Louis Vuitton, Gabriela Hearst, and Zimmermann

A contrast in styles across three collections at Paris Fashion Week 0n Monday – the corporate, the committed, and the cool, from Louis Vuitton, Gabriela Hearst, and Zimmermann.
  

Trans-Euro Vuitton

Designer Nicolas Ghesquière took Vuitton on its latest journey on a runway Monday night, departing from a virtual station beside a real one, the Gare du Nord.

Presenting his latest blend of futurism, active sport, techy materials and tongue-in-cheek humor to an audience of 400.
 
Winning prolonged applause for what will surely be judged as one of his best collections for Vuitton. At the finale, greeting First Lady Brigitte Macron in a long embrace as he toured the multi-runway set.

A long and energetic collection staged before a gang of Nicolas’ actress pals – Saoirse Ronan, Alicia Vikander, Lea Seydoux, Jennifer Connelly and Emma Stone.
 
Taking risks with every look, right from the beginning: leather shorts cut like lotus flower-shaped Kiki Bachi basins, paired with transparent Latex dusters. Latex jumpsuits worn over red orchid velour shirts; graphic anoraks with road signage Vuitton logos; or tartan blankets brilliant draped into sexy after-hour saris. For evening, Samurai armor-shaped, knitted-over-vast-folds-of-mille-feuille-chiffon dresses.

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The models dashing about the large triangular atrium, as if desperate not to miss a train, or a lover departing for the weekend. Guests sitting on metallic platform seats.
 
Plus, the bags were something else – violin or mandolin cases in Damier print; or double satchel bags in Vuitton monogram tied around the waist like Uilleann pipes. As were Nicolas’ latest footwear, starring high heels or Chelsea boots wrapped in two-inch thick soles; or ballerinas’ thick socks built into cool new boots.
 
“Recreating the bustling ambience of a Paris train station – where fleeting moments are shared amongst strangers, weaving a tapestry of stories,” was Ghesquière’s explanation.
 
A fleeting moment that ended up becoming a punchy fashion statement.
 

Gabriela Hearst: Neatly neolithic 

An immigrant to America herself, Gabriela Hearst, to her credit, has not forgotten where she came from, and that others like her will want to follow her path.

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Exiting her latest show in Palais de Tokyo, guests were given a flyer from the ACLU explaining how one should interact with heavies from Immigration and Customs Enforcement at work, or at your door. 
 
Entitled “Know Your Rights”, the flyer offering precise legal advice on how to deal with ICE. Revealing this scourge of all immigrants is spelled L’ice in France, which sort of speaks volumes.
 
Back inside, the audience was able to enjoy a clever, composed and cool collection from Hearst, inspired by the concept of Goddess symbolism. Where ancient and neolithic signage – spirals, zigzags, and snake incisions were the connecting idea of the collection. In the belief that abstract motifs indicate women’s roles as protector and nourisher of humankind.

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The result was some great looks: opening with a series of strong coats and jackets in leather, often trimmed in treated shearling, whether shaggy or shaved. Few designers drape or tailor leather as effectively as Gabriela, though then again as the daughter of Uruguayan rancher, it’s in her personal DNA. Her sharp blazers and shirts; ever so flared skirts and brilliant gather cocktails were all excellent.
 
In a busy season for Hearst, she also opened a deluxe seven-month-long pop-up in the Bristol Hotel, which will remain open until November 1.
 
Capping off a fine moment, to heavy applause, as she received her ovation in an ACLU cap. Making her humanism apparent at her bow.
 

Zimmermann: Picnic at the Petit Palais

One of fashion’s great recent success stories is the house of Zimmermann, which presented an enticing vision of haute-bohemian chic on a chilly Monday in Paris.

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Perhaps, the initial thrill of discovering Zimmermann a decade ago in New York has worn off, but Nicky Zimmermann continues to dream up fresh takes on her Optimistic Oz signature style.
 
For next fall, she wants to attire her fans in diaphanous ruffled chiffon or organza dresses.  Semi-sheer, showing lots of underwear and worn with big, hefty boots, their ankles finished with woven leather straps.
 
Entitled, “Hypnotic”, this Fall 25 collection drew inspiration from one of Australia’s greatest movies, the eerie fictional Victorian crime story “Picnic at Hanging Rock” about the disappearance of three schoolgirls and a teacher. 
 
“Picnic at Hanging Rock celebrates its 50th anniversary this year… Our collection, like the film, is guided by a mysterious spirit and the haunting, ethereal and romantic qualities of a dream within a dream,” explained designer Nicky Zimmermann.

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Noting that the use of Victoria guipure and lace; dramatic silhouettes; dusty Outback colors of Australian nature; maps of Mt Macedon; and the pinafores of the schoolgirl’s uniforms.  
 
All told, a highly evocative collection staged with wit and vigor inside the Petit Palais with thespian fans Katie Holmes and Rose Byrne sitting front row.
 
And, with scores of buyers looking very happy in the front row, the latest example of chill and commercial Zimmermann. You see, unlike the boarding school in Picnic at Hanging Rock, which went bankrupt due to the scandal, Zimmermann continues to boom.