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Harrods buying chief praises Givenchy and Tom Ford collections as PFW standouts

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Fashion Month may be starting to feel like a distant memory but the serious work of deciding what consumers will be buying in a few months’ time continues. And Simon Longland, buying director – fashion at Harrods, thinks that after the Paris Fashion Week, Givenchy and Tom Ford will be high on luxury shoppers’ wishlists.

Givenchy – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

He said that PFW for AW25 was “a study in contrasts. While some houses navigated creative transitions, others delivered collections that reaffirmed their mastery. Sarah Burton and Haider Ackerman presented exceptional debut collections for Givenchy and Tom Ford, respectively”.

Meanwhile he also heaped praise on Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry, Pieter Mulier at Alaïa, and the Olsen sisters of The Row who “presented with absolute confidence, each demonstrating a clear vision and beautiful collections”.

Schiaparelli – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

In fact, those three labels, as well as Givenchy, stood out for Longland for “their precision, restraint, and craftsmanship. The most impactful shows were smaller in format, allowing for a closer appreciation of the pieces and the skill behind them”.

And what of the wider trends? He said that “texture defined the season. Shaggy faux fur and shearling were omnipresent, making statement outerwear the key investment, best layered over rich brown leather. Leather and suede extended into skirts, trousers, and shirting, reinforcing their role as foundational materials. Tailoring focused on sculptural silhouettes with quiet authority.

Tom Ford – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

“Colour took a strong direction. Bitter chocolate brown emerged as the new black, complemented by tan and chestnut. Red, from scarlet to Bordeaux, was the boldest statement. 

“Heritage fabrics grounded collections in tradition while ensuring modern relevance”.

Overall, thinks that AW25 in Paris “reaffirmed that true luxury is rooted in clarity, craftsmanship, and conviction. While some houses redefine their identity, others are at the height of their influence, setting the standard for the season ahead”.

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Coach extends fragrance licensing deal with Interparfums

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Interparfums SA and Coach announced they are renewing their exclusive worldwide licensing agreement for creation, manufacturing and distribution of the U.S. luxury brand’s fragrances until 2031.

Coach

The duo said that two newly created perfumes will be launched in 2025, as a result of the continued partnership.

“In less than ten years, we have succeeded in building a legitimate and coherent fragrance offering based on a high-quality brand name recognised for both its image and its products,” said Philippe Benacin, chairman and CEO of Interparfums SA. 

“We are extremely ambitious and confident in the brand’s continuing growth in the short, medium and long-term, especially driven by its gender complementarity, with equal popularity for men’s and women’s fragrances.”

Coach, owned by New York-based company Tapestry, first partnered with Interparfums back in 2015 for its fragrance line, expanding beyond its leathergoods.

Sales of Coach fragrances have surged from just ​€10 million in 2015, to some ​€190 million in 2024.

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Olive Tree People opens first US flagship store in Los Angeles

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Waterless beauty company Olive Tree People is making its U.S. retail debut with the opening of its first flagship store in Los Angeles. 

Olive Tree People opens first US flagship store in Los Angeles. – Olive Tree People

Located at 1335 Abbot Kinney in Venice, the store offers an immersive experience that brings the brand’s philosophy and products to life. It houses the brand’s extensive portfolio, including Oliveda, LA Dope, Olive Rose, Olive Mush, Is That Matty, and Olive:Reconnected. 

Central to the store’s concept is an interactive installation that allows visitors to step inside a 3,000-year-old mountain olive tree.

“We are not only waterless beauty, but also the first company to work with the frequencies of our wild mountain olive trees in Spain and make them accessible to everyone worldwide,“ said Olive Tree People founder, Thomas Lommel.

“For the first time in history, our flagship store will offer visitors a unique opportunity to step inside a 3,000-year-old mountain olive tree and experience what it feels like to be one with nature again, while simultaneously reconnecting with its unique nature and thus connecting with the infinite life force of Mother Nature.”

The company’s goal is also to inform women about the benefits of waterless beauty, emphasizing sustainability and skin health.

The holistic cycle explains that we replace the 70% water found in conventional products with the power of our mountain olive tree cell elixir and the polyphenol hydroxytyrosol it contains. We replace the mostly refined oils with our bioactive Arbequina oil,” Lommel added.

Olive Tree People has rapidly grown in the beauty sector, achieving $104 million in sales in its second year. The company is growing 200% faster than leading celebrity-backed brands such as Rhode by Hailey Bieber and JLo Beauty by Jennifer Lopez, and six times faster than clean beauty pioneer Beautycounter.

The rise of waterless beauty is projected to reach $17.21 trillion by 2028, according to Grand View Research.

