Turnbull & Asser has appointed the highly experienced Italian designer Roberto Menichetti to be its new creative director. In his new role, Menichetti will oversee all of the label’s creative direction including bespoke shirting, tailoring, outerwear, and accessories, the 140-year-old British shirtmaker and outfitter said in a release.
Designer Roberto Menichetti in the workshop – Turnbull & Asser
The appointment marks a return to London for Menichetti some two decades after he departed Burberry, where he played a dynamic role in reviving that the UK’s largest luxury label.
“Roberto’s appointment reflects our ambition to bring fresh energy to our wardrobe while remaining true to the craftsmanship that has defined Turnbull & Asser for over a century. His proven ability to modernise heritage houses while respecting their DNA makes him the perfect partner as we look to the future. That future continues to be shaped by the skill of our artisans in London and Gloucester and by our enduring belief in ‘Made in England’. We are confident that Roberto’s international experience and proven creative leadership will ensure the continued success and growth of our house,” said James Fayed, chairman of Turnbull & Asser, in a release.
The business, which counts King Charles among its customers, has not made a profit in the past nine years. Owned by Ali Fayed for almost 40 years, it is now managed by his son James. In its most recent financial year, Turnbull & Asser made a pre-tax loss of £1.37 million, as annual revenues edged lower to £9.3 million. The company boasts a famous flagship store in Mayfair, and e-tailing business, and distribution across US department stores.
Born in the US but raised in Italy, Menichetti first gained attention when designing the menswear collection in an austere, minimalist style for Jil Sander. While with the German company, he was also credited with developing the first co-branding between high fashion and sportswear in a linkup with Puma.
The Menichetti family are highly experienced apparel manufacturers based in Gubbio, Tuscany, and have produced collections for such brands as Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, and Marzotto.
Menichetti joined Burberry in 1998 blending English heritage, Winsor elegance, and rugged functionality with considerable success. He also launched Prorsum, Burberry’s ready-to-wear line, helping to double annual sales over his five-year tenure to £675 million. In 2000, Anna Wintour presented Menichetti with the honour of Designer of The Year from The Fashion Group International.
Menichetti was also creative director of Celine for two seasons, slotting in between the Michael Kors and Phoebe Philo eras at the key French marque within LVMH Group. Subsequently, he held consultative design roles for brands such as Cerruti, Brema, and Chinese label JH 1912.
“Turnbull & Asser represents more than a brand; it is a living expression of British style and elegance, carefully built over generations. It is remarkable that the house has preserved its identity so faithfully and is untouched by passing trends, carrying it forward to the present day with care and dedication under James and his family. To be entrusted with its creative future is both an honour and a responsibility. My philosophy has always been to seek the essence of form- clarity, proportion and timelessness- rather than the noise of passing trends,” said Menichetti, who in recent years has divided his time between his art studio in Los Angeles, raising his son in California, and his atelier in Gubbio.
