After a short interlude of pushing “body inclusivity” and plus-sized models to the fore, the fashion industry has returned to promoting thinness as a beauty ideal.
Data published this week from Vogue Business, based on catwalk shows in the most recent Spring/Summer 2026 Fashion Weeks, corroborated what models with regular or larger body sizes have been reporting: their work is drying up.
Of the 9,038 looks analysed in New York, London, Milan and Paris, 97.1 percent featured models judged to be very small (US 0-4, UK 4-8 or 32-36 in France), according to data from Vogue Business in its size inclusivity report.
Regular-sized models represented only 2.0 percent of the body types seen, compared to just 0.9 percent for “plus-size” models (US 14+, UK 18+, France 44+), the report showed.
“There are fewer and fewer plus-size models on the runways,” Aude Perceval, a booker at Plus Agency, a pioneer in plus-size modeling in France, told AFP.
The trend was particularly pronounced in Paris, she added.
This is despite many designers adopting looks that naturally create curvy silhouettes, such as corsets.
In some cases, models have been sent out with padding around their hips to create the hourglass shape.
“Since 2022, there’s been a real regression, both in the frequency of contracts and in fees,” model Doralyse Brumain, 31, who wears a French 40-42, told AFP.
The “body positive” movement, born in the 2010s, was based on the idea of promoting acceptance of different body types and recognising the damage done by creating a beauty ideal of thinness that was both unhealthy and beyond the reach of most women.
In the same way that fur and flashy fashion is making a comeback, so is the aesthetic of extreme thinness that was called “heroin chic” in the 1990s when popularised by supermodels such as Kate Moss.
“There’s this false idea that being thin means being chic, being rich,” said French model casting director Esther Boiteux to AFP.
The wide availability of weight-loss drugs such as Ozempic — used to suppress appetite — has also been linked to the return of thinness.
The diabetes treatment “has something to do with it because we’re seeing a lot of celebrities who are using it”, British Vogue editor Chioma Nnadi said last November.
“I think there’s this shift in the culture around how we think about our bodies and how we address our bodies,” she told the BBC.
Clothes for fashion shows are also typically designed and manufactured in a single size — that of “standard” thin models — and making clothes for regular or larger models requires forethought and extra time to adapt them.
Ekaterina Ozhiganova, a Russian-born model and founder of the Model Law association, which advocates for model rights, says that consumers are in favour of seeing models in different sizes.
“But for it to become truly sustainable, there would need to be a profound change in production,” she told AFP, adding that the industry continued to sell “an unattainable ideal”.
French designer Jeanne Friot believes fashion runways should instead be a place where everyone can envision themselves.
“The point of a fashion show is to showcase something different from the fashion I grew up with, very thin and very standardized. I want to see (larger) sizes… older people, all ethnicities, all genders,” she told AFP.
For the moment, sighting a regular-sized woman on the catwalk is an increasingly rare occurrence, but the change is not going unnoticed.
“We have to speak out when fashion messes up and establishes a standard it should abandon,” French fashion journalist Sophie Fontanel wrote on Instagram in early October as she watched the Givenchy show during Paris Fashion Week.
Gucci owner Kering and private equity firm Ardian said on Tuesday they had completed a joint venture agreement for a New York property deal valued at $900 million.
Kering’s brands include Saint Laurent, Gucci, and Balenciaga – Reuters
Under the deal concluded earlier this year, Kering is contributing the property at 715-717 Fifth Avenue in New York to a newly created joint venture with Ardian, the companies said in a joint statement. Ardian will hold a 60% stake in this, with Kering retaining 40% and receiving $690 million in net proceeds.
The transaction is part of Kering’s broader strategy to secure control of high-profile retail locations while also raising cash. In January, Kering said it had transferred three of its Paris real estate assets to a new joint venture with Ardian, freeing up 837 million euros in proceeds.
“Like the investment agreement already signed in Paris, this transaction allows us to secure another long term highly prominent retail location for our houses while enhancing our financial flexibility,” said Kering chief operating officer Jean-Marc Duplaix, commenting on the New York Ardian deal.
London’s Selfridges continues to be the pop-up destination of choice in London’s West End (Harrods has that status in Knightsbridge) and one of the world’s best known labels will be there as of January.
Dior
Dior, which already has a strong presence in the London flagship will be unveiling its first pop-up boutique for its new summer 2026 creations inside the in-demand Corner Shop.
That’s important because it will celebrate the launch of Jonathan Anderson’s first collection.
Running from 8 January to 28 February, the unique space will “reveal a playful world like a waking dream”. The company said the summer 2026 menswear collection “breathes a certain spontaneity into the art of dressing, while the womenswear line radiates freshness, with leather goods presented alongside exquisite creations. An exceptional selection that expresses the reinvented essence of Dior”.
Dior is currently inviting customers to book appointments and said it will “extend the experience through a curated selection of exclusive events at the pop-up boutique”.
That includes notebook personalisation with “a nod to Versailles-style gilding, personalised detailing applied by an expert [that] promises to add a truly signature touch”. And there’s also bookmark calligraphy where visitors can add their initials to a bookmark, inspired by the newest Dior Book Tote designs by Anderson.
The news of the pop-up comes in the same week that Dior unveiled its super-sized flagship concept House of Dior Beijing. That five-storey space dwarfs the Selfridges space but underscores the ambitious plans LVMH has for the brand, the huge investment Dior is putting into its global growth and its targeting of key luxury markets.
Lululemon was making headlines last week as its CEO exited but it had more upbeat news on Sunday as Lewis Hamilton made a personal appearance at the Regent Street, London, flagship store to to celebrate the launch of The Lewis Hamilton Edit, a curated 36-piece capsule personally selected by the champion racing driver.
André Maestrini and Lewis Hamilton – Lululemon
Importantly too, joining Hamilton in-store for photos was Lululemon’s new interim co-CEO, André Maestrini, marking his first public appearance in the role and highlighting the company’s focus on innovation, as well as stressing that there’s no vacuum at the top of the company’s leadership tree.
Hamilton became a Lululemon ambassador earlier this year and made an unannounced appearance in the store.
Available exclusively at the Regent Street location and on the brand’s UK webstore, the Edit brings together Hamilton’s favourite menswear and womenswear pieces from the brand’s Winter 2025 collection — “each style chosen for its high performance and elevated aesthetic, all filtered through the distinctive personal style he’s renowned for”.
The appearance may have been unannounced but there were plenty of fans gathered outside to see him in a full look from the Edit as he greeted the crowd, signed autographs, and posed for photos.
The first 100 people in the queue also received Lululemon products signed by Hamilton and he was also helping staff style looks and wrap gifts behind the tills.
Such appearances are hugely important for stores at this time of year as they compete to attract customers.
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