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What has become of the iconic Los Angeles neighborhood?

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February 2, 2025

In stark contrast to the malls of Los Angeles, Melrose Place has been setting itself apart for the past 25 years.

Developed in the early 1970s around a church and a theater, this romantic two-block street was long occupied by antique shops, art galleries and decorating brands, as well as a few architects’ offices, including that of Scott Mitchell. It gained international popularity in the mid-90s, thanks to the TV series of the same name, although it was not actually filmed in Melrose Place.

Balmain store at 8421 Melrose Place, Los Angeles – Alexis Chenu

Now tree-lined and bird-whistling, Melrose Place is monopolized by fashion brands, some of which have their one and only West Coast store here. In all, Melrose Place boasts 48 shops stretching from North Melrose Avenue in the West to East La Cienega in the East. The luxury sector, which has a strong presence on Melrose Place, now boasts 12 houses, all vying for the finest architectural projects to showcase their collections, and finding addresses here that are far more practical and confidential than Beverly Hills, and paparazzi-free, to bring in stylists and celebrities. 
 
Italian fashion label Marni was one of the first to set up shop here in 2004. A remarkable boutique with giant porthole windows. The second The Row store opened in 2014 by sisters Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen. A particularly charming location, with a pool and a superb patio featuring an olive tree planted in tribute to their friend James “Jay” Ott, who died in 2014. An ultra-selective building, formerly occupied by singer Neil Diamond and hair salon John Frieda, where sales teams forbid photos to be taken, a rarity in Los Angeles.

Another fashion institution on Melrose Place, Belgian fashion house Martin Margiela, which opened in 2023, revealed its brand new design concept in a fabulous Art Deco building, after several years in Beverly Hills. Breaking completely with its former clinical and couture spirit, the new concept imagined by Dutch architect Anne Holtrop, plays with raw materials, abstract forms and natural cuts. In the middle of the store, a screen-like installation all in white plaster, highlights the 5AC line. 

New VIP space at Chloe store at 8448 Melrose Place, Los Angeles – Alexis Chenu

 
Also featured are Balmain, Oscar de la Renta, Bottega Veneta, and Chloé, which opened in 2009 and has just opened a brand-new VIP and event space featuring elegant vintage furniture and paintings by Danish artist Mie Olise Kjaergaard. 
 
Finally, opened for appointments only, like the L’Eclaireur gallery a few steps away, the Salon Gucci occupies the former famous Marc Jacobs store opened in 2005, and recognizable by its ivy-covered façade. Initially organized as a pop-up, around its collaboration with Adidas, this salon concept “was imagined as the ultimate luxury destination around a universe as personal as possible, always marked by intimacy and discretion” commented the Italian label. Closed off by opaque curtains, the space has since plunged the entrance to Melrose Place into an unfriendly atmosphere.

In this luxury retail landscape, luxury vintage specialist Uncommon found an empty space in early January 2025. An inveterate antique hunter enthusiast, Sarah Aaronson, formerly based in the Larchmont neighborhood, has taken over a 550-square-foot space, where she displays her very narrow selection of clothes amidst decorative objects. On the racks are dresses by Ann Demeulemeester, Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière and Issey Miyake, each piece featured by a photo from a fashion show. 

Isabel Marant store at 8454 Melrose Place – Alexis Chenu

 
In the premium, contemporary segment, other brands have chosen Melrose Place as the address for their very first boutique. Such is the case of French label Isabel Marant, which opened at Melrose Place in 2012. A building of sublime modern architecture is surrounded by spectacular gardens, filled with statues of French artist Arnold Goron, and organized around a large lounge-library showcasing the women’s collections and a more confidential area dedicated to men.
 
Another architectural gem, the boutique of French brand A.P.C opened in 2014, features ample day-lighting from high windows and a 14-foot-long frameless skylight, as well as a wall with 18 panels wich pivot open to let in the fresh air from a lush courtyard garden. Nearby, designer Rachel Comey‘s first Los Angeles boutique followed in 2016. Surrounded by her team from her New York boutique – creative director Sean Carmody, architect Elizabeth Roberts and interior designer Charles de Lisle – joined by Los Angeles architect Linda Taalman, the designer offered a replica of her Crosby Street boutique with a mix of exposed woods, concrete terrazzo flooring and skylights.

