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The Woolmark Company’s Damien Pommeret: ‘It’s up to industries to share their environmental impact data’

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A few weeks before being announced as Jean Paul Gaultier‘s new creative director, Duran Lantink was awarded the Woolmark Prize 2025. The whimsical and talented Dutch designer had applied his expertise and vision of disproportionately swollen volumes to a wool creation. Each year, this event organized by The Woolmark Company – the representative body of the Australian wool industry – rewards contemporary design, with an endowment of 300,000 Australian dollars (around 172,000 euros). It’s also an opportunity to promote the properties of this natural fiber, at the heart of a broader commitment.

In addition to its promotional activities in the premium and luxury fashion sectors, The Woolmark Company is also working to protect an entire industry, which provides a livelihood for many family farms across the continent. This involves applied research projects, such as the recent development of its “denim lab”, as well as a major effort to organize the industry and raise its profile.

In this respect, assessing the CSR impact of the material is a major challenge. Damien Pommeret, the organization’s representative in Western Europe, reviews the initiatives undertaken by The Woolmark Company and its innovation center. In particular, he details its involvement in the ‘Make the Label Count’ initiative, launched in 2021 with other players in the textile sector. As Europe moves forward with the validation of new environmental assessment tools – in particular the PEF (Product Environmental Footprint) and the French method – this approach is taking on strategic weight today.

Damien Pommeret – The Woolmark Company

FashionNetwork.com: After years of consultation, Europe has just validated advances in methodologies for assessing the environmental cost of textiles. However, with certain approaches, the calculation could favor materials derived from the petrochemical industry to the detriment of natural materials. Was this an issue for you?

Damien Pommeret: We started sounding the alarm over three years ago. We took part in the creation of ‘Make the Label Count‘ to defend the advantages of using renewable and biodegradable fibers and to highlight the harmful effects of microplastic pollution. At first, we were pretty much alone, but the cotton and other natural materials sectors realized that there were aligned messages. Above all, there was a realization that we were small in comparison with other lobbies.

FNW: And now?

DP: Natural materials are starting to connect. Initially, brands and supply chains saw this as a pure risk, thinking that the issues were different. The collaborative aspect was complex. Especially as working on the technical details requires a lot of time and dedicated people. But now it’s more concrete. The fact that we created “Make the LabelCount”, which wasn’t linked to a specific material, allows us to get involved. The cotton industry contributes funds. The 64-member coalition is gaining in weight with the authorities, particularly in Europe.

The 'Make the Label Count' coalition has been lobbying since 2021.
The ‘Make the Label Count’ coalition has been lobbying since 2021. – DR

FNW: In concrete terms, what does this mean for an industry like wool, represented by Woolmark?

DP: It already carries weight with the Australian government and the wool industry. To change approaches, we have to share data with the French government. This data had not been consolidated for sharing and gives very detailed information on the Australian wool industry. We had to overcome legal and political fears about sharing it with Ecobalyse. But it’s up to the industries to share their data. Because in reality, the French government will never be able to know the progress made on coffee, avocados or natural textiles when it comes to establishing its results.

FNW: But how important is this sharing of data?

DP: It’s very important. In fact, petroleum-based materials have more data than natural materials, which adds value to the results in assessment systems. Strategic impact assessment tools were created to evaluate products produced by industries using calibrated resources. So it’s not adapted to agriculture and livestock farming, even if we’re trying to adapt it… The difficulty is that there are lots of different types of operation. We have to create the measurement tools and collect the data, which is much more complex. With Woolmark, we invest in these tools and follow technologies developed by start-ups to improve the situation. Because the biggest impact is on the farms. But that’s also where all the potential lies in protecting water resources and biodiversity.

FNW: In concrete terms, has this sharing of information improved the ratings of wool products via Ecobalyse?

DP: Yes, clearly. As they didn’t have any data, they worked with the information they did have: an impact study on sheep in the United States which served as the basis for calculating all wool products. But for textiles, 85% of Merino wool comes from Australia. In Australia, sheep farming is extensive, with 6 to 8 animals per hectare in semi-freedom. So the impact is not at all the same. With our data, this reduced the impact in the final results. The challenge now is to finance regular data collection and to go into more detail. Because this commits the sector to improvement and can be promoted to customers.

FNW:Can this be applied to other natural materials?

DP: Each sector can have its own elements. For example, American cotton has all these data. The key point is that it’s not just a matter of collecting data. It has to commit the industry, breeders, farmers and polyester producers to doing better, and consumers to consuming better. Otherwise, it’s pointless transparency. It’s necessarily a political issue. The aim is not to point the finger at industries and see people lose their jobs. The aim is to have a tool that enables us to optimize, to be more intelligent in manufacturing and consumption.

FNW: Except that, despite the improvement, wool is still not rated as highly as polyester…

DP: Admittedly, even if the result is better, we’re far from having won. For our part, we have to be transparent about the real impact of wool. But then, the criteria will have to include a projection onto a new way of consuming. The life and impact of a product after its manufacture are not the same for a natural product as for those made from petrochemicals. And this is not yet taken into account at European level. It’s a battle that needs to be fought. The other aspect is that we’re going to have to consume less to meet our environmental commitments.

Rating the CSR impact of clothing is becoming a strategic issue for the industry
Rating the CSR impact of clothing is becoming a strategic issue for the industry – DR

FNW: What do you mean by this?

DP: Let’s be clear: natural materials are not the ones that have the least impact, and are often intended for premium products. We’re not going to sell a 50-euro cotton t-shirt to every Indian. Each fiber has its own purpose. The aim is to be able to use fibers and products for their performance at the right level of consumption. While we obviously need to keep fashion affordable, the problem is volume. There’s a difference between accessible fashion and an industry that’s unbridled on environmental and social issues. We’re going to have to find a way of ensuring that Europe’s affluent classes don’t over-consume low-priced products. Which is the case today.

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Italy opens menswear show season with Pitti Uomo, Milan Fashion Week

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Translated by

Nicola Mira

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June 13, 2025

Italy is about to get the menswear show season under way amid widespread uncertainty caused by the complex economic situation. On the agenda, two unmissable events: Pitti Uomo, scheduled on June 17-20 in Florence, and Milan Fashion Week Men, on June 20-24. This season more than ever, these two events dedicated to the 2026 Spring/Summer collections are relying on major international names to energise their programmes, with Issey Miyake and Paul Smith top of the bill.

Dolce & Gabbana (shown here, a look from last winter), Prada and Armani will be the only top Italian labels to show in Milan this season – world.dolcegabbana.com

Pitti Uomo’s 108th edition will showcase nearly 750 exhibitors, 43% of them from outside Italy, compared to 770 in January 2025 and 790 in June 2024, as well as a plethora of international events and initiatives. The stars of the show will include Tommy Hilfiger, returning to Florence after an eight-year absence with a new menswear project, and Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, the guest of honour.
 
Pitti Uomo is looking to generate fresh energy with no less than four guest designers, as opposed to two in January. Italian designer Niccolò Pasqualetti, South Korean label Post Archive Faction (PAF), and Children of Discordance, a Japanese label, will be showing alongside Issey Miyake.

A further spotlight on international design will be provided by the new Code Korea project, set up in partnership with the Korea Creative Content Agency; the presentations by the Scandinavian Manifesto collective, in partnership with Copenhagen’s CIFF trade show; J Quality, a section dedicated to Japanese craftsmanship; China Wave, showcasing the best of contemporary Chinese men’s fashion selected by the Chic trade show and China’s National Garment Association; and finally, a selection of Spanish labels promoted by ICEX. Not to mention the 25 French labels that will exhibit, most of them backed by Promas and French public body DEFI.
 
In its forthcoming summer session, Pitti Uomo will also focus on sport, simultaneously staging Becycle, the cycling industry event first introduced in June 2024. Cycling-related brands great and small will exhibit at Becycle, including Colnago, Passoni, Ashmei and Pas Normal Studios. Becycle will be part of the show’s entirely redesigned ‘I Go Out’ section on contemporary outdoor apparel and equipment.

Paul Smith will be showing in Milan this season
Paul Smith will be showing in Milan this season – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

This season’s edition of Milan Fashion Week Men will be rather low-key, clearly feeling the impact of the global geo-political and economic crisis. It will feature 81 events, including 44 presentations, 17 special events and 15 runway shows, plus five digital shows that will be streamed on the week’s final morning, on Tuesday, June 24. Only three among Italian fashion’s leading names will feature on the Milanese calendar this season: Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani and Prada, while Zegna will be showing in Dubai, and many other labels have opted to present their menswear collections with womenswear at the September fashion week.
 
Some emerging labels that have made their mark on the Milanese fashion landscape in recent years will also give this edition a miss, like Magliano, which is replacing its habitual show with a movie screening, JordanLuca, and Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor. Milan will however rely on four ‘new’ names to freshen up the calendar, starting with British label Paul Smith, which is quitting Paris this season to show at its Milanese showroom on June 21.
 
The other new entries on Milan’s menswear programme are Setchu by Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata, winner of the 2023 LVMH Prize, which will kick off proceedings on Friday, June 20; long-standing Italian label Fiorucci, in the midst of a major relaunch; and Qasimi, the menswear label by Hoor Al Qasimi, originally from the UAE.

Two comebacks worth mentioning are those of Vivienne Westwood, which will stage a presentation, and Spanish designers Miguel Vieira and David Catalán, showing on Monday, June 23. The same day will end with the first runway show by French designer Emma Rowen Rose with her baroque-chic, made-