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Vacheron Constantin has made the world’s most complicated wristwatch

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Bloomberg

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April 1, 2025

Vacheron Constantin, the oldest continually operating Swiss watch brand, just revealed the world’s most complicated wristwatch. The Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication is a double-sided technological feat that took eight years of research and development.

Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – Courtesy

It boasts a record-setting 41 complications, including five astronomical functions—one of which is the first of its kind. And it was all developed, engineered, and assembled by a single master watchmaker.

Vacheron Constantin has filed 13 patent applications for this watch, whose new movement, Caliber 3655, consists of a mind-boggling 1,521 hand-assembled, hand-finished components. In fact, just the assembly of the movement itself (the engine of the watch) took almost a year to complete. In addition to the five astronomical complications that have never been combined in a wristwatch before, it also features a specially-conceived minute repeater with Westminster chime (which sounds the time on demand using four hammers and four gongs in different tones), for which seven of the 13 patents were filed.

Crafted in 18-karat white gold, the round timepiece is remarkably wearable at 45 millimeters in diameter and 14.99 mm in thickness. In fact, the main directive to the watchmaker (Vacheron Constantin won’t divulge his name) from brand executives was to “create something extraordinary but in a compact wristwatch,” says Christian Selmoni, Vacheron Constantin’s style and heritage director. The movement itself measures 36mm in diameter and just under 11mm in thickness. As such, the watch is hailed by the brand as a masterpiece in the art of miniaturization.

“To fit so many complications and components inside is a fantastic feat,” says Selmoni. Putting 41 complications into a timepiece “without rethinking the entire structure would mean a pretty big, pretty thick watch. Making it as compact as possible was a huge driver for innovation.”

So, what exactly can you do with this watch?Well, imagine tracking the tides, the position of the sun and the moon throughout the day, and even having the ability to find a particular star at night, all on the wrist. There’s also a Gregorian perpetual calendar, three lunar indications, including an astronomical moon phase indicator with the age of the moon displayed, a tourbillon escapement (to compensate for errors in timekeeping caused by the effects of gravity when the watch is in certain positions on the wrist) and a 24-hour second time zone and world time indications.

The technologically advanced movement’s unique architecture allows for three ways of telling time: civil (the 24-hour day), sidereal (the actual time—23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds—it takes for the Earth to fully rotate on its axis while revolving around the sun), and solar, or tropical, time (the time it takes for the sun to return to a certain position). All of these times vary throughout the year. The differential is called the equation of time, which is also displayed on the watch.

There are also five highly specialized astronomical complications (among the 14 astronomical complications on the watch) with three patents pending that offer information about the path of the sun. One innovation is a world-first: a celestial sky chart that lets the wearer locate when a specific star or constellation will appear in the night sky. This temporal tracker is linked in the mechanism to the watch’s split-seconds chronograph (that allows for timing multiple events with different end times) and the subject of one of the patent applications.

Another patent is for what the brand is calling the “plug and play” system, which was years in the development process. While not counted as one of the 41 complications, it’s an ingenious development designed to simplify the servicing of the watch.

“This system at the heart of the movement was created so that when the owner has to service the timepiece, the watchmaker doesn’t have to remove multiple hands or dials or complications. It is a sort of module that can be unplugged,” says Selmoni. “It was designed to save days and days of work in servicing.”

According to Selmoni, one of the fantastic aspects of this world’s most complicated wristwatch is the functions’ readability. “Our watchmaker, who is also an engineer, designed every dial, every indication so that it would be very easy to read. This is absolutely not easy to do. He had to reinvent the layout of the functions, create a new camsystem and even design a new case to fit the movement the way he envisioned.”

Of course, Vacheron Constantin, 270 years old this year, is no stranger to the world of record-setting complicated watches. Just last year it unveiled the Berkley Grand Complication double-sided pocket watch with 63 complications. It has also created multiple highly complexwristwatches in recent years, such as the Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 in 2017 with 23 complications and the Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chrono Tempo from 2020 with 24 complications. Each of those watches measured 50mm in diameter and 20mm or more in thickness.