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Peter Som launches buzzy new cookbook

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So is the nature of fashion that brands and designers come and go from the market. Just because a brand or a designer isn’t a regular fixture on the fashion week circuit is no indication that their creative days are behind them. It’s generally farther from the truth.

After his superstar designer turn in the 90’s, Isaac Mizrahi not only went to sell his label to Xcel Brands in 2011 after pivoting to a collection sold on QVC, but he launched a career in entertainment, appearing in plays and performing at spots such as Bemelmans Bar in New York City.

Peter Som – Yumi Matsuo

Another 1990’s-era designer, Todd Oldham, pivoted to hotel design, book publishing, and philanthropy. He even got into the sustainability movement by launching his Todd Oldham Maker Shop offerings using remnants from his brand archives. Tom Ford and Anthony Vaccarello have turned to film to express their creativity further. Platforms like Instagram allowed Jason Wu and Peter Som to explore their cooking creations. In the latter’s case, it has propelled Som into another spear of lifestyle creative, which has led to brand partnerships in the food and entertaining space and the release of his first cookbook.

FashionNetwork.com spoke with Som about the new tome that was released this week.

Anyone following Som on Instagram has gotten a teaser of what the designer has been up to in the kitchen. For Som, the pivot in focus had a deeper meaning than solving what’s for dinner.

Scallion pancakes by Peter Som
Scallion pancakes by Peter Som – Linda Xiao

“Over a few years, I realized I wanted to honor my grandmother and my mom’s stories through food. Cooking has always been a huge part of my life—during my runway collection years; it’s what kept my feet on the ground in a topsy-turvy industry—and over the years, it has become so important to who I am and what I love to do. I mean, food, for me, is joy,” Som said, adding, “I was very close to my grandmother growing up—she lived in San Francisco, and I grew up just across the Golden Gate Bridge in Mill Valley—so I saw her all the time—and much of my memories of her were helping her in the kitchen—her love of food and feeding people was definitely imprinted on me from a very young age.”

Expressing this to his audience was natural for Som, who engaged in today’s communication vehicle du jour, social media. “It’s the world we live in, isn’t it? Sharing what I’ve made in the kitchen was pretty natural—I’m a visual person, so now and then, I’d post something I’d made because I liked how it looked—the colors, the form; that’s how it started,” he recalled.

Charred Cabbage Caesar by Peter Som
Charred Cabbage Caesar by Peter Som – Linda Xiao

Here, viewers can find his recipes, such as Five Spice Roasted Chicken (another Five Spice recipe reimagines pumpkin pie); Seriously Fast Creamy Miso Pasta; reimagined Deviled Egg recipes; and Carrots with Gochujang Honey Butter, which the designer made post his first Met Gala.

Som encourages his audience to DM him for tips and a recipe. Many of these recipes first debuted among Som’s friends, primarily from creative fashion backgrounds.

He is also clear that it has allowed him to exercise his creative muscle.

“It’s absolutely a form of creativity. I’ve found—interestingly– that the approach to creating a recipe is quite similar to designing a garment. The fundamentals and techniques are obviously different—but in both cases, you’re dreaming up something within a certain framework. They say you eat with your eyes—like seeing a great sweater or dress in a shop window—a balance of color and proportion—something familiar mixed with something unexpected. And just like that sweater has to fit amazing and feel great—so too does a dish have to taste delicious and be packed with flavor,” he surmises, adding that applying his design proclivities to another medium was natural. “I’d like to think that creativity has no limits. Having that creative spark is the key to taking inspiration into reality—whether designing a collection or testing a recipe.”

Peter Som's new cookbook, 'Family Style'
Peter Som’s new cookbook, “Family Style” – HarperCollins Publishing

However, Som admits that one lasts longer than the other, wildly if the recipe succeeds: “Food is ephemeral- it’s created, eaten, and then gone! So, you’re capturing a moment in time—and you have to start from zero each time you want to have that dish. There’s something very elemental about it. There’s a definite beginning, middle, and end. Creating clothes involves more hands—many people touch each garment along the way. The creative part of things feels somewhat similar at its core, but its execution is very different. I love both!”

Som is still actively designing garments. He has had a successful collaboration producing a collection for Rent the Runway and has further yet-to-be-disclosed design projects on the horizon. The recipes and cookbooks have also led to partnerships with Uber Eats, Califia Farms, Mounts Veeder Winery, All-Clad cookware, and several neighborhood businesses.

Som will also engage in a bevy of book promotion-related events. “The avenues to explore how to do business in fashion are much broader now—and it’s very exciting,” he concluded.
 

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