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Woolrich shows third Black Label collection in Milan, prepares China retail expansion

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Nicola Mira

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January 23, 2025

Woolrich has shown at Milan Fashion Week Men its third Black Label collection, created in collaboration with US designer Todd Snyder, founder of the eponymous New York-based label, who was named global creative director of Woolrich Black Label at the end of 2023.

Woolrich Black Label, Fall/Winter 2025-26 – DR

 
“We’ve had very interesting feedback from consumers on the Black Label line,” said Lorenzo Flamini, CFO of Woolrich, talking to FashionNetwork.com. “The Black Label line is currently available on our e-shop and at about 10 directly operated stores between Europe and Japan, as well as on the Todd Snyder e-shop and at the label’s 25 stores in the USA,” he added.

The Woolrich Black Label collection for Fall/Winter 2025-26 is inspired by the volcanic and glacial landscapes of Northern Europe. It reinterprets performance outerwear and winter apparel in a contemporary way, combining functionality, luxury and elegance. Snyder has named the 60-item collection ‘Ice Fall’. It reflects the essence of nature in the wilderness through key items like the oversize, glacier-inspired tie-dye parka, the triple-layered waterproof wool field jacket, and the water-repellent nylon cargo jacket, decorated with a printed pattern evoking the frozen surfaces of Nordic lakes. Also included, a new take on Woolrich’s iconic Buffalo Check shirt, enhanced with reflective fibres woven into the fabric.

Woolrich Black Label, Fall/Winter 2025-26 – DR

 
“My goal with this collection was to reinterpret the concept of ‘rugged luxury’, combining technical outerwear silhouettes designed for extreme conditions with fabrics of the highest quality, redesigned to resist the elements,” Snyder said. “The result is a wardrobe that embodies the concept of ‘wanderluxe’: Garments that are as functional as they are sophisticated, perfect for exploring nature as well as city streets in style,” he added.

Woolrich has produced the garments in collaboration with Italian manufacturers including Olmetex, Limonta, Bacci and Majocchi, aiming to develop exclusive fabrics combining high performance with elegance. The colour palette is minimalist and sophisticated, featuring hues like Meteorite Black, Oyster Mushroom and Cardamom Seed, accented with bright Aurora Red accents. “I wanted a mix of all the elements I love: streetwear, workwear, military style, vintage and luxury. The outcome is a collection that responds to the contemporary demand for garments that are as practical as they are stylistically unique,” said Snyder.
 

Woolrich Black Label, Fall/Winter 2025-26 – DR

In retail distribution terms, Woolrich is continuing its partnership with Baoxiniao Holdings Co. Ltd. The deal with the Chinese group, owner of brands like Saint Angelo, Hazzys, Bono and Camicissima, was announced last December, and is aimed at expanding Woolrich’s presence in Asia.

“Our focus is on China, a market in which we already have a presence that we can define as superficial, but in which we want to grow via our new local partner. We’re planning to open a series of monobrand stores, the first few of them this year,” concluded Flamini. According to company policy, he declined to share any detail of Woolrich’s 2024 financial results.

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Fashion

German retailers see slower sales growth over consumer uncertainty

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January 31, 2025

German retail sales rose in 2024, but growth should be more modest this year due to the high level of uncertainty, according to retail association HDE.

Last year, retail sales rose 1.1% compared to the previous year in inflation-adjusted terms, official data showed on Friday. The HDE forecasts 0.5% growth in real terms this year.

“Consumption and the retail sector in Germany will not really gain momentum in 2025 either,” said HDE managing director Stefan Genth.
“There is simply too much uncertainty,” he said. “Wars, high energy costs and overall economic stagnation are a toxic cocktail for consumption.”

In nominal terms, retail sales rose by 2.5% in 2024 and are expected to grow by 2.0% in 2025, according to HDE’s forecast.

The latest HDE survey with 700 retailers shows that 22% of respondents expect sales to increase this year, while almost half of them expect results to be below the previous year’s level.

In December, retail sales fell by 1.6% compared with the previous month, official data showed. Analysts had predicted a 0.2% increase.

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John Lewis had disappointing festive season

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January 31, 2025

Many big names in UK retail had a good Christmas season — despite the sector being generally sluggish — but it seems John Lewis Partnership (JLP) may not have been one of them.

The retailer — which operates its eponymous department stores and webstore, plus Waitrose supermarkets — has missed its profit target after a disappointing festive season.

It hasn’t shared any info officially but internal documents seen by The Telegraph suggest bad news to come when it does release its results.

Those internal documents have only been shared with staff so far with the company saying that sales have fallen short of expectations and it’s unlikely to achieve its hoped-for £131 million full-year profit.

The company is said to have blamed “lower consumer confidence and weaker than expected market confidence” for the sales miss in the month to 21 December, although also the fact that key trading days fell outside the period.

Sales targets were missed at both of the firm’s chains, although the newspaper said it still claimed it outperformed rivals and staff should be “proud of our performance”.

It will be interesting therefore to see exactly what its figures were as  a number of rivals have actually reported a good Christmas. If its stores have beaten other supermarkets and chains like M&S, perhaps its targets were too ambitious in the first place.

We won’t know for a while, but we do know that with M&S resurgent, JLP’s supermarkets and department stores have lost some of their lustre as the destination of choice for Britain’s middle classes.

So what were the firm’s benchmarks? Back in September it had said it was seeing strong demand and expected a significant rise in profits for the year to January. The prior year’s pre-tax profit had been £56 million and the year before that it made a loss.

It had also talked about its turnaround efforts paying off and that it was seeing a “considerable improvement” in performance, with the John Lewis chain in particular expected to benefit from a buoyant second half.

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Kim Jones steps down from Dior menswear creative helm

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January 31, 2025

Christian Dior Couture announced on Friday that Kim Jones, its Dior Homme artistic director, is leaving the post after seven years.

Dior Men – Spring-Summer2025 – Menswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

It’s been rumoured for some time that he would exit the label but it’s not yet known what his next step will be.

Jones has been widely praised for his work at Dior with his latest men’s collection shown this month being hailed as a success.

He’s been a key creative at LVMH having also designed its Fendi women’s collections. And he helmed Louis Vuitton’s menswear before he joined Dior.

The company said it “wishes to express its deepest gratitude” to the designer “who has accelerated the development of Men’s collections internationally and has greatly contributed to the worldwide influence of the House by creating an inspiring wardrobe that is both classic and contemporary, and connected to some artists of our time”.

And Delphine Arnault, who’s chairman and CEO of Christian Dior Couture, added: “I am extremely grateful for the remarkable work done by Kim Jones, his studio, and the ateliers. With all his talent and creativity, he has constantly reinterpreted the House’s heritage with genuine freedom of tone and surprising, highly desirable artistic collaborations.”

Jones meanwhile called it a “true honour to have been able to create my collections within the House of Dior, a symbol of absolute excellence. I express my deep gratitude to my studio and the ateliers who have accompanied me on this wonderful journey. They have brought my creations to life. I would also like to take this opportunity to thank the artists and friends I have met through my collaborations. Lastly, I feel sincere gratitude towards Bernard and Delphine Arnault, who have given me their full support.”

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