The United States’ new 15% tariffs on the European Union (EU) just came into force on September 1, and the textile and clothing sector is concerned, hoping that it will be able to amend this agreement with the U.S. to lower the products that will pay tariffs above 15%. This is because products that paid a lower rate than the one currently in force will now pay 15%, while items that paid higher rates will not stop paying them.
Reuters
According to the Director-General of the Textile Association of Portugal (ATP), Ana Dinis, “it’s been a difficult process,” she told ECO, assuring that “negotiations are still ongoing” and regretting that “today they say one thing and tomorrow they say another.” However, ATP is not giving up and “at any moment, for better or for worse, the sector could have news,” Dinis added.
The President of the National Association of Clothing and Apparel Industries (Anivec), César Araújo, who also owns Calvelex, explained to ECO that “there are various interpretations” and “it’s not certain that products that paid rates of more than 15% will pay more or remain the same.”
According to ATP data, Portugal exported 435 million euros in textile and clothing products to the U.S. in 2024, with the U.S. market accounting for 8% of the sector’s total exports and revenues of around 500 million euros.
ATP also reported that the U.S. tariffs could lead to the dismissal of 10,000 textile workers in Portugal, accounting for more than 6,000 companies in the textile and clothing sector throughout Portugal. For its part, SIC Notícias recalls that the Bank of Portugal indicated that two years ago the sector had a turnover of more than eight billion euros.
Nevertheless, Europe seems to be better positioned than its competitors, with only the United Kingdom benefiting from more favorable conditions. Japan will also face a 15% tariff; Indonesia and the Philippines, 19%; Vietnam, 20%; and countries like Canada, South Korea, Brazil, and Mexico, between 25% and 50%.
Finally, the world leader in commercial credit risk management, Coface, which helps 100,000 companies expand their business in around 200 international markets, argues that this 15% commitment avoids the threat of a double tariff (30%), which was initially put forward by the U.S. president, and still represents a significant increase on the 1.2% rate applied in 2024.
In addition, the EU has pledged to invest $600 billion in the U.S. and to purchase $750 billion in U.S. energy products over three years. These are commitments whose viability continues to be widely questioned by analysts and European leaders.
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Barcelona-based label Desigual is expanding its line-up of international collaborations. The label has unveiled a new collection co-created with Masha Popova, a Ukrainian designer based in London, resulting in an offering that blends Mediterranean spirit with a distinctly London edge and will be available from February 17 across all the company’s physical retail outlets and online.
The new capsule created with Masha Popova will be available from 17 February in stores and online – Desigual
The collection has been conceived as a dialogue between Desigual’s archive and the bold, sensual, and rebellious aesthetic that defines Popova’s creative universe. The pieces reinterpret the brand’s bohemian essence through a contemporary lens, combining craftsmanship, a raw attitude and a confident, modern visual language; garments include hand-finished denim, fitted silhouettes, and avant-garde pieces.
This launch comes at a strategic moment for Desigual in the UK market. In 2025, the company posted double-digit digital growth in the UK, with a 16% increase in turnover, cementing it as one of the brand’s most promising European markets. At present, the brand operates in the country exclusively via its e-commerce platform, with no brick-and-mortar network.
Furthermore, through this new alliance, Desigual reaffirms its commitment to collaborating with international brands and designers as a driver of creative renewal and global reach. In this vein, the label has recently developed capsules with the French label Egonlab and Botter, founded by designers Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter in Amsterdam.
Founded in 1984 by Thomas Meyer, Desigual is a Barcelona-based fashion company with more than 280 company-owned stores and a presence in 107 markets across ten sales channels. On the economic front, the company closed the 2024 financial year with turnover of €332 million, supported especially by its international expansion and the growth of its digital business.
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Alix Morabito, director of assortment and buying at Galeries Lafayette, is rounding out her team within a newly restructured buying division. To lead buying for the pivotal womenswear and leather goods segment, the Parisian department store has turned to a rival currently in the midst of a revamp: La Samaritaine.
Victoria Dartigues has been appointed Director of Womenswear and Leather Goods Buying at Galeries Lafayette – David Atlan/ Galeries Lafayette
Victoria Dartigues has taken up her new post after four years heading buying and merchandising at LVMH’s Right Bank department store in Paris. Since 2019, she has been with DFS, the luxury group’s duty-free subsidiary that spearheaded the Paris project, and played a key role in the relaunch of La Samaritaine.
For Victoria Dartigues, a graduate of HEC Montréal and IFM, this appointment at Galeries Lafayette is something of a homecoming: her first experience in Parisian department stores was as a buying assistant at Galeries Lafayette. She went on to join rival Printemps as a womenswear buyer in 2012.
After more than six years at the Printemps group, where she rose to head of merchandising overseeing the designer offer, she spent a stint at Kenzo before moving to DFS in 2019.
“A specialist in the multi-brand and department store sector, she has built strong relationships with brands over the years, curating assortments and leading negotiations,” Galeries Lafayette said in a press release. The group added that her appointment completes a buying leadership team comprising Alice Feillard for menswear and footwear, Pascale Leboutet-Reberat for beauty, and Violaine Moreau, who has been promoted to head up childrenswear, home and luggage.
“This new structure addresses the strategic challenge of asserting Galeries Lafayette’s commercial and creative vision through an increasingly exclusive offering,” the group said in its press release.
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Great Portland Estates (GPE) has appointed a new chief financial officer, with Jayne Cottam joining the London-centric commercial property firm’s board from 16 March.
Great Portland Estates
She succeeds Nick Sanderson who is stepping down as GPE’s chief financial & operating officer to take up the position of chief financial officer at British real estate services company Savills from 30 January.
Cottam “brings significant financial leadership and operational experience” stock market-listed GPE said on announcing her appointment to the London Stock Exchange Monday (19 January).
Most recently, she served as CFO of healthcare property company Assura from September 2017 to December 2025.
GPE chair William Eccleshare said: “Jayne brings a wealth of skills, knowledge and experience which will be invaluable to the board and management team as we progress our growth agenda.” And CEO Toby Courtauld added: “Jayne brings an excellent blend of financial, operational and leadership qualities with the right values for GPE’s culture.”
She joins at a time when analysts are noting that GPE continues to outperform the broader UK property sector, boosted not only by slowly increasing demand for London offices but also via its catchment area of prime prime West End retail sites that continue to be in high demand as the company continues to capture the ‘flight to quality trend’.
The company’s most recent investor commentary reiterated “stable-to-improving” leasing momentum across its core West End and City portfolio.