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Louis Vuitton, Gabriela Hearst, and Zimmermann

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A contrast in styles across three collections at Paris Fashion Week 0n Monday – the corporate, the committed, and the cool, from Louis Vuitton, Gabriela Hearst, and Zimmermann.
  

Trans-Euro Vuitton

Designer Nicolas Ghesquière took Vuitton on its latest journey on a runway Monday night, departing from a virtual station beside a real one, the Gare du Nord.

Louis Vuitton – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Presenting his latest blend of futurism, active sport, techy materials and tongue-in-cheek humor to an audience of 400.
 
Winning prolonged applause for what will surely be judged as one of his best collections for Vuitton. At the finale, greeting First Lady Brigitte Macron in a long embrace as he toured the multi-runway set.

A long and energetic collection staged before a gang of Nicolas’ actress pals – Saoirse Ronan, Alicia Vikander, Lea Seydoux, Jennifer Connelly and Emma Stone.
 
Taking risks with every look, right from the beginning: leather shorts cut like lotus flower-shaped Kiki Bachi basins, paired with transparent Latex dusters. Latex jumpsuits worn over red orchid velour shirts; graphic anoraks with road signage Vuitton logos; or tartan blankets brilliant draped into sexy after-hour saris. For evening, Samurai armor-shaped, knitted-over-vast-folds-of-mille-feuille-chiffon dresses.

Louis Vuitton – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

 
The models dashing about the large triangular atrium, as if desperate not to miss a train, or a lover departing for the weekend. Guests sitting on metallic platform seats.
 
Plus, the bags were something else – violin or mandolin cases in Damier print; or double satchel bags in Vuitton monogram tied around the waist like Uilleann pipes. As were Nicolas’ latest footwear, starring high heels or Chelsea boots wrapped in two-inch thick soles; or ballerinas’ thick socks built into cool new boots.
 
“Recreating the bustling ambience of a Paris train station – where fleeting moments are shared amongst strangers, weaving a tapestry of stories,” was Ghesquière’s explanation.
 
A fleeting moment that ended up becoming a punchy fashion statement.
 

Gabriela Hearst: Neatly neolithic 

An immigrant to America herself, Gabriela Hearst, to her credit, has not forgotten where she came from, and that others like her will want to follow her path.

Gabriela Hearst – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Exiting her latest show in Palais de Tokyo, guests were given a flyer from the ACLU explaining how one should interact with heavies from Immigration and Customs Enforcement at work, or at your door. 
 
Entitled “Know Your Rights”, the flyer offering precise legal advice on how to deal with ICE. Revealing this scourge of all immigrants is spelled L’ice in France, which sort of speaks volumes.
 
Back inside, the audience was able to enjoy a clever, composed and cool collection from Hearst, inspired by the concept of Goddess symbolism. Where ancient and neolithic signage – spirals, zigzags, and snake incisions were the connecting idea of the collection. In the belief that abstract motifs indicate women’s roles as protector and nourisher of humankind.

Gabriela Hearst – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

 
The result was some great looks: opening with a series of strong coats and jackets in leather, often trimmed in treated shearling, whether shaggy or shaved. Few designers drape or tailor leather as effectively as Gabriela, though then again as the daughter of Uruguayan rancher, it’s in her personal DNA. Her sharp blazers and shirts; ever so flared skirts and brilliant gather cocktails were all excellent.
 
In a busy season for Hearst, she also opened a deluxe seven-month-long pop-up in the Bristol Hotel, which will remain open until November 1.
 
Capping off a fine moment, to heavy applause, as she received her ovation in an ACLU cap. Making her humanism apparent at her bow.
 

Zimmermann: Picnic at the Petit Palais

One of fashion’s great recent success stories is the house of Zimmermann, which presented an enticing vision of haute-bohemian chic on a chilly Monday in Paris.

Zimmermann – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Perhaps, the initial thrill of discovering Zimmermann a decade ago in New York has worn off, but Nicky Zimmermann continues to dream up fresh takes on her Optimistic Oz signature style.
 
For next fall, she wants to attire her fans in diaphanous ruffled chiffon or organza dresses.  Semi-sheer, showing lots of underwear and worn with big, hefty boots, their ankles finished with woven leather straps.
 
