Businesses around the globe on Thursday faced up to a future of higher prices, trade turmoil and reduced access to the world’s largest market after U.S. President Donald Trump confirmed their worst fears by instituting broad tariffs worldwide.
Reuters
Trump ramped up his trade war with tariff rates from 10% to nearly 50%. He says the levies will bring jobs back to the United States – but company executives were focused on possibly raising prices, reducing shipments, or cutting back investment activity outright.
“The reality is stark: these tariffs will push prices higher on thousands of everyday goods – from phones to food – and that will fuel inflation at a time when it is already uncomfortably persistent,” said Nigel Green, CEO of global financial advisory deVere Group.
Shipping companies, one of the main conduits of global trade, were among the first to sound the alarm on Thursday while many other business leaders kept a low profile as they pondered the new reality.
“The tariff plan announced by the U.S. administration was significant, and in its current form, it clearly isn’t good news for (the) global economy, stability and trade,” Maersk, the world’s second-largest container shipping firm, said.
“It is still too early to say with any confidence how this will ultimately unfold,” the Danish company added.
German container shipping firm Hapag-Lloyd also said that tariffs could affect demand, cargo flows and costs. The world’s fifth biggest container liner said it could be forced to adjust its service network in response.
Those fears were echoed by Dirk Jandura, president of Germany’s BGA association, representing importers and exporters.
“We will have to translate the tariffs into price increases, and in many cases that means a drop in sales,” he said.
Trump sees tariffs as a way of protecting the U.S. economy from unfair global competition and a bargaining chip for better terms of trade.
The most common method of dealing with tariffs is to raise prices, passing along the cost to customers as far as possible. Other companies may try to diversify supply chains, but Trump’s additional 34% tariff on China was accompanied by 46% and 49% tariffs on Vietnam and Cambodia, respectively – all Asian countries where companies had been shifting output.
Shares in Western sportswear brands Nike, Adidas and Puma all dropped sharply on Thursday as Vietnam, Indonesia, and China are leading markets for them to source products.
Shares in Apple fell 7% in Frankfurt, reflecting concerns over the iPhone maker’s big manufacturing base in China.
In the U.S., retailers Target and Best Buy have said they will have to raise prices, but their margins are more likely to be squeezed, and Target and Walmart have been trying to negotiate with Chinese suppliers already dealing with a slowed economy.
U.S. drinkers will pay more for cocktails, champagne and foreign beers, brands will disappear from bar menus and jobs will be lost on both sides of the Atlantic, drinks industry bodies said.
Some European companies that primarily serve higher-income consumers were planning to raise prices even before confirmation of the 20% tariffs on European Union imports.
Italy’s Illy Caffe and Ferrari have both said they will lift prices, calculating premium coffee drinkers and sports car buyers will be able to absorb the extra cost.
Lavazza, another Italian coffee maker, said it could accelerate plans to expand its plant in the U.S., but the company must first assess the impact of potential tariffs on green beans from Brazil. Giovanna Ceolini, head of Confindustria Accessori Moda, which represents Italian companies in the footwear, leather, fur and tannery industry, said that U.S. tariffs come when companies are already struggling with increased costs.
“We are afraid that for our companies there will be a slowdown (in demand). It will depend on whether Americans are willing to pay a little more (for our goods),” she said. Jefferies analysts anticipate a 6% increase in U.S. luxury prices as companies seek to protect margins.
The White House says tariffs will encourage more onshoring, similar to the revamped USMCA trade deal Trump signed during his first term that encouraged manufacturing activity to shift from China to Mexico or Canada.
German fan and motor maker ebm-papst, for example, is deliberating whether to build a third production plant or expand its existing site in Tennessee.
CEO Klaus Geissdoerfer said he had initially thought of a new plant in Mexico, but “some are saying, ‘maybe it’s better to go to the USA after all because we’ll have to pay customs duty in Mexico’.” The most severe risk, according to executives interviewed by Reuters, is that businesses simply stop investing.
Beauty subscription service Ipsy unveiled on Tuesday its May Icon Box curator selecting the founders of clothing brand Favorite Daughter Erin and Sara Foster.
Ipsy taps Erin and Sara Foster for May Icon Box. – Ipsy
The May Icon Box is a quarterly drop packed with eight beauty essentials. The sister duo curated the box with busy schedules and beauty minimalists in mind, and includes a lineup of skincare and makeup from brands like Kosas, Drunk Elephant, First Aid Beauty, and Dermalogica.
“We’re all about keeping beauty simple, effective, and actually enjoyable,” said Erin. “This Icon Box takes the guesswork out of your routine so you can look great without having to spend hours searching for the right product.”
