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Whistles maintains ‘steady performance’ despite challenges hitting financials

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December 23, 2025

TFG London and its brands Hobbs and Phase Eight reported their results a few days ago and now its Whistles chain has done likewise. And just like Phase Eight, it’s obviously faced some challenges in the year to late March 2025.

Whistles

The TFG-owned trio are moving in the right direction on many fronts but that doesn’t mean everything in the garden is rosy for contemporary womenswear label Whistles.

The company said that turnover during the year dropped to £57.7 million from £65.7 million and adjusted EBITDA dipped to £4.7 million from £5 million. Operating profit was down to £1.8 million from £2.5 million and profit after tax fell to £0.5 million from £0.9 million.

The company sells through its own stores, online and through department store concessions and operates both in the UK and internationally.

TFG noted a “steady performance for the year despite the ongoing challenging economic backdrop in the UK”. It added that Whistles grew its direct channel mix to 54.6% from 50% and while there was growth in its own channels, it underperformed in concessions where sales dropped 15% year on year. That reflects the performance at its stablemates Hobbs and Phase Eight with concessions also something of an issue for them during the year.

That was the main cause of Whistles’ 12% turnover drop, along with the fact that the company closed 19 stores while only opening five new ones. In fact, by the end of the financial year in the UK the company had 109 stores/concessions, down from 123 a year earlier.

But there was good news in that the gross margin was up at 69.9% from 67% due to that higher direct channel mix. The company’s distribution costs edged up but that was mainly due to a one-off warehouse move in March, the results filing said. Also good news is that administrative expenses were lower as a result of the drive to control costs.

We’ve reported other positive developments for Whistles towards the end of the year covered here, as well as post-year-end. 

In early March this year it joined the ‘Brands at M&S‘ platform. That’s a hugely important move that puts it in front of millions more consumers. OK, it probably wasn’t positive overall in the early months of the deal due to the well-publicised cyberattack that took M&S offline for quite a few months. But it should have an overall beneficial effect longer term.

In April, it also appointed its very first creative director as it aimed to elevate and redefine its design direction and its overall creative vision.

Jacqui Markham joined after a career in which she’d been design director at Topshop and Topman, ASOS and Urban Outfitters Europe. She’d also been a designer at Oasis and Karen Millen and more recently was a freelance design consultant.

Her immediate boss at Whistles, product director Camille Sullivan, said she would be “instrumental in driving both the brand and our product offering forward in our next stage of growth”.

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California-based group VSP Vision has completed its acquisition of Marcolin from PAI Partners

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December 23, 2025

On December 23, 2025, US eyewear giant VSP Vision announced that it had completed the acquisition of Italian eyewear group Marcolin- another of the world’s leading companies in the sector- from private equity firm PAI Partners and other minority shareholders.

Marcolin headquarters – Marcolin

“The acquisition of Marcolin marks another important milestone in our 70-year history, dedicated to providing our members, customers, doctors within the VSP network, company-owned stores, and key partners with ever greater value and a broader offering,” said Michael Guyette, president and CEO of VSP Vision. “Marcolin’s portfolio of global brands, manufacturing excellence, and geographical footprint complement Marchon Eyewear‘s brands and capabilities perfectly, further strengthening our ability to meet the evolving needs of customers around the world.”

VSP Vision’s portfolio already includes fellow US company Marchon, one of the world’s most renowned specialist eyewear players, which it acquired in 2008 for more than $700 million. Marchon is a licensee of US brands such as Calvin Klein, Nike, and DKNY, as well as designer labels including Ferragamo, Paul Smith, and Victoria Beckham.

Marcolin and Marchon will continue to operate as they do today, VSP Vision said in its statement. The amount paid by the Rancho Cordova, California-based company (formerly known as CVS-California Vision Services, and founded in Oakland, California, in 1955) was not disclosed, but according to informed sources cited in the eyewear trade press in recent months, PAI had sought a valuation of Marcolin in excess of 1 billion euros ($1.2 billion).

In 2012, PAI Partners acquired a 78.39% stake in the Veneto-based Marcolin group, buying it from shareholders party to a shareholders’ agreement (the Marcolin family and the Della Valle brothers) and from Antonio Abete, for about 207 million euros. The private equity fund had been seeking to sell Marcolin since 2022 and, after a succession of bids and more or less concrete options for potential buyers (from EssilorLuxottica to Kering Eyewear, Safilo, Hong Kong’s FountainVest fund, and HAL Investments), VSP’s offer ultimately prevailed.

