Fashion Month may be starting to feel like a distant memory but the serious work of deciding what consumers will be buying in a few months’ time continues. And Simon Longland, buying director – fashion at Harrods, thinks that after the Paris Fashion Week, Givenchy and Tom Ford will be high on luxury shoppers’ wishlists.
He said that PFW for AW25 was “a study in contrasts. While some houses navigated creative transitions, others delivered collections that reaffirmed their mastery. Sarah Burton and Haider Ackerman presented exceptional debut collections for Givenchy and Tom Ford, respectively”.
Meanwhile he also heaped praise on Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry, Pieter Mulier at Alaïa, and the Olsen sisters of The Row who “presented with absolute confidence, each demonstrating a clear vision and beautiful collections”.
In fact, those three labels, as well as Givenchy, stood out for Longland for “their precision, restraint, and craftsmanship. The most impactful shows were smaller in format, allowing for a closer appreciation of the pieces and the skill behind them”.
And what of the wider trends? He said that “texture defined the season. Shaggy faux fur and shearling were omnipresent, making statement outerwear the key investment, best layered over rich brown leather. Leather and suede extended into skirts, trousers, and shirting, reinforcing their role as foundational materials. Tailoring focused on sculptural silhouettes with quiet authority.
“Colour took a strong direction. Bitter chocolate brown emerged as the new black, complemented by tan and chestnut. Red, from scarlet to Bordeaux, was the boldest statement.
“Heritage fabrics grounded collections in tradition while ensuring modern relevance”.
Overall, thinks that AW25 in Paris “reaffirmed that true luxury is rooted in clarity, craftsmanship, and conviction. While some houses redefine their identity, others are at the height of their influence, setting the standard for the season ahead”.