Fatalism but definitely no defeatism: this was the prevailing mood during the week-end at the Porte de Versailles exhibition centre in Paris, as economic uncertainty loomed over the September edition of trade show Who’s Next, which ended on Monday.

Apparel consumption in France recorded a slight downturn in H1, slowed down by a weak July, and everyone’s antennae were up during the show, given a global situation characterised by the new tariff policies deployed by the US administration under Donald Trump, Russia’s ongoing invasion of Ukraine, and the Israel-Palestine conflict. As well as the general inability to predict the decisions that will be taken by France’s political leaders, heralding a troubled September, both politically and socially.

The French fashion industry seems to have come to terms with these variables, and business was encouraging during the show’s first two days. Hall 1 at the Porte de Versailles exhibition centre was alive with colour, and featured a plethora of highly distinctive, amusing stands and section installations. Like the panels presenting next season’s trends, or an area where visitors could play hook-the-duck, and well-appointed break areas. Among the exhibitors, plenty of ready-to-wear and accessories brands, a few beauty brands, beach and swimwear brands in the Curve section, jewellery distribution and sourcing specialists at Bijorhca, and suppliers specialising in a variety of sectors, notably lingerie, at Interfilière. The Lab section featured stands of innovative service providers, and other sections showcased textile innovations and, for the first time, 43 lifestyle brands.

The new Lifestyle section is located at the heart of the show, with a special layout. Exhibitors include tableware producers, designer furniture, perfumed candles and stationery brands.

“We have designed it with a somewhat minimalist approach, as we did with Matter & Shape [the object design show introduced during fashion week in parallel with Première Classe]. The range of exhibitors is diversified, and features 10 product categories. This section’s first edition was something of an unknown for us. The feedback is positive, as exhibitors are managing to make contact with clients and forging links with players from other sectors, for potential collaborations,” said Matthieu Pinet, in charge of the show’s Lifestyle section.

The Lifestyle section was both vibrant and inspiring, and designed as a bridge with the show’s sourcing sections and the most prominent ready-to-wear brands. The latter in particular were happy with the show layout, having been placed right at the exhibition area’s entrance.

“We’ve been making interesting contacts since Saturday,” said Libertad Arias of Spanish brand Skätie, which has some 50 retail clients in France. “Attendance is much higher than in January, this is one of Europe’s top trade shows for women’s ready-to-wear,” she added.

“There’s been a good atmosphere since opening day,” said Delphine Lopez, creative director and owner of accessories and leather goods brand Maradji. The La Rochelle-based brand is distributed via over 200 stores, and takes part in Who’s Next twice a year, as well as exhibiting at Maison & Objet in January. “We’ve had a better summer, with sunshine and customers keen to buy, so this September session is getting off to a good start,” said Lopez.
 

A similar sentiment was echoed at the stand of ready-to-wear label Perpète, a sustainable brand that debuted with childrenswear, and has recently switched focus to womenswear. Perpète is presenting its colourful, cheerful range of sweatshirts, T-shirts and polos for the first time at Who’s Next – having exhibited in the past at Maison & Objet and at childrenswear show Playtime – seeking to attract multibrand retailers. “The childrenswear market is complex, and many children’s brands are entering the adult market, where margins are better. Some still develop small children’s collections in order to optimise materials costs,” said Nathalie Parmentier, co-founder of Perpète, underlining the need to know how to listen to the market.

The initial mood was optimistic at Portuguese footwear brand Sanjo too. “Some show sessions have been awkward in the past, but we’re feeling a positive energy,” said Mytch Phan, who handles the brand’s distribution in France. Sanjo was founded in Portugal in the 1930s and, after closing down in 1996, was given a fresh lease of life under new ownership in 2019.

French apparel brand Cocorico, exhibiting at a trade show for the first time, was enthusiastic. “We had a great welcome, with visits on Saturday by Parisian concept stores, large stores from just outside Paris, and various multibrand retailers,” said Arthur Charle, CEO of Cocorico. This year, the brand is expecting to top the one million units sold mark, and is taking its first steps in physical retail, with the goal of reaching 100 stores by the end of 2026.

Exhibiting at Impact, the section featuring the most sustainable brands, Déluge was taking part in Who’s Next for the third time. “Saturday was a little quiet,” said Matisse Picaud, co-founder of Déluge, characterised by stylish urban collections perfectly concealing the kind of weather-proof layers usually found in outdoor apparel. The brand is keen to expand its distribution footprint by tapping concept stores and multibrand retailers focusing on sustainable fashion.

The stand of crowdfunding specialist Ulule, featuring funding-hungry start-ups, was busy in the show’s first two days, as visitors browsed products by inclusive apparel brand Lyk, cashmere specialist Raev, sneakers brand Agapara, and cosmetics brand Harmo. The Who’s Next Lab section also proved very popular, showcasing 3D printing solutions for accessories brand INCXNNUE and ready-to-wear brand Blanca Martin Hernandez, as well as AI tools for fashion design by CDamslab and Miraggia.

“I’m pleasantly surprised, because the show is being held at the end of the season and many buyers have already fulfilled their budgets. Attendance is good, and for brands like us, keen to attract new clients, this is an interesting event because [buyers] often use their residual budget to test new names,” said Guillerme, head of wholesale expansion at Catalan brand Two Thirds, which first entered the wholesale channel three seasons ago.

At King Louie, the colourful Dutch brand’s executives preferred to wait until Monday evening before drawing a final assessment, but said that some clients had done good business in the first half of the year, and duly came to Who’s Next.

Jean-Michel Sanchez, founder of French brand Deeluxe and a regular at Who’s Next, said that buyers from both multibrand chains and independent stores from France and abroad have visited the show during the first two days. “We’re pushing womenswear, and this show is still the most productive, alongside CIFF in Copenhagen and Modefabriek in Amsterdam, though they are smaller in scale,” said Sanchez. Two-thirds of Deeluxe’s stand was reserved for womenswear in this session. 

Who’s Next managed to attract visitors to the most peripheral areas of the exhibition centre’s Hall 1, which it occupies in its entirety, notably by positioning the highly popular jewellery section towards the margins, alongside the areas dedicated to conferences and product innovation, as well as the Interfilière section. “Buyers are surprised not to see a section dedicated to lingerie,” said however Jean-Hugues Perrin, a member of the fifth generation of the family running Tissages Perrin, an exhibitor at Interfilière. Perrin questioned the wisdom of focusing on the lingerie and swimwear supply chain at Interfilière, without an area specifically focusing on finished products. But he noted that this show follows Interfilière Preview, held in Paris on July 3-4, “a very fine little show,” featuring a dozen suppliers. “The increase in customs duties is having little direct impact at the moment, but we have to see how the industry will react in the USA,” said Perrin.

By OG, SA and MG.