Rodolfo Zengarini, CEO of Italian footwear producer Zengarini, currently exhibiting at the Micam trade show with all its licensed brands (Bikkembergs, Cavalli, John Richmond, Ungaro Paris and Guy Laroche), has spoken to FashionNetwork.com about its forthcoming projects.
Roberto Cavalli
“Following a boom year in 2022, and a more settled one in 2023, last year we held our positions, a positive outcome in itself. In the last few years, we have prioritised investing in brands with which we have well-established licensing contracts, but in 2025 a deal with a new international name could be in the offing,” said Zengarini. “In the meantime, we’ll open again the showroom in Dubai, which we closed during the pandemic, and we’re negotiating new deals in Northern Europe,” he added.
But Zengarini has primarily set its sights on the USA, where it has been active for many years with a showroom in New York: “We want to further strengthen our position in the US, currently our main market. In addition, we will return to Russia, a market that in the past has been very important for us, one that I think will soon start up again; we’ll take part in the Obuv’- Mir Kozhi footwear show in Moscow in March.”
Guy Laroche
Zengarini generates 50% of its revenue outside Italy, and its other leading markets are Eastern Europe, Greece, Spain, and Portugal.
At Micam, Zengarini presented the John Richmond and Richmond X collections. The former is characterised by three essential elements: a restyling of its classic models, the use of innovative materials, and a contemporary reinterpretation of some signature accessories. The result is a collection with a strong retro vibe, featuring models that look like unique items unearthed at a vintage market, thanks to Zengarini’s painstaking restoration of period pieces that have been transformed with a distressed effect.
John Richmond
The key silhouettes capture John Richmond’s DNA: ankle boots in woven fibres, bold military-style boots, and modern reinterpretations of classic models, like a fresh take on the famous Oxford brogues. Every detail is painstakingly curated, from the brushed finish to the swallow-tail uppers and the super-comfy insoles in ultra-soft, shock-absorbing chlorophyll. The collection is characterised by broad lines with a lightweight touch, blending natural materials such as leather and grass for striking visual effects.
Richmond X
Richmond X is a quintessentially modern collection, featuring streamlined designs, high-tech materials and stylish everyday looks, for example the best-selling Sukajan model. Multi-layer soles in three or four different materials make the shoes light and comfortable, as do the shock-proof memory foam insoles, featured also on the more formal models. Some of the sneakers sport a distressed, well-worn look, with vinyl details and rubber tread. The colour palette focuses on natural hues such as beige and cream. The more luxurious models feature sheepskin lining and natural leather uppers, while loafers and military boots are equipped with hand-crafted soles and rubber tread, and enhanced by details like detachable tassels.
It may be widely expected but it’s still a shock when highly respected designers are ousted from their creation director posts and so it was on Wednesday as, post-AW25 runway show, we learned that Jil Sander and its creative chiefs Lucie and Luke Meier “have mutually decided that this collection would be the last of their collaboration”.
Their impending exit has been talked about for months and finally came just after they showed a collection that received — like many of their previous collections — widespread praise.
And unlike some creative director exits, the parties concerned were full of praise for each other. Renzo Rosso, chairman of OTB Group, owner of the Jil Sander brand, said he “wishes to thank Lucie and Luke for their vision, passion for excellence, and dedication to the brand”.
At the same time, in a press release, OTB said “the designers seize this occasion to express their heartfelt gratitude to OTB and the Jil Sander teams who have consistently dedicated their energy, passion, and talent to this project, and are proud of the work they have accomplished alongside such wonderful people. A special thanks as well to Mr Rosso”.
The company didn’t share any information about what happens next, although there have been rumours for some time that Daniel Lee might be exiting a changing Burberry to helm the label. As for the Meiers, they’re likely to be in demand after their creatively successful tenure at Jil Sander.
Clergerie is struggling to get out of this new rut. After first filing for receivership in 2023, and subsequently being acquired by a US group, the footwear brand based in Romans-sur-Isère, France, has again been placed in receivership. The proceedings formally opened late last year at the trade court in Romans-sur-Isère, where Clergerie operates a production site, and FashionNetwork.com has learnt that the court-appointed receivers are looking for a buyer.
Clergerie’s leather boots are priced between €525 and €745 – Clergerie
Nearly two years ago, Clergerie was bought by US group Titan Footwear following commercial court proceedings in Paris, having filed for receivership in March 2023. However, Joe Ouaknine, businessman and owner of Titan Footwear, hasn’t been able to revive Clergerie. Was it for lack of investment, or because the market is too disrupted? Last November, the brand’s French factory, which used to produce nearly 500 pairs of shoes a week, was shut down, and its workers were put on short-term unemployment, as local paper Ici Drome Ardèche reported. According to some workers, production later resumed but only in “fits and starts,” and with “constant raw materials supply issues.”
