UK fashion manufacturers began 2025 against a backdrop of “shaky” demand, a new report shows, with it saying that sales and purchasing dipped and lead times started to creep up.
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That said, some of the bad news comes from the fact that the third quarter of 2024 was a particularly strong period so any quarter-on-quarter comparison will look weak. But the current performance, while nearer ‘normal’ is still weaker than usual.
And recent American announcements about import tariffs are only likely to pile on more pressure and create more uncertainty, potentially denting manufacturing activity. Whether that dent is catastrophic or not remains to be seen, however.
Unleashed, an inventory management and software specialist, said that its figures show small and mid-sized firms saw their average sales revenue drop by a third in the final quarter of last year, from nearly £524,000 in Q3 to £352,000. And the number of purchase orders (POs) placed also fell by half from 790 to 399, while lead times were slightly up – from 23 days to 25 compared to Q3.
The research also shows that sales revenues were down by almost 3% compared to the same period last year, and POs by over 8%.
The company works across multiple industries but looking specifically at clothing and fashion it said that while profitability/return on investment improved in Q4 both year on year (YoY) and quarter on quarter (QoQ), sales revenue was down against both comparison periods. That almost 3% YoY decline referred to above looked tame compared to the nearly 33% QoQ plunge. Meanwhile POs declining by the aforementioned more-than-8% YoY also seemed relatively stable compared to almost a massive 50% QoQ drop.
That said, while lead times expanded, as mentioned, from 23 days to 25 days QoQ, they were down from 38 days in Q4 2024.
As we said, Unleashed works across industries and has data for 12 different industrial sectors. It said that clothing and fashion wasn’t the hardest hit with suppliers in the energy and chemicals market seeing an even bigger decline.
“Low consumer confidence and newly-volatile international trading conditions seem to be taking their toll on manufacturers across almost every category we looked at – which made it a tough start to the year for many businesses,” it explained.
But it added: “While many will be rightly concerned about this drop-off, it’s worth bearing in mind that Q3 2024 was a bumper quarter, when we saw both sales revenue and POs surge. That suggests performance is returning to more normal levels, albeit a little more subdued than we’d all like to see.”
Bags label Mi Bolsa London is to open a flagship store at Westfield London in June, marking a “significant milestone” for the Spanish/British-influenced luxury leather brand.
Mi Bolsa (which translates to ‘my bag’) was established in London in 2020 “inspired by the vibrant Spanish style, timeless London elegance, and enhanced by extraordinary craftsmanship… offering highquality handbags at an accessible price point”.
The flagship store aims to provide “an immersive shopping experience, allowing customers to explore its full range of stylish and versatile designs firsthand”.
Beyond being a retail space, the brand’sphilosophy (‘be real, be creative, and be unique’) is achieved by integrating art and cultureinto the shopping experience.
Each season, the store will feature a unique artistic theme, “celebrating the fusion of creativity and craftsmanship”.
The inaugural theme – ‘The Perfect and Imperfect Ones’ –will be showcased through a curated window display “featuring an imperfect display table as part of a larger artistic installation”.
Future themes will include ‘East and West’, a collaborative exhibition between the sibling co–founder’s artist father and a local British artist.
In addition to its signature collection of handbags, including top-handle bags, totes, crossbody bags, and shoulder bags, the new store will also introduce an exclusive bespoke service.
Transforming the retail space into an “immersive atelier”,customers will have the opportunity to engage in the creative process, “designing and personalising unique pieces that reflect their individual style”.
Initially catering to the UK market, Mi Bolsa London “has rapidly expanded internationally” in the United States, Australia, Hong Kong, and Malaysia and is about to launching in China in May at Matro Suzhou, within the British Pavilion.
Domestically, the flagship at Westfield London “marks the beginning of a new chapter, with plans to open additional locations across London in the coming year”, it added.
In the past, investment dressing broadly referred to pieces that would live in one’s wardrobe for years, even decades, due to their classic and versatile nature. Today, investment dressing refers to how well your purchase will retain and regain its initial cost when resold.
Popular vintage bag models, according to Vestiaire Collective – Courtesy
Vestiaire Collective, one of the most prominent pre-loved fashion sites, aims to guide its customers on both the selling and buying end. The Paris-based company hosted a panel discussion at the recently opened LuisaViaRoma store in Noho, New York, as the Italian retailer offers a curated selection of pre-loved items on Vestiaire Collective and in its stores.
Entitled “The Future of Luxury Resale: Trends, Investment Pieces & Brand Power”, the chat was moderated by Rahul Malik, chief growth officer of Business of Fashion, and featured Samina Virk, North America CEO of Vestiaire Collective; Barbara Torasso, US deputy COO of LuisaViaRoma aka LVR; and celebrity stylist Kate Young. FashionNetwork.com attended to learn just what brands are killing it in luxury resale.
The top 10 designer brands, according to Vestiaire Collective’s latest report – Courtesy
Virk kicked things off by explaining Vestiaire’s Value Ranking (VVR) system, which scores brands and names them best categorically. The report highlights that it’s not just the usual suspects like Chanel, Hermès, and Louis Vuitton. For example, on the top ten designer brands, Moncler, The Row, and Brunello Cucinelli came in first, second, and third place, respectively, while Golden Goose, Coach, and Etro hold those positions for best premium brands. Other categories include insider cool brands, forever pieces, exceptional finds, unicorns, vintage and trending styles.