Entitled, “Hypnotic”this Fall 25 collection drew inspiration from one of Australia’s greatest movies, the eerie fictional Victorian crime story “Picnic at Hanging Rock” about the disappearance of three schoolgirls and a teacher. 
 
“Picnic at Hanging Rock celebrates its 50th anniversary this year… Our collection, like the film, is guided by a mysterious spirit and the haunting, ethereal and romantic qualities of a dream within a dream,” explained designer Nicky Zimmermann.

Zimmermann – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Noting that the use of Victoria guipure and lace; dramatic silhouettes; dusty Outback colors of Australian nature; maps of Mt Macedon; and the pinafores of the schoolgirl’s uniforms.  
 
All told, a highly evocative collection staged with wit and vigor inside the Petit Palais with thespian fans Katie Holmes and Rose Byrne sitting front row.
 
And, with scores of buyers looking very happy in the front row, the latest example of chill and commercial Zimmermann. You see, unlike the boarding school in Picnic at Hanging Rock, which went bankrupt due to the scandal, Zimmermann continues to boom.
 

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London College of Fashion announces Manolo Blahnik scholarship

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Footwear design takes a step up in the UK with the launch of the Manolo Blahnik Scholarship at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London (UAL).

Reuters

Described as a “transformative award supporting emerging talent in design and craftsmanship”, the scholarship has been established through a “significant multi-year commitment” from the Manolo Blahnik Foundation.

Designed to support students studying at LCF’s School of Design and Technology, it will “ensure financial barriers do not stand in the way of creative excellence”.

With its inaugural recipient awarded on 11 March to a current first-year student on the BA undergraduate (Hons) Cordwainers Footwear course, “the scholarship embodies the spirit of innovation and craftsmanship that defines both the Cordwainers legacy and Manolo Blahnik’s renowned approach to design”.

Going forward, the scholarship will be available to applicants prior to accepting their place to study at LCF. With plans to expand the scholarship across other courses within LCF’s School of Design and Technology, “this initiative serves as a benchmark for future partnerships that aim to support and elevate emerging creative talent”.

The scholarship is open to students based in the UK and also from international backgrounds. They will receive full tuition support along with an annual contribution towards living expenses and course costs for the duration of their three years of study, “enabling them to fully immerse themselves in their creative education”.

Claudine Rousseau, dean of the School of Design and Technology at London College of Fashion, UAL, said: “This scholarship is an extraordinary opportunity for talented students who may otherwise face financial barriers in pursuing their creative ambitions. It is also a significant step towards widening participation and ensuring that diverse voices and perspectives continue to shape the future of heritage crafts.”

Designer Manolo Blahnik, founder and trustee of the foundation, added: “The reason I wanted to start [the Foundation] is to help people…The UAL scholarship focuses on supporting talented creatives to ensure the future of innovative, high-quality craftsmanship and to ensure it remains at the heart of the fashion industry.”

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Fab femininities in Palais d’Iéna

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Almost last, but very probably best, Miuccia Prada presented her latest collection for Miu Miu—a meeting of multiple decades, manifold pronouns, and some really marvelous fashion on Tuesday, the final day of Paris Fashion Week.

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

 
During a year that has begun with blatant attacks by the Trump administration on diversity of any form, it was particularly admirable to witness Miuccia’s cast, so obviously diverse in their sexual preferences. Added to that was an overriding sense of liberation in this show, with its super self-confident women, overt sensuality, and unexpected clothes.
 
The designer’s bold opening idea was using thick, military-style felted wool in generals’ coats or city skirt suits, where the only thing evident underneath was a bra. Cut to sit off the torso, with bold raised seams and darts at the back, making it all seem super now—easily identifiable chic for those in the know.

In an impish play, the tailoring was paired with early-teen cotton knee socks or black socks covered in crystals and strass. Miuccia, who personally loves fine jewelry, finished every model in spiky golden earrings and large floral brooches.

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny
Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

Weaving disparate eras, Miu Miu suddenly grew cinematic—blending femme fatales from Hitchcock with knowing seductresses from David Lynch. Checked and printed skirts paired with side-buckled boots and fitted sweaters—each look completed with elaborately lacquered hair and sultry secretary glasses. A nod to Miss Moneypenny, but through the lens of Miu Miu in Paris, in a collection Miuccia aptly titled “Femininities.”

