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Zalando expands its offering in Spain, introducing its beauty division to the market

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October 10, 2025

Zalando beauty has arrived in the Spanish market. The German online platform is expanding its offering in the country with what it describes as a “strategic” launch, making its beauty range available to local customers, including facial, body and hair care, nail care, make-up and fragrances.

Zalando Beauty launches in Spain – Zalando

With the addition of Spain, Zalando beauty is now available in 14 markets. The company, which only a few weeks ago launched in Portugal, aims to step up its Iberian expansion.

“This is a great opportunity for organic growth, in line with the strategy we are following to be a leading platform and destination for Spanish consumers in fashion and lifestyle,” said Eloisa Siclari, the company’s general manager for Southern Europe (Spain, Italy and Portugal), at the presentation of Zalando beauty in Madrid on Thursday.

“Spain is the 14th country in which we are launching this category. And we know from our experience in other markets that beauty builds customer loyalty, increases share of spend and boosts engagement with the platform. After 13 years of operating in the country, it was time for this launch. This is an opportunity to grow with customers, but also with the brands and partners we work with,” added the executive.

For its rollout in the country, Zalando beauty has opted to partner with local brands such as 3ina, a firm whose hallmarks include cruelty-free products, the use of colour and a keenly priced proposition.

“We are a German platform. But we say we want to be Spanish in Spain. And it’s not just a slogan; it’s a growth strategy. In other words, to be able to offer what is on-trend and what is in demand here, we need to work with local partners,” Siclari added.

“The Spanish market is very powerful in fashion, with very strong local pride and top-tier design talent. So being Spanish in Spain is also about quality. We don’t just look at the volume of brands we collaborate with; we focus on iconic, prestigious labels and cult products,” the Italian underlined.

Zalando’s work with brands is, according to the German company, a two-way street, not merely transactional.

“In B2B, our goal is to support brands; we want to be their partners at a strategic level, so that they grow internationally,” the company noted, referring to the visibility that brands get on the German e-commerce platform, which serves as a showcase for labels in markets beyond those in which they usually operate (the company is present in 26 countries, with a customer base of 52 million users, according to its figures).

From beauty as a gateway to exclusive agreements

According to Zalando’s internal figures, 70% of customers who purchase beauty items add fashion items to their basket.

“Therefore, beauty is an entry point for many consumers,” Siclari said.

Spain is the 14th country in which Zalando Beauty is available
Spain is the 14th country in which Zalando Beauty is available – Zalando

But what barriers has the company encountered when launching its beauty division in the Spanish market?

“Exclusivity with some retailers is one of them,” said Virginie Duigou, head of beauty buying at Zalando, referring to the agreements that national and international brands may have with retail chains.

“How do we solve this? One thing we do is approach U.S. brands and say, ‘Hey, Zalando is here; we can help you in Europe, we’re strong in those markets.’ Many U.S. brands know how to handle distribution in the UK, but not in the rest of Europe, which is a very fragmented region. Another lever is to focus on product niches, as we do with Korean beauty,” Duigou explained.

The executive also pointed to the role that collaborations with beauty-focused content creators play in driving business growth, to foster consumer identification — especially among Generation Z.

“Obviously, it’s a very digital generation; 70% buy online or via apps, including beauty. They even buy colognes without smelling them!” she joked.

As part of the presentation of Zalando beauty in Spain, Duigou also outlined some of the trends set to shape the sector. “Minimalist routines, beauty-on-the-go products, make-up with built-in skincare and, in fragrances, the use of very creative bottles and gourmet scents — aromas that are almost edible,” she said.

Founded in 2008 and headquartered in Berlin, Zalando posted revenue of €2.835 billion in the second quarter of 2025 and net profit of €96.6 million in the period, according to its latest published figures.

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Following meteoric rise, BHV boss Frédéric Merlin caught up in Shein storm

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December 8, 2025

Under fire since his alliance with Shein, Frédéric Merlin, the young head of BHV whose rise has been meteoric, admits he “underestimated” the challenge posed by the Paris department store, but stands by his strategy, intended to “keep retail alive.”

Frédéric Merlin, president of Société des Grands Magasins (SGM) and owner of BHV, during a photo shoot in Paris, 22 October 2025. – (AFP – Thibaud MORITZ)

“I always try to be humble, because at 34, you don’t know everything,” the executive recently told AFP during an interview on the sixth floor of the Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville.

It is here that Shein, the Asian e-commerce giant accused of unfair competition and environmental pollution, is due to open its first permanent shop on Wednesday, under an agreement with Société des Grands Magasins (SGM), the commercial property company founded in 2021 by Frédéric Merlin and his sister, Maryline.

Originally from the Lyon region and raised by a father who ran a small industrial piping business and a stay-at-home mother, the siblings’ fortune is estimated at €600 million, ranking them 233rd in France, according to Challenges.

A “friend” of former president Nicolas Sarkozy, Merlin benefited from the financial backing of businessman Jean-Paul Dufour, a shareholder alongside SGM with “a 42.5% stake in the majority of the group’s subsidiaries,” according to its latest social report published in August 2024, as noted by L’Express.

“Ocean liner”

The owner of the BHV business since 2023, SGM also operates a dozen shopping centres, as well as seven Galeries Lafayette stores in the provinces, five of which are set to host Shein.

In protest, several brands have announced they are leaving the Paris department store, already shunned by suppliers unhappy about a build-up of unpaid invoices, which Merlin says are linked to “tools” issues that are being resolved, and not to cash-flow problems.

