VIPs and fashion insiders are jostling for invitations to one of the most-coveted shows at Paris Fashion Week: Matthieu Blazy’s debut at Chanel. But who is the 41-year-old designer?
The Franco-Belgian designer is relatively under the radar — not one of the celebrity names considered for the job — and was chosen for Chanel following a highly successful three-year tenure at Italian luxury label Bottega Veneta.
The new role marks a major promotion, catapulting him from a mid-sized Italian house to Chanel — the world’s second-largest luxury fashion label with annual sales of around $20 billion.
Blazy reportedly impressed during the recruitment process with his in-depth creative presentations. He embodies “a new generation with sincere humility,” Chanel fashion president Bruno Pavlovsky said when announcing his appointment.
Beyond his creative vision, that remark also underlined another of Blazy’s widely recognized traits: a lack of ego in an industry known for its larger-than-life personalities.
That makes him a strong fit for Chanel’s discreet family owners, Alain and Gérard Wertheimer, who were reportedly seeking a loyal and low-profile figure to become only the fourth creative director in the brand’s storied history.
“Chanel is a privately owned family house,” Serge Carreira, a fashion expert at Sciences Po university in Paris, told AFP following Blazy’s appointment. “The brand can take a long-term approach and allow time for things.”
Blazy’s biggest challenge will be leading Chanel into a new era after the 40-year reign of its legendary designer, Karl Lagerfeld.
Until last year, Chanel was led by Virginie Viard, Lagerfeld’s handpicked successor. The in-house team has designed this year’s collections.
‘Hottest tickets’
Blazy earned widespread acclaim at Bottega Veneta, where he modernized the iconic Italian leather goods house’s identity. He introduced a more daring, playful edge while broadening the product offering.
He led the launch of the brand’s first fragrances and high-end jewelry, and reinvented its signature “intrecciato” woven patterns with hit bags such as the Kalimero, Andiamo, and Sardine.
One of his most talked-about creations was a pair of $7,000 leather jeans, printed to look indistinguishable from traditional denim.
His Milan Fashion Week shows — attended by stars like Julianne Moore and Jennifer Lawrence — quickly became marquee events. “A top highlight, consistently among the hottest tickets,” said Robert Williams, luxury editor at The Business of Fashion, in comments to AFP.
But Chanel presents a different level of pressure. “The pressure to back up that creative edge with wearable designs is certainly a lot higher,” Williams added.
Blazy gave a glimpse of his aesthetic at the Venice Film Festival earlier this month, where British actress Tilda Swinton appeared in loosely cut white trousers and a short-sleeved blouse — an understated preview of what’s to come.
The full collection will be revealed in Paris on October 6, the penultimate day of Paris Fashion Week, which kicks off on Monday.
A heavy smoker who often dresses in jeans and a T-shirt, Blazy is known for his love of contemporary art and close friendship with Belgian designer Raf Simons — a mentor who hired him twice.
Raised in Paris by his art expert father and historian mother, Blazy grew up alongside a twin sister and brother.
“Tom Sawyer was my childhood hero,” he told The New York Times last year, referring to the free-spirited protagonist of Mark Twain’s novel.
His teenage rebellious streak led to him being sent to boarding schools in both France and England.
After completing high school, he studied fashion at La Cambre in Brussels. Upon graduation, he was hired by Simons — launching a career that has taken him through some of the most prestigious European and American fashion houses.
He first rose to public attention in 2014, as part of an anonymous collective that designed a collection for French label Maison Margiela.
British fashion journalist Suzy Menkes was so impressed with his fabric work that she publicly revealed his name in Vogue, writing: “You can’t keep such a talent under wraps.”
That exposure propelled him into new roles, including at Celine and later at Calvin Klein, where he rejoined Simons in New York.
Their two-year stint in the U.S. ended abruptly in 2018 when both were let go. Blazy described the moment to The New York Times, saying he found himself standing in the street with a cardboard box containing his office belongings.
“It felt like a movie,” he told The New York Times.