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

 
Signora Prada never does anything in half measures, and in a season where fur has reconquered the runways, she sent out all manner of fur stoles—fox, wolf, and mink—worn as scarves and cut with hand-warmer pockets.

Crossing borders with footwear, most of her gals wore mannish burnished leather loafers, along with the coolest aged leather dude blazers with aplomb.
 
Miuccia always loves mixing up her Miu Miu cast. This season, she selected actress Sarah Paulson, of “The People v. O.J. Simpson” fame; fellow thespians Raffey Cassidy, Laura Harrier, Oscar Lesage, and Sunday Rose Kidman Urban; French ever-hip hipster Lou Doillon; artist Isabelle Albuquerque; Amelia Gray, daughter of Perseus; and rapper Nettspend. Talk about eclectic.
 
Before heading into the evening, first came some razor-sharp leather looks. The show ended with girls on the prowl—in slip dresses or off-the-shoulder silk dresses with bra straps always on display. Looking sensational inside the 1930s Palais d’Iéna, done up with yellow silk jacquard wallpaper.

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

Backed up by a great cinema organ-driven soundtrack, climaxing with “Day Off” by Teho & Romain Garcia. Effectively bringing to an end the truly influential shows in contemporary fashion.

A bona fide home-run, bases-loaded hit show. If Miuccia Prada were a footballer, she would have just won the Ballon d’Or again for Miu Miu. At the very least, she got the most enthusiastic applause of four weeks of runway shows. That’s real respect.

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Golden Goose arrives at Selfridges Corner Shop with an action-packed takeover

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Golden Goose is packing in a lot of excitement and features to its new London pop-up store with the Italian footwear brand having just unveiled its exclusive takeover of The Corner Shop at Selfridges.

Ahead of opening of its first London standalone store on Mount Street later this year, a taster of things to come can be seen until 12 April with the “one-of-a-kind” pop-up.

With a focus on “co-creation and shared moments”, the brand has transformed the temporary space into an “intimate, Italy-infused… archive of dreams”.

Drawing inspiration from the brand’s Venetian headquarters and artisanal heritage, the design blends “vintage aesthetics with contemporary craftsmanship”, featuring salvaged wood walls and furnishings alongside archival souvenirs.

At the heart of the pop-up, a vintage table hosts Co-Creation, a one-to-one personalisation experience with ‘Golden Goose Dream Makers’. Here, clients can personalise their favourite pieces with patches, charms, pins, brooches, crystals, studs and other embellishments.

Additional artisanal treatments, such as distressing, embroidery, and hand-painted designs “ensure each item is one of a kind, becoming a unique expression of individuality”.

But of course, product is key and the Corner Shop installation features a rotating focus each week, offering an “ever-evolving selection” of ready-to-wear, boots, bags & accessories and sneakers, including limited-edition and archive pieces. Here, the “standout highlight” is the global preview of the True-Star sneaker – the brand’s most anticipated release – available exclusively in the space.

Next to the Co-Creation space, Golden Goose has also unveiled its ‘Con Amore’ corner, where “every moment becomes a gesture of love”. Inspired by Italy’s floral shops, the area offers personalised gift wrapping, curated ribbons, and decorative bows – “elevating gifting into an art form”. It also provides visitors with coffee, sweet treats, and fresh flowers, “inviting them to pause and connect”.

Every week, Golden Goose will also hosts a series of immersive Co-Creation workshops. Customers can personalise their Marathon Sneakers with exclusive design options, such as changing the label tab; add a retro twist with keychains, laces, and charms on the Forty2 Sneakers; enhance their sneakers and nails with crystal embellishments; and express their creativity by personalising archive products with tattoo-inspired artwork.

Golden Goose CEO Silvio Campara talked of bringing its “craftsmanship and heritage to such an iconic space”, noting: “This pop-up offers a unique opportunity to connect with the Selfridges community and customers, showcasing our distinct DNA and Co-Creation services. It’s more than just a retail space, it’s an immersive journey where artisanal tradition and community unite, placing the client at the heart of every experience.” 

He also said the pop-up “marks a key milestone in Golden Goose’s expansion in the UK… This is the first step towards a larger presence in the UK, culminating in the highly anticipated opening of our flagship store on Mount Street later this year – a space that will elevate the in-store and Co-Creation experience to new heights.”

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