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Kering shares down 10% after Demna named Gucci designer

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March 14, 2025

Kering shares tanked on Friday morning after the group led by François-Henri Pinault chose to bet on subversive in-house talent Demna to reinvigorate its Gucci label rather than hiring a big-ticket name from fashion’s overheating job market. Shares fell by around 10% in early Paris session trade, underperforming French luxury peers, which were trading flat following the news.

Kering shares fall 10% after Gucci names Demna creative director. – Reuters

Analysts at Jefferies said the appointment of the Georgian former Balenciaga designer came as a surprise, while J.P. Morgan analysts called the move a “controversial choice,” citing early feedback on social media and fashion blogs and a “question mark” now hanging over the brand’s creative future.

The appointment of Gucci’s next design chief was the fashion world’s most-awaited news in recent weeks after Gucci fired Italian designer Sabato De Sarno after less than two years in the role.

The house’s prolonged sales decline, including a revenue drop of 24% in the fourth quarter of 2024 alone, has heavily weighed on Kering in the past months. Group shares are down around 40% year-on-year, while a European sector benchmark index is down close to 6% over the same period.

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Prada’s CEO flies to New York as speculation swirls over Versace bid

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March 14, 2025

Luxury fashion powerhouse Prada is making bold moves. CEO Andrea Guerra has reportedly flown to New York, a source told Reuters, as the group engages in talks to acquire Versace from Capri Holdings—a deal that could bring together two of Italy’s most iconic fashion names.

A source revealed that on his visit to the U.S. financial hub, Prada CEO Andrea Guerra is joined by Lorenzo Bertelli, the son of the group’s key shareholders, Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli, who also serves as chief marketing officer.

Meanwhile, Capri Holdings, based in New York, announced on Thursday that Donatella Versace is stepping down as the brand’s main designer after nearly three decades.

Starting April 1, Dario Vitale, a designer from Miu Miu, a smaller brand within the Prada Group, will step into Donatella Versace’s role as chief creative officer of the Medusa-head brand. According to Morningstar analysts, this strategic move could pave the way for a potential Prada-Versace acquisition.

Prada declined to comment, and Reuters could not confirm whether Guerra’s trip was directly linked to discussions with Capri Holdings regarding a possible Versace deal.

Earlier this month, reports surfaced that Prada was nearing a €1.5 billion ($1.64 billion) agreement to acquire Versace. On February 20, a source told Reuters that Prada had been granted four weeks to review the financials of its smaller rival.

Beyond Versace, Prada is also rumored to be eyeing Jimmy Choo, another Capri Holdings brand, further signaling its ambitious expansion plans.

($1 = 0.9168 euros)

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Umbo celebrates Manchester roots via ‘Northern Quarter’ collection, campaign

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British sportswear brand Umbro heads back to its Northern roots for the release of its collection and campaign for Spring/Summer 2025.

The new ‘Northern Quarter’ collection and supporting promo gains inspiration from “the authenticity and creativity of the brand’s home city Manchester, with the line “bringing Umbro’s sports heritage up to date with a casual street-savvy swagger”.

Umbro says it continues to shape the global landscape of sportswear, “defining style both on and off the pitch”. 

Recent partnerships, including with Palace, Supreme, and Aries, “have helped cement Umbro’s pioneering reputation within the sports fashion space”, it said. 

So this season, the brand refocuses on the place where it all started, “acknowledging its roots and archive, while incorporating a renewed and forward-thinking design code inspired by Manchester’s relentlessly vibrant and creative Northern Quarter”.

The football heritage-inspired collection “reinterprets archive classics through a contemporary lens”.

Key hero pieces include the Zip-Off Sleeve Wind Jacket (£90), which takes inspiration from the
track jacket Umbro produced for the England team in 1998; the Washed Drill Top (£67) and Washed Diamond Drill Sweat (£80), which directly reference the drill tops of the 1990s “embraced by players and fans alike”. They come reimagined in washed cotton with additional details including integrated pockets,

The campaign supporting the collection launch was shot by Jay Johnson and spotlights Northern Quarter’s new generation including Jefe, a socially conscious barber and former basketball player; street artist Tomas Gittins; and ‘Gone Fishing’ vintage store owner Seb Dixon.

“Each embodies the creative, entrepreneurial, and inclusive spirit of Manchester’s Northern Quarter”, notes Umbro.

The just-launched collection is available at umbro.co.uk as well as selected stockists including END, Size, Urban Outfitters and ASOS.

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Hera and Pepsi to launch ‘Here for More’ collaboration with motivational four-piece collection

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Fashion brand Hera has gone big with its latest collaborative partner… global soft drinks brand Pepsi. The partnership, entitled ‘Here for More,’ is a “bold celebration of both brands’ shared ambition to encourage people to be present, put enjoyment first, and strive to get more out of life”, we’re told.

As part of the collaboration comes a four-piece unisex limited-edition collection featuring hoodie and T-shirt designs, each embodying the essence of ‘Here for More.’

Each piece carries the motivational message: ‘Here for More. It all starts with your mindset. The pursuit of more’.

Designed in tonal colourways (black, grey marl, and off-white with touches of electric blue) they reflect Pepsi’s branding and Hera’s signature oversized look.

The accompanying “dynamic interactive” campaign includes exclusive interactive PR boxes, a series of pop-up events, and a visual fashion campaign that reflects Pepsi’s legacy and Hera’s bold identity.

The interactive PR boxes contain a locked ‘safe’ box containing the limited-edition hoodie, “encouraging the receiver to share their ‘Here for More’ mantra – a statement or quote that embodies a ‘More’ mindset – via social media to unlock the exclusive gift”.

The collection is being “secretly” dropped in four cities (London, Birmingham, Manchester and Glasgow) between 20-23 March and consumers will be able to try and win the exclusive pieces from special co-endorsed vending machines.

The collaboration is described as “an organic extension of Hera’s mission: to empower individuals through fashion that speaks to ambition, confidence, and an elevated lifestyle. The ‘Here for More’ collection is also inspired by Pepsi’s ‘Thirsty for More’ purpose – to champion those who challenge convention in the pursuit of enjoyment – while embracing Hera’s distinctive style”.

Available online at heraclothing.com from 17 March, the unisex collection is priced £88 for the hoodie and £58 for the T-shirt.

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