Kering shares tanked on Friday morning after the group led by François-Henri Pinault chose to bet on subversive in-house talent Demna to reinvigorate its Gucci label rather than hiring a big-ticket name from fashion’s overheating job market. Shares fell by around 10% in early Paris session trade, underperforming French luxury peers, which were trading flat following the news.
Kering shares fall 10% after Gucci names Demna creative director. – Reuters
Analysts at Jefferies said the appointment of the Georgian former Balenciaga designer came as a surprise, while J.P. Morgan analysts called the move a “controversial choice,” citing early feedback on social media and fashion blogs and a “question mark” now hanging over the brand’s creative future.
The appointment of Gucci’s next design chief was the fashion world’s most-awaited news in recent weeks after Gucci fired Italian designer Sabato De Sarno after less than two years in the role.
The house’s prolonged sales decline, including a revenue drop of 24% in the fourth quarter of 2024 alone, has heavily weighed on Kering in the past months. Group shares are down around 40% year-on-year, while a European sector benchmark index is down close to 6% over the same period.