Dropped by Banque des Territoires (an entity of Caisse des Dépôts et Consignations) for the acquisition of the BHV building, SGM has also been excluded from the Union du grand commerce de centre-ville (UCV), while the Galeries Lafayette group refuses to allow Shein to set up in stores bearing its name.

“Who would want to work with a pathological liar?” said Yann Rivoallan, president of the Fédération Française du Prêt-à-Porter Féminin, on RMC.

Merlin “is not collaborative”, Nicolas Bonnet-Oulaldj, the deputy mayor of Paris in charge of commerce, told AFP.

“He told everyone that he had the support of Anne Hidalgo regarding Shein, which is totally false.” More generally, Merlin didn’t realise he was taking on “an ocean liner”, according to the department store’s inter-union body.

“What I underestimated was all the political and media attention that comes with taking on this Paris monument right opposite City Hall,” admits Merlin, denouncing the “surrounding hypocrisy” in the face of Shein and its many consumers.

“Head of the family”

“We could have done better,” admits the man who says he has made BHV “profitable” and works “14 hours a day.”

Born in the Lyon suburb of Vénissieux, Merlin grew up in a family that gave him “self-confidence” and “entrepreneurial drive.” After a spell at law school, the young man obtained a BTS in property, having been drawn to the profession during a placement.

Armed with a “€15,000 student loan,” he and his sister founded, at the age of 20, a commercial property consultancy (IMEA) before launching another (ADI) in 2014, specialising in the redevelopment of commercial buildings.

The Merlins hired their father, who brought his “industrial rigour,” until his death in 2018, the year SGM was launched, turning around shopping centres that nobody wanted any more in towns such as Roubaix or Mulhouse.

“You had to have a lot of nerve,” recalls Fabrice Fubert, co-director of a commercial property consultancy, who notably suggested in 2021 that Merlin acquire seven Galeries Lafayette stores.

Not “from the establishment,” Merlin is “an audacious man who takes risks and shakes things up,” as when he brought in Pokémon or YouTuber Squeezie for pop-up shops at BHV, says Fabrice Fubert.

The father of a young boy, Merlin asserts his role as “head of the family,” putting himself on the front line to “protect” his sister and his mother, Dominique, SGM’s deputy managing director.

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Birks sales surge on European acquisition, strong retail performance

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December 8, 2025

Birks announced on Friday a 16.2% uptick in half-year sales to $93.1 million, on the back of the Canadian jeweller’s acquisition of European Boutique, and a strong retail performance.

Birks

The Montreal-based company also logged an increase in third-party branded timepieces across multiple brands for the 26 weeks ending September 27, in addition to gains in sales of Birks branded jewelry and third-party branded jewelry.

Meanwhile, comparable store sales rose 6.3%, attributable to strong sales in all product categories, particularly in third-party branded timepieces, but also in Birks branded jewelry and third-party branded jewelry, the company added.

In light of the strong sales performance, Birks narrowed its earnings loss during the six months to an operating loss of $0.2 million, compared to a reported operating loss of $0.3 million in the prior-year period.

“Our net sales, gross profit and comparable store sales for the first half of Fiscal 2026 are higher than the corresponding period in Fiscal 2025 due in part to the acquisition of the European business but also due to our strong retail performance, which speaks to the strength of our product offerings, both in terms of our Birks branded products and our third-party branded watches and jewelry,” said Niccolò Rossi di Montelera, executive chairman of the board and interim CEO.

“I would like to thank our teams for their dedication and hard work. The growth achieved in the first half of Fiscal 2026 is a testament of our commitment to our customers and I am grateful for the unwavering efforts of all our employees which contributed to these results and the successful integration of the European stores.”

In July, Birks acquired the luxury watch and jewellery business of European Boutique from its founders, the Sutkiewicz family, for a purchase price of $9 million.

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Koio relaunches the Primo with Rose Anvil

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December 7, 2025

NYC-based footwear brand Koio is relaunching The Primo, the high-top sneaker that debuted the brand in 2015, in a limited-edition collaboration with leatherworker and YouTube creator Rose Anvil for its tenth anniversary.

Koio relaunches the Primo with Rose Anvil. – Koio

The updated Primo maintains Koio’s original Italian build standards, with internal upgrades including a full leather Strobel board, leather toe cap and counter, and a gum outsole. The upper is crafted from vegetable-tanned, untreated Vachetta calf leather sourced from Italian tannery Conceria Annarita, allowing the sneaker to naturally darken and develop a unique patina with wear.

“Reintroducing the Primo for our ten-year anniversary is incredibly meaningful,” said Johannes Quodt, co-founder of Koio. “It was the shoe that launched the brand, so bringing it back with Rose Anvil’s technical rigor felt like the right way to honor its legacy. The Vachetta leather will age beautifully, making this one of the most personal and character-rich versions we’ve ever created.”

The Primo first debuted in February 2015 at Koio’s Bowery pop-up, created by the founders as their ideal high-top sneaker. The silhouette remained a core style for five years before the brand shifted focus as its range expanded. Koio continued to receive requests from collectors and longtime customers to bring back the original design, prompting the reissue as part of the brand’s tenth-anniversary celebrations.

“The Primo was already a well-built sneaker, but replacing every internal synthetic component with leather significantly elevates the craftsmanship,” said Weston Kay, Rose Anvil. “Using untreated Vachetta leather means the shoe doesn’t just look good out of the box but it continues to improve over time.”

Koio’s work with Rose Anvil follows the success of their first collaboration—the Koio x Rose Anvil Capri Triple White—which sold out in less than 24 hours.

The limited-edition Primo is priced at $325 and is now available exclusively online.

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