Sara added, “We wanted this collection to feel like your beauty shortcut with products that deliver results without the extra effort. Whether you’re rushing out the door or just want to keep things effortless, this Icon Box has you covered.”
In addition to the beauty drop, the sisters are also launching the Favorite Daughter Grecian Night and Italian Summers Fragrance Duo, priced at just $35 exclusively on Ipsy Shop for a limited time.
“Fragrance can be a very personal choice,” said Erin. “It has the power to bring back memories, set a mood, or just make you feel like the best version of yourself, but that can also vary from day to day. Grecian Night has notes of jasmine and tuberose, which is my favorite fragrance, while Italian Summers, which is formulated with freesia and vanilla, is typically Sara’s go-to – but there will be days we’ll wanna swap.”
Kristy Westrup, chief merchandising officer at Ipsy, said she wanted to collaborate with the duo for their authentic approach to beauty: “Erin and Sara have a refreshingly authentic approach to beauty, which we wanted to bring to our Icon Box for May. This Icon Box is a true reflection of that philosophy, featuring a lineup of premium products that simplify beauty without sacrificing performance. We know our members will love the lineup in this box, and we’re thrilled to bring this collaboration to life.”
Driven by 9% revenue growth in fiscal 2024 to €23.5 million, Italian footwear and ready-to-wear label Velasca, founded in 2013 by Enrico Casati and Jacopo Sebastio, is stepping up the pace of its retail expansion. Velasca’s plan is to open 37 new stores by 2028, in Europe and beyond.
Jacopo Sebastio (left) and Enrico Casati
The label already operates stores in Milan, Rome, Turin, Bologna, Florence, Brescia, Naples, Palermo, Verona, Padua, as well as in Paris and London. A few weeks ago, it opened its first bottega (artisanal shop) in Copenhagen, and another in New York, on Madison Avenue.
By April, Velasca will grow its monobrand fleet to 30 addresses, by opening two more stores in Paris, and by entering the German market with a first store in Munich. Outside Italy, Velasca is mulling a second opening in London, while the opening of a store in Forte dei Marmi, Italy, is scheduled in two weeks.
The Velasca ‘bottega’ in Verona
“International expansion and the consolidation of our presence in Italy are key elements in our overall growth strategy, which is based on an omni-channel model featuring a careful balance between physical and digital retail. Thanks to the rapid growth of our online channels, we’re able to identify high-potential markets very early on, so that we can make quick decisions in terms of new retail openings,” said Sebastio and Casati. “Our goal is to stay close to our community by offering a quality experience tailored to their needs, immersing them in Velasca’s world and values,” they added.
Thanks to these new projects, Velasca is targeting revenue of €27.5 million for fiscal 2025.
Kering Beauty has appointed former Estée Lauder executive Nathalie Berger-Duquene to the post of CEO of Creed, the Franco-English fragrance brand acquired by the French luxury group in 2023. Berger-Duquene will take office on May 6, succeeding Sarah Rotheram, who left Kering in October 2024.
Nathalie Berger-Duquene – Kering Beauté
Berger-Duquene has been active in the beauty industry for more than 25 years, developing a number of perfume brands. After starting her career at LVMH-owned Guerlain, she joined the L’Oréal group in 2005, where she held various senior positions, including head of international make-up marketing at Lancôme, and managing director for the Armani and designer brands division.
In 2019, she joined US cosmetics group Estée Lauder as managing director EMEA for Tom Ford Beauty and Kilian Paris. She was then appointed senior vice-president of Tom Ford Beauty, overseeing marketing, communication and the online business worldwide. In 2022, Berger-Duquene was named global general manager of Balmain Beauty, still part of Estée Lauder.
At Kering Beauty, the luxury giant’s division created in early 2023 to accelerate the cosmetics market growth of the Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen and Pomellato labels, Berger-Duquene will report to Raffaella Cornaggia, who oversees the division. She has also joined Kering Beauty’s executive committee, and will be based in London.
The Creed brand was founded in 1760 by James Henry Creed. In 2023, it recorded revenue of approximately €250 million, and is sold via some 40 monobrand stores and 1,400 multibrand retailers.
At the end of June 2023, Kering signed an agreement to buy a 100% stake in Creed. The value of the operation was not disclosed, but in July the Financial Times mentioned the sum of €3.5 billion.
In 2024, Kering generated revenue of €17.19 billion. The Kering Eyewear & Corporate division, which now includes Kering Beauty, reported revenue of €1.9 billion, up 24%.