Even more recently, Italian label Forte Forte snapped up a fabulous space on Melrose Place in 2022. Its founders, siblings Giada and Paolo Forte, took over a 1930 building, characterized by two shop windows that open onto the street and framed by a sage green enamelled metal façade.
 

424 store by Guillermo Andrade at 8441 Melrose Place, Los Angeles – Alexis Chenu

 
More surprisingly, streetwear has recently arrived on Melrose Place. Two years after the opening of the Warren Lotas store, a streetwear brand best known for its collaborations with the NBA, 424 made its appearance in the neighborhood in early 2024. Its founder, Guillermo Andrade, whose Paris show in January generated a real buzz, has created a completely innovative space in the basement of a Melrose Place building, recreating a California desert landscape.
 
“Because of Covid, I had to close my store in Fairfax,” explained Andrade. “From 2020 to 2022, I devoted all my time to this project. The soul of Fairfax no longer existed, so I told my new partners: Melrose Place is the future! I wanted to create a place for all the young people who had supported us in Fairfax. And do you know what happened? They all came.”

Initially a UFO in Melrose Place, the store revitalizes the neighborhood with brand launch parties, such as the new vintage of B.A.A, Bel Air Athletics, the brand owned by Will Smith and Ben Priest, or music listening parties, including one organized by singer 070 Shake last December.

Another segment present on Melrose Place, sportswear and athletic wear, is also present in recent years. Malbon Golf, formerly on Fairfax Avenue, has occupied a boutique on Melrose Place for the past two years. Since 2017, the brand founded by Stephen and Erica Malbon has been rejuvenating the classic golfer’s outfit with collections focusing on color and a pop logo with a positive imagery. The lesser-known Set Active brand, with its activewear wardrobe, opened its first boutique in 2022, followed by New York and Bleeker Street a year later.

Malbon Golf at 8478-B Melrose Place, Los Angeles – Alexis Chenu

Jewelry is increasingly making its presence felt at Melrose Place. Among the headliners, New York designer Irene Neuwirth’s boutique presents her celebrity-popular collections in a space with signature furnishings and a private salon where the designer welcomes guests and special events.
 
Other New York jewelry brands have been making inroads in recent years. Among its main players, luxury jewelry brand Maria Tash, famous for its luxury piercings, opened in 2022. Since late 2023, Grown Brilliance, also present in New York, has been showcasing its collections made from lab-grown diamonds. Other jewelry houses complete the picture with Maria Tash, the lab-grown diamonds brand Vrai and Studs, a costume jewelry boutique.

Since last August, Foundrae, the jewelry brand of New York-based designer Beth Hutchens, has joined the ranks of jewelry brands. Superbly displayed, her collections of medallions, necklaces and rings inspired by mysticism and spirituality are revealed to customers. The location also has an in-house workshop where two artisans – a bench jeweler and a hand engraver – can help craft a personal story.

“We see Foundrae jewelry as a path to self-reflection and self-discovery. Every symbol in our lexicon was created as a means of unearthing deeply held values that will help each individual evolve,” said Hutchens.

Ambassade Biologique Recherche at 8461 Melrose Place, Los Angeles – Alexis Chenu

 
In the beauty field, Melrose Place boasts eight specialist establishments and institutes. The Violet Grey salon, which occupies the former offices of architect John Elgin Woolf, distributes high-end beauty products from Dior to La Mer and offers makeup artist services by appointment. Opening in 2022, the Ambassade Biologique Recherche occupies over 800-square-metres of space on Melrose Place, with a hairdressing salon on the first floor and a VIP area with private access via the parking lot. 
 
More complex, the food and restaurant scene saw the closure a few weeks ago of its Caviar Kaspia restaurant. Opened in 2022, the luxury caviar specialist failed to attract its audience in Los Angeles. And even Maor Cohen’s presence in the back room did nothing to help. After a disagreement, the jeweller found a new space on Melrose Avenue at the end of 2024. Cursed, the superb villa on Melrose Place has seen one closure after another in recent years, notably the case of leather goods brand Mansur Gavriel, which for a time shared its space with La Durée.

Also closed in 2023, Moon Juice, a specialist in healthy juices and powders, has been replaced since 2024 by Kreation, another fruit juice and smoothie chain with over a dozen Los Angeles addresses, despite its wood-clad facades decried by locals. Today, Alfred Coffee remains the favorite address of Melrose Place customers and the only restaurant with a terrace on the always-crowded street.

The former Caviar Kaspia restaurant location is looking for a new retailer – Alexis Chenu

A number of openings are likely to be the talk of the town in the coming months, such as the villa housing Caviar Kaspia. The recent closure of luggage and lifestyle brand By Far should also bring further surprises.

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Billionaire Ambani’s Reliance brings Shein back to India after 2020 app ban

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February 2, 2025

Reliance Retail has launched an app in India to sell fashionwear from China’s Shein under a licensing deal, almost five years since Shein’s app was banned in the country after getting caught up in a diplomatic tussle.

Shein

Reliance, owned by billionaire Mukesh Ambani, launched the app on Saturday morning, said a person with direct knowledge of Reliance’s launch plans. The firm did not announce the launch.

Neither parent Reliance Industries nor Shein responded to requests for comment outside of business hours.

The Shein India Fast Fashion app represents a departure from Reliance’s strategy of adding brands to its flagship fashion app Ajio – whose offering includes Superdry and Gap – as it competes with rivals such as Myntra from Walmart’s Flipkart.

Shein, founded in China in 2012 and later headquartered in Singapore, offers a vast selection of low-priced Western clothes. Its app was banned in India in 2020 alongside other Chinese apps such as ByteDance’s TikTok due to data security concerns, after a border dispute soured Indo-Chinese relations.

Last year, India’s government disclosed to parliament that Reliance had entered an agreement with Shein under which Indian manufacturers would supply products under the Shein brand. It did not make any other details public.

“The fashion OG (original) is back,” said a message displayed upon opening the app. Deliveries will initially be limited to a few cities including New Delhi and Mumbai and expanded nationwide soon, it said.

Offerings include dresses priced as low as 350 rupees ($4).

Reliance will pay a licence fee for using Shein’s brand name, said the person with direct knowledge of the matter. There is no equity investment in the partnership, the person said, without elaborating on financial arrangements.

All Shein-branded products sold through the app are designed and made in India, said a second person with direct knowledge of the matter. The clothing will later be made available on Ajio, the person said, without providing a time frame.

Shein aims to list in London in the first half of the year. It ended its attempt to list in the U.S. following objections from lawmakers who questioned China’s requirement for businesses to seek approval to list abroad, Reuters has reported. 

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Germanier: Desperate Housewives Swiss fantasy

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February 2, 2025

Last, but very much not least, Kevin Germanier from Switzerland, whose beaded fantasies and recycled magic made for a brilliant show to bring down the curtains on Paris haute couture season.

Germanier – Spring-Summer2025 – Haute Couture – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Inspired by the character Bree Van de Kamp of “Desperate Housewives”, and the idea how she might go slightly crazy if she popped a powerful pill, this was the most far-out collection seen in the four-day Paris season that ended Thursday night. 
 
Presented in a salon overlooking the Seine, just 25 models in a surreally beaded wardrobe many based on second-hand French luxury jackets, blazers and dresses that Kevin revealed he had acquired in vintage stores in LA.  Before sending his embroiderers into overdrive – showering every inch of each outfit in dazzling and glistening beading. Opening with a Swiss flag red-and-white suit, completed with scalloped hem of glistening plastic spikes. Then mashing-up tribal colors, Rio carnival and flamenco crochets into the ultimate in sustainable chic.

“I am Swiss. And I was raised to be perfect. Just like Bree Van de Kamp in ‘Desperate Housewives’. I am the busy Bree of fashion, or maybe I should say ‘bead’, as there is so much beading in my collections!” joked Kevin post-show.

Germanier – Spring-Summer2025 – Haute Couture – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

“Anyway, I imagined if Bree had taken a pill and suddenly went a little crazy and colorful. That’s what I wanted on the runway,” chuckled Germanier, who was so emotional after taking his bow he needed three minutes to gather his breathe to talk.
 
In a co-ed show, the guys wore beaded and encrusted tunics where roses, urchins and peonies bloomed. Anything and everything thrown together in this very cool moment. Faber & Castell cool – as pencils sprouting from one futurist goddess body stocking.
 
What looked like thigh boots were, in fact, beaded socks that ran a meter up the leg. Though most of the cast wore spike heels encrusted with so much beading they looked like red sea whip or deep-water anemone.
 
Before Kevin took his ovation to a huge cheer, every whoop and clap and whistle deserved.
 
 

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Haute couture in all its forms with Franck Sorbier, Viktor & Rolf, and Gaurav Gupta

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Nicola Mira

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February 2, 2025

Paris Haute Couture Week for the Spring/Summer 2025 collections has showcased sophisticated and highly inventive creations, such as those presented on Thursday by Franck Sorbier, who continues with his amazing artisanal work, Viktor & Rolf, which reinterpreted the codes of haute couture, and Gaurav Gupta, who blended spirituality and a futuristic vibe.

Franck Sorbier, Spring/Summer 2025 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

This season, Franck Sorbier created a collection full of contrasts. Black contrasted with soft hues, structured textures with lightweight ones, and power with finesse. The collection was inspired by the theme of barbarians and ancient Rome. Sorbier’s first silhouettes put the emphasis on materials. They featured dark dresses alternating with shimmering, metallic ones, made using the compression technique developed by Sorbier, in which different materials, such as velvet, taffeta and pleated fabrics, are assembled and stitched together.

The dresses consisted of panels that floated downward, while their tops looked almost like cuirasses. A sinuously shaped dress was made with swathes of bronze-coloured fabric, as if cut out of animal hide. Short A-line dresses with large collars, some adorned with fabric feathers, were reminiscent of the outfits of a Roman legions’ centurions.

They were made in a shiny, textured jacquard fabric, sometimes threaded with metal, sometimes with golden leaves, giving them a luxurious 1970s vibe. “These are young people’s looks, very cocktail party,” said Sorbier, adding that “it’s important for haute couture to have a young allure. It’s also a message for the future. We’re preparing tomorrow today.”

The show ended with ethereal silhouettes featuring pastel-coloured muslin dresses, vaporous and gathered at the top. They represented peace, embodied in young girls holding olive branches, accompanied by the melodious voice of opera singer Catherine Trautmann singing the Pie Jesu aria from Gabriel Fauré’s “Requiem”. As always, Sorbier managed to arouse emotion. He took a clear stand against war, displaying the symbol of peace on the back of his jacket.

Viktor & Rolf, Spring/Summer 2025 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

As it often does, Viktor & Rolf took a tongue-in-cheek approach to haute couture. Designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren focused this time on a single silhouette, which they presented in 24 possible variations. “Beige silk gazar trench coat, white gazar shirt, blue gazar trousers,” recited an off-stage voice as each look walked out, every time introducing a totally different creation.

The trench coat played the starring role, often enveloping the body in voluminous coat-dresses, including sumptuous evening gowns and a majestic cape. In turns, the coats were richly decorated with knots, ruffles, gathers, pleated bands, or overflowed with strips of fabric with frayed hems. Some items featured oversize collars and burgeoning shoulders. Others morphed into a crinkled draped jacket, or a short biker-style top. In some cases, the coats dropped down to the ankles, cinched with a belt below the buttocks, or extended into a long train. In yet another version, the sleeves were tied at the waist in a huge knot, while the coat was reduced to a cloak covering just the thighs at the back of the trousers. One of Viktor & Rolf’s trench coats even turned into a dress for a doll attached to the model’s waist.

The label played the same magician’s tricks with the white shirt, turning into a dress, and featuring it in all possible shapes and puffed-up volumes. And with the blue trousers, transformed as needed into assorted shorts, gathered knickers, and of course into a skirt. The approach was reminiscent of a previous collection, that of Spring/Summer 2024, in which the designer duo presented four different versions of each wardrobe staple, each cut in different shapes.

Gaurav Gupta, Spring/Summer 2025 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Gaurav Gupta presented a high-impact collection emphasising striking, sculptural silhouettes. His models looked like goddesses or warriors from distant galaxies, clad in slinky black sheath dresses with oversized collars, their faces and heads adorned with masks and futuristic jewellery.

Garments in black velvet or silk were accented by gold and midnight blue metallic elements: gleaming brooches, serpents snaking across the chest, belts, metal bras, plastrons, and armour-like corsets. Ribbons floated airily around a top. Cascades of crystals beaded long dresses. Some silhouettes’ organic shapes were reminiscent of Iris van Herpen.

The collection was entitled “Across the Flame”, and was conceived as a celebration of resilience. The Indian designer, who studied at Central Saint Martins in London, is celebrating his label’s 20th anniversary this year. He was the victim of a fire which seriously injured him and his partner Navkirat Sodhi. The latter opened the show treading barefoot on the runway, wearing a tulle veil that barely hid his scars, and reciting a poem about his healing journey. Two models laced together into a single orange draped sari symbolised resilience in the collection.

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