The demerger of Unilever‘s ice cream division, to be named ‘The Magnum Ice Cream Company,’ which had been delayed in recent months by the US government shutdown, will finally go ahead on Saturday, the British group announced.
Reuters
Unilever said in a statement on Friday that the admission of the new entity’s shares to listing and trading in Amsterdam, London, and New York, as well as the commencement of trading… is expected to take place on Monday, December 8.
The longest federal government shutdown in US history, from October 1 to November 12, fully or partially affected many parts of the federal government, including the securities regulator, after weeks without an agreement between Donald Trump‘s Republicans and the Democratic opposition.
Unilever, which had previously aimed to complete the demerger by mid-November, warned in October that the US securities regulator (SEC) was “not in a position to declare effective” the registration of the new company’s shares. However, the group said it was “determined to implement in 2025” the separation of a division that also includes the Ben & Jerry’s and Cornetto brands, and which will have its primary listing in Amsterdam.
“The registration statement” for the shares in the US “became effective on Thursday, December 4,” Unilever said in its statement. Known for Dove soaps, Axe deodorants and Knorr soups, the group reported a slight decline in third-quarter sales at the end of October, but beat market expectations.
Under pressure from investors, including the activist fund Trian of US billionaire Nelson Peltz, to improve performance, the group last year unveiled a strategic plan to focus on 30 power brands. It then announced the demerger of its ice cream division and, to boost margins, launched a cost-saving plan involving 7,500 job cuts, nearly 6% of the workforce. Unilever’s shares on the London Stock Exchange were steady on Friday shortly after the market opened, at 4,429 pence.
This article is an automatic translation. Click here to read the original article.
Burberry has named a new chief operating and supply chain officer as well as a new chief customer officer. They’re both key roles at the recovering luxury giant and both are being promoted from within.
Matteo Calonaci becomes chief operating and supply chain officer, moving from his role as senior vice-president of strategy and transformation at the firm.
In his new role, he’ll be oversee supply chain and planning, strategy and transformation, and data and analytics. He succeeds Klaus Bierbrauer, who’s currently Burberry supply chain and industrial officer. Bierbrauer will be leaving the company following its winter show and a transition period.
Matteo Calonaci – Burberry
Meanwhile, Johnattan Leon steps up as chief customer officer. He’s currently currently Burberry’s senior vice-president of commercial and chief of staff. In his new role he’ll be leading Burberry’s customer, client engagement, customer service and retail excellence teams, while also overseeing its digital, outlet and commercial operations.
Both Calonaci and Leon will join the executive committee, reporting to Company CEO Joshua Schulman.
JohnattanLeon – Burberry
Schulman said of the two execs that the appointments “reflect the exceptional talent and leadership we have at Burberry. Both Matteo and Johnattan have been instrumental in strengthening our focus on executional excellence and elevating our customer experience. Their deep understanding of our business, our people, and our customers gives me full confidence that their leadership will help drive [our strategy] Burberry Forward”.
Traditional and occasion wear designer Puneet Gupta has stepped into the world of fine jewellery with the launch of ‘Deco Luméaura,’ a collection designed to blend heritage and contemporary aesthetics while taking inspiration from the dramatic landscapes of Ladakh.
Hints of Ladakh’s heritage can be seen in this sculptural evening bag – Puneet Gupta
“For me, Deco Luméaura is an exploration of transformation- of material, of story, of self,” said Puneet Gupta in a press release. “True luxury isn’t perfect; it is intentional. Every piece is crafted to be lived with and passed on.”
The jewellery collection features cocktail rings, bangles, chokers, necklaces, and statement evening bags made in recycled brass and finished with 24 carat gold. The stones used have been kept natural to highlight their imperfect and unique forms and each piece in the collection has been hammered, polished, and engraved by hand.
An eclectic mix of jewels from the collection – Puneet Gupta
Designed to function as wearable art pieces, the colourful jewellery echoes the geometry of Art Deco while incorporating distinctly South Asian imagery such as camels, butterflies, and tassels. Gupta divides his time between his stores in Hyderabad and Delhi and aims to bring Indian artistry to a global audience while crafting a dialogue between designer and artisan.