52 jobs at two companies at risk
The public notice recently published by the court-appointed receivers to find potential new owners relates to two companies. The first is responsible for the manufacturing activity at the factory in Romans, a 3,800-square-metre facility that currently employs 32 workers. In the 14 months ending on August 31, 2024, the company generated a revenue of €4.5 million.
The second company is looking after the products’ commercialisation via the retail and wholesale channels, and online. It includes a factory outlet in Romans, a directly owned store in Paris, and several department store corners (at Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, and Le Bon Marché), and generated a revenue of €4.9 million over the same period. The second company has 20 employees.
Clergerie’s Parisian store is located at 5 rue du Cherche-Midi in the 6th arrondissement – Google Street View
Interested parties have until March 18 to put forward their bids. Clergerie also operates a few stores outside France, in Madrid, London and the USA, but they don’t seem to be included in this potential sale.
The brand was founded in 1981 by Robert Clergerie, and is one of the last bastions of French footwear production. It benefits from a long-standing industrial heritage, since Romans-sur-Isère has been a shoe manufacturing hub since the end of the 19th century. A few other iconic footwear brands hail from the same area, like Stéphane Kélian – owned by the Royer group and about to be relaunched – and Charles Jourdan, also owned by Royer but currently dormant. Charles Jourdan’s old factory in Romans, disused since 2010, used to employ up to 3,000 people in its heyday, but it is about to be demolished to make room for a secondary school, as reported by Le Dauphiné Libéré.
Perhaps a leading luxury name, or a footwear manufacturer, could be interested in buying Clergerie to stop its factory suffering the same fate.
Fashion e-tail giant ASOS on Wednesday unveiled a radical plan to restructure its business with some big leadership changes including an MD for the UK and US and another covering Europe and the rest of the world. Through all the numerous changes, there’s a clear theme of bringing commercial and customer functions together.
ASOS
CEO José Antonio Ramos Calamonte’s aim is to create a more joined-up business that has the customer’s needs at its heart. Decision-making should be accelerated and continuous innovation and improvement will be a core focus.
The 25-year-old company also said it has “significantly” reduced its stock levels, as well as improving its product and refinancing debt. That stock levels issue is a key point given how much surplus stock the company held in recent years.
The retailer, which currently has 20 million active customers in more than 200 markets, said the changes are expected to take effect from April.
So, what are the key leadership moves that have been announced? Importantly, the company has expanded Vanessa Spence’s role from executive vice-president of creative. With the firm since 2007, she steps up from ‘only’ leading the design and creative direction for all its owned brands to become EVP brand and creative. That’s a crucial move as it sees its brand and creative strategy coming together.
There there’s the aforementioned creation of MDs for the firm’s key regions. Current VP North America Sean Trend is becoming MD for the UK and US, which is a new role. And its SVP operations Jag Weatherley becomes MD for Europe and the rest-of-world region.
Meanwhile, Michelle Wilson, previously chief of staff and strategy, is now MD of Topshop and Topman and leading a dedicated cross-functional team to ensure the brands prosper as standalone since they were sold last autumn. The brands are now majority owned by Heartland, the holding company of major ASOS shareholder and Bestseller owner Anders Holch Povlsen. But ASOS retains a minority stake and continues to sell the high-profile labels.
ASOS
Wilson will also be in charge of the ASOS global wholesale division, that takes in its American partnership with Nordstrom in the US, its Indian one with Reliance Retail, and its European one with Bestseller.
Meanwhile, it was also announced that highly experienced Zalando’s software engineering VP Przemek Czarnecki joined ASOS earlier in February as its EVP technology. That role had been held by interim EVP Hugh Williams.
And that’s not the end of the changes. To “better align strategic decision-making and communication”, EVP people experience Ras Vaghjiani’s role is also expanding to become EVP people, communications and strategy. And supporting Vaghjiani will be Rishi Sharma, promoted from interim general counsel and company secretary to SVP corporate affairs and strategy.
The business is also creating product development teams (PDTs) with a focus on strategic priorities such as loyalty and Test & React with each team having an engineering lead partnered with a product manager. It comes as the firm has radically boosted its team of software engineers and product managers.
CEO José Antonio Ramos Calamonte called the news “an exciting new chapter for ASOS” that will better equip it for speedy growth.
The changes come as it fights back from a tough period that has seen its results (and its share price) declining sharply.