Marcolin’s portfolio, which distributes its products in more than 125 countries, includes the proprietary brands Web Eyewear and Ic! Berlin, and the licensed brands Tom Ford (under a perpetual licence), Guess, Adidas Sport, Adidas Originals, Christian Louboutin, Max Mara, Zegna, GCDS, MAX&Co., MCM, Pucci, BMW, K-Way, Kenneth Cole, Abercrombie & Fitch, Hollister, Rag & Bone, Timberland, Gant, Harley-Davidson, Marciano, and Skechers.

Marcolin ended the first nine months of 2025 with revenues of 416.6 million euros, up 2.1% year on year. The main markets remained EMEA and the Americas, which posted revenues of 218.6 million (+7.6%) and 142.7 million (-5.5%), respectively. The Asian market, a high-potential region for the group, fully recovered in the third quarter of 2025 from the temporary slowdown. EBITDA was 68.5 million, accounting for 16.4% of net sales. In FY2024, total revenues amounted to 545.8 million euros, down 2.2% at current exchange rates.

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Italian fashion group Goodfellas merges by incorporation with Golden Season

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Nicola Mira

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December 23, 2025

Two Brescia-based Italian fashion companies have joined forces. Following the respective AGMs, the shareholders of Golden Season S.r.l., owner among others of menswear label AT.P.CO, and of Goodfellas S.r.l., which produces men’s and women’s outerwear and apparel label People of Shibuya, have announced that Goodfellas has merged by incorporation with Golden Season. The merger was made official on December 16, and will be effective from December 31, 2025. 

Looks by AT.P.CO, Fall/Winter 2025-26

From that date, Golden Season, a company based in Erbusco, near Brescia, will assume in full the rights and obligations relating to Goodfellas, which is based in Brescia, taking over all of the latter’s contracts and dealings, whether commercial, financial, and legal.
 
Golden Season develops, manufactures, and sells apparel collections for major Italian private labels and third-party brands, operating through a national and international distribution network. Goodfellas is a fashion and accessories wholesaler, and its business activities are complementary to those of Golden Season. In recent years, Goodfellas has consolidated its position in the fashion wholesale and retail distribution sectors, for both third-party and its own brands, recording positive results.

People of Shibuya, Fall/Winter 2025-26
People of Shibuya, Fall/Winter 2025-26

The operation is set to optimise and exploit the manufacturing and commercial synergies between the two companies, combining their production and distribution activities more efficiently. The objective, stated the two companies, is to strengthen Golden Season’s competitive position on the Italian and international apparel market.
 
Following the merger, Golden Season’s brand portfolio will include AT.P.CO, After Label, Skills Milano, and People of Shibuya. The merger will also enable the group to report its fiscal 2025 results as a single entity, marking a further step in the integration and streamlining of its business.

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Lacroix steps up expansion, bolsters premium positioning in the French mountains with two new boutiques

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December 23, 2025

The end of 2025 marks a phase of acceleration for Lacroix, which is strengthening its mountain presence with the opening of two owned boutiques in emblematic French resorts. On November 29, the brand opened its first store in Val d’Isère, followed on December 4 by a boutique in Courchevel 1850. These two strategic addresses, each spanning 140 square metres, underscore Lacroix’s determination to establish a lasting presence in the leading premium ski destinations.

DR

In Val d’Isère, the brand has set up a chalet-style boutique at Parc 1963, avenue Olympique, conceived as a warm, contemporary refuge. In Courchevel 1850, the Lacroix Igloo, located on rue des Verdons, offers a more minimalist, architectural aesthetic inspired by the purity of the high mountains. Coinciding with these openings is the launch of an exclusive Lacroix x Courchevel capsule, further reinforcing the brand’s visibility over the winter season.

Founded in 1966 by Léo Lacroix, an Olympic alpine skiing champion, the brand has established itself as a benchmark in high-end French skiing thanks to its exacting standards of technical expertise and performance. After a more challenging period marked by safeguard proceedings, Lacroix embarked on a new phase of development from 2022, following its takeover by Günther Doll and Damien Bodoy. This relaunch centres on a clear upmarket repositioning. Today, production is carried out mainly in Italy and Portugal, while the historic factory remains in Italy.

As part of this strategy, the brand is stepping up targeted collaborations to reach a younger clientele and refresh its image. The collaboration with Jacquemus follows a deliberately timed schedule: the capsule has been available since December 1, a few days before the opening of the Courchevel 1850 boutique and immediately after the opening in Val d’Isère.

With these two openings, Lacroix now operates two owned boutiques, alongside 45 wholesale points of sale in France and 20 internationally, notably in Korea, Canada, the US, and Austria. The brand anticipates 30% growth and plans to open around 10 new points of sale over the coming years. Revenue is estimated at 2.2 million euros in 2025, with a clear ambition to reach 10 million euros by 2028-2030. In this vein, Lacroix is already preparing its next collaboration with APM Monaco for the 2026/2027 season.

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