“We looked at price accessibility, desirability—which we’re able to do because we can look at how many people have liked brands, products, page views, and more that assess engagement—and long-term worth and investment for resell,” Virk said of the new report findings.
She added that the cyclical nature of fashion and trends such as Y2K and quiet luxury also come into play. The report could be to clothes what the Kelley Blue Book is to cars or Apple‘s valuation of trade-ins for an iPhone. Vestiaire Collective plans to release reports seasonally, with the next one slated for fall 2025.
The affordable classics list, according to Vestiaire Collective – Courtesy
“We started working together three years ago with an exclusively online partnership where LVR clients can offer items for resale and receive a store credit equal to the valuation of the garment plus a 15 percent discount. Sustainability is important to LVR, and we want to support circularity,” Torasso said, adding, “When LuisaViaRoma opened the store in New York, we decided to have a section dedicated to certified vintage through Vestiaire Collective. Our buyers work with their servicing team, and every three, two, or three months, they choose different items in line with the trends of the moment.”
As an example, Phoebe Philo-era Celine tote bags were on display. Torasso stressed that having her vintage styles and newer designs on offer aids in the customer’s journey with storytelling.
“We drive them through fashion history and know that every trend is coming back. So, it’s about finding iconic pieces and a platform like Vestiaire Collective with such beautiful pieces that allows us to pick the best and offer our customers,” Torasso continued.
Exceptional finds list, according to Vestiaire Collective – Courtesy
Stylist Kate Young, who formerly worked at Vogue, feels scarcity drives some folks to seek resale buys and that people who incorporate pre-loved items have the best style.
“It’s hard to get the really coveted things if you don’t act quickly. So, you think, ‘I wanted that bag, but it’s gone, so what else would work? There’s a sentiment among traditional fashion editors of like, ‘well, I have the OG one.'”
She notes that clients are interested in vintage and sustainability. “It’s a misperception that they buy all their clothes; they wear a lot of borrowed samples. It feels more eco-friendly and now more than ever my clients are interested in it. Scarlett Johansson wore vintage to the Oscars. We got these 90s gowns in, and I was amazed at the quality. You don’t see that these days,” Young continued of one virtue of circularity.
More exceptional finds, according to Vestiaire Collective – Courtesy
“Vintage is one of our strongest differentiators at Vestiaire. We are an app and a community of buyers and sellers providing global access to amazing vintage, current, and past seasons. Vintage has seen a big increase recently and sells 30% faster than other seasons. Our vintage sales have increased by over 80% in the last few years. And every quarter, we’re seeing an increase in search, which shows that customers are demanding it more,” Virke added, noting that beyond affordability, clients are embracing an investment mindset for reselling resale merchandise.
Good investment pieces can be predicted by the demand for certain designers, which spikes when they change fashion houses. Torasso hinted that queries for Demna’s work for Vetements and Balenciaga are increasing, with Virk confirming that searches go up each time a new designer appointment is made.
Stocking and scaling pre-loved merchandise have been some of Vestiaire Collective’s most significant challenges, as well as combatting trust issues due to other platforms selling unauthenticated merchandise. Online closet access and AI tools are key to navigating the supply demands and the customer journey, according to Virk.
More exceptional finds, according to Vestiaire Collective – Courtesy
As the panel wrapped, the discussion inevitably led to the topic du jour: tariffs. One big question is how or if resale goods are subject to the same rules. Torasso laid an interesting spin on how the new rules may affect their customers.
“A portion of shoppers aren’t affected by price increases, so they will continue to shop. The portion that will be affected is the middle luxury shoppers. We know that 80% of shoppers shop on sale, not full price. This can only worsen. The curation is going to be much more important, so less inventory. We don’t need gigantic inventories that get unsold and then sold with a sale, creating waste in the world. The tariffs are going to drive efficiency for sure.”
YSL Beauty has unveiled a major fragrance initiative with the Kering-owned company relaunching Le Vestiaire des Parfums — (“translating the essence of the late, great Monsieur Saint Laurent’s iconic fashion designs into an exclusive Haute Parfumerie collection”) and a new hero scent being added to the line-up.
Having just launched, the star of the show is Muse, subtitled Inspiring Ink, which blends “enigmatic ink notes with soft iris and sensual vanilla”.
The name comes from the designer’s famous group of muses, the “artists, models, and loved ones” who “embodied his style and spirit. Their unique energy fuelled his designs, liberating silhouettes and redefining beauty. They exuded effortless sophistication and a confidence that defied convention, embracing androgyny and bold choices”.
And the ink part comes as he “captured their essence in countless ink sketches” so “this ink is the heart of Muse”.
Principal Perfumer Marie Salamagne has blended woody ink notes with soft, powdery iris and sensual Bourbon vanilla, creating a “skin scent that explodes— a fragrant tattoo leaving an distinctive and memorable impression as Monsieur Saint Laurent’s captivating muses”.
The bottles holding the luxury scents are sleek and sharp, from the “architectural purity of its angled cut to the luxurious reflections on the glass, it is the epitome of the YSL style”. The cap and textured label feature the grain de poudre for which the fashion label is known in Saint Laurent’s favourite colour, black.