The Les Cabinotiers Solaria, though, breaks not only Vacheron Constantin’s records, but the records of other top brands, as well. The watch is a unique piece, though Selmoni says he hopes that another rendition or two might be made in a different case material or with different dial colors. And the price? The Swiss manufacturer isn’t disclosing that. Previous highly complicated wristwatches from Vacheron Constantin often carried price tags of upwards of $2 million, and those had way fewer complications and patents filed.



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END. plans packed year of events for 20th anniversary

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END. promised it would be going big on its 20th anniversary celebrations and judging by the fashion retailer’s itinerary of events it’s actually huge.

With three events already under its belt in the January-March period, there are over 20 in the pipeline for the rest of the year involving a programme of curated events, pop-ups, activations, collaborations and partnerships “crafted hand-in-hand with brand partners who have journeyed with END. over the last 20 years”.

Participants include a host of big brands including A Bathing Ape, Adidas, Aries, CP Company, Crocs, Needles, Puma, Salomon, Stone Island, Umbro, Universal Works, Y-3, “and many more”.

It’s all in recognition of a brand that has grown from an independent in Newcastle to an international name with flagship locations in Newcastle, Glasgow, Manchester, London, and Milan, “defining its position as a trailblazer bridging the gap between luxury and streetwear, balancing exclusivity with accessibility with its signature curation of the world’s biggest brands to the most sought-after emerging labels all under one roof”.

The 20th anniversary will also honour the brand’s North East roots and the best of British subculture “focusing on narratives deeply connected to the retailer’s heritage, customers and cultural influences, touching on nostalgic themes from the coast to the corner shop and nightlife to the classic British pub”.

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Coats Group announces ‘strategic exit from US Yarns’

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Global threads manufacturing giant Coats Group is quitting its US Yarns business, resulting the closure of its Performance Materials (PM) facility based in Kings Mountain, North Carolina. 

It comes after a strategic review of the wider Americas yarns business that has already resulted in the closure of the Toluca, Mexico facility in December. The review, which started in Q4 2024, concludes that the Americas Yarns business doesn’t fit with Coats’ future strategy, noting the exit from this non-core operation “will result in a positive annualised impact to both the PM and Group adjusted EBIT margins”. 

The exit process is expected to complete in Q2 and Coats said it anticipates to generate a modest cash inflow, after closure costs, that will “allow management to focus on driving forward and growing other parts of the group’s attractive portfolio.

In 2024, revenues and EBIT for US Yarns was $68 million and $3 million, respectively.

Last month, Coats delivered a trading statement that highlighted “strong delivery, exciting medium-term targets with compounding cash and earnings growth”.

While the business reported a string of positives for the year ended 31 December (total revenues up 8% to $1.5 billion; apparel and footwear revenues up 13%; EBIT up 16%), it also noted that the PM business continued to drag across all North America end markets while there was also structural softness in North American Yarns.

The writing was perhaps on the wall for the future of its US PM ops in a statement that included that its Americas manufacturing footprint had been “right-sized” in Q4 with the closure of the Toluca site “to align to structural softness in North American Yarns [that will] drive immediate margin improvement”.

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Poland’s top fashion retailer LPP aims to double revenue by 2027

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Reuters

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April 3, 2025

Poland’s biggest fashion retailer aims to double its revenue to 40 billion zlotys ($10.56 billion) by 2027, driven by the rapid expansion of budget brand Sinsay and its omnichannel strategy, it said on Thursday.

Reuters

“In three years we assume the company will be twice as big,” CEO Marek Piechocki said during a press conference.

Under LPP‘s new three year strategy through 2027, Sinsay is set to account for 75% of the group’s total sales, it said.

The Gdansk-based retailer aims to expand its store network to around 7,500 outlets by the end of 2027, with Sinsay stores making up around 6,000 of those, and to increase e-commerce sales to 10 billion zlotys in the same period.

“As in previous years, the company intends to consistently pursue its policy of sharing the profit generated with its shareholders,” LPP said, indicating plans to maintain its dividend payouts.
The management recommended a dividend of 660 zlotys per share to be paid for the 2024 financial year.

The company also aims to double its core earnings (EBITDA) by 2027, compared to last year’s 3.67 billion zlotys, while keeping its debt levels safe, it said.

LPP’s revenue rose by 20% to 20.19 billion zlotys in 2024.

 

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