 
L’Imagination au pouvoir offers an immersive journey, punctuated by an original composition by Vladimir Cauchemar, and highlights the artist’s iconic collaborations—from Keith Haring to Robert Mapplethorpe, Lady Gaga to Malcolm McLaren—as well as de Castelbajac’s recent works created for Notre-Dame de Paris.

“Starting in 1980, I began using the primary colours red, blue, and yellow, the banners of pop culture, as well as logos, cartoons, and slogans, as a contemporary response to my passion for medieval heraldry and history. This limited colour palette became my signature, a stylistic imprint, a link between all my creative experiences, from my pop knitting work, the beginnings of streetwear, to sacred art at the 1997 World Youth Day and the reopening of Notre-Dame de Paris in 2024,” said 75-year-old Jean-Charles in a release, referring to the official vestments he created for the clergy for the reopening of the legendary cathedral. Examples of which feature in the retrospective.

'Elektrocute' fashion show, Autumn-Winter2007-2008
“Elektrocute” fashion show, Autumn-Winter2007-2008 – Guy Marineau

 
Among the iconic images in the exhibition are his famed teddy bear coats from 1988, one of which was worn by Madonna; and the graphic sequined column-dress from 1985 that read, “Je suis toute nue en dessous,” in English: “I am fully naked underneath.”
 
It also features portraits by Oliviero Toscani of Andy Warhol and Vivienne Westwood wearing de Castelbajac creations. All the way to historic objects, from his multi-coloured rainbow moccasins for Weston to his collectors’ item Totem lamps.
 
More power to his imagination.
 

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Hammerson says Les 3 Fontaines upgrade is fully pre-let

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November 10, 2025

It’s not just major UK shopping centres that are enjoying strong letting percentages. As part of its ongoing repositioning, Northern France’s Les 3 Fontaines has now fully pre-let 110,000 sq ft of outstanding retail space, operator Hammerson said.

Image: Hammerson

The final unit has been signed for a Nike store which will join Primark as anchor tenants when the new stores opens in 2027.

Located in Cergy, Val d’Oise, the Les 3 Fontaines destination comprises 1 million sq ft of prime retail space, including 350,000 sq ft added in 2022. 

Between then and 2024, annual footfall has risen 15%, reaching 13 million annual visits. Growth continues, with year-on-year visitor numbers up a further 3.4% so far in 2025, Hammerson said.

Other recently-signed retail brands include Aroma-Zone, a leading natural beauty brand in France, while Inter-Actif, an official Apple Premium Partner, will also open next month.

Since the beginning of the year, 20 long-term leases have also been completed with €36 million (£31.60 million) in contracted rents.

The destination features 200 occupiers, including Sephora, Adidas, Mango, Footlocker, and Zara.

Grégoire Peureux, chief operating officer at Hammerson, commented: “Achieving 100% pre-letting for this latest repositioning epitomises our asset and leasing strategy. Our success is driven by creating attractive spaces that generate demand, broaden the appeal of our destinations, and grow rental income and value.  With further openings and more leasing to come, our momentum continues.”

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Livy appoints founder Lisa Chavy as managing director, plans retail expansion in London and Italy

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November 10, 2025

Growing your own business is a difficult art. This year, French premium lingerie label Livy is expected to top the €24 million mark in gross revenue, driven by rising organic sales and new store openings in France and abroad.

A look from Livy’s Signatures range – Livy

Livy’s strictly French success story in the high-end lingerie segment began in 2017 with founder Lisa Chavy, backed by the Etam and Vog groups. In order to bolster its development, last year Livy hired Julie Pellet, formerly head of growth, product marketing Southern Europe, at Meta, as managing director. Just under a year later, and even if Livy is still thriving, Pellet has stepped down from the post. “We’re still very much on the same wavelength, but I think it was a little early in the company’s trajectory to introduce a managing director role,” said Chavy. “I’m upgrading [Livy’s] staff’s skills, and we’re recruiting new heads of retail, wholesale and digital,” she added.

Livy has hired Audrey Azria, formerly in charge of retail for western Europe at British lingerie brand Agent Provocateur, a sign that Livy is planning to expand the footprint of its collections, which blend glam lingerie, ready-to-wear and chic lifestyle products. The new heads of digital and wholesale will be tasked with boosting Livy’s online business and forging relationships with new partners, notably with international department store chains.

Earlier this year, Livy carried out a funding round to support its expansion plans, and is now tweaking its market positioning to a more upmarket one than in its early days. It will also need to revamp its store fleet in order to fit with the new positioning. “We’ve closed the stores in Beaugrenelle and Passy in Paris, which were no longer consistent with our style. We’re now performing best [with stores] placed alongside those of luxury labels. We’ve opened in Monte Carlo and Nice, because our swimwear range is extremely successful. In Saint-Tropez, we increased our revenue by two and a half times over the previous year, and we’ve had good results in Marbella,” said Chavy.

In the same vein, Livy is set to open in the Alpine resort of Courchevel this winter, and is planning further expansion outside France, aiming to open a second store in London, and new stores in Milan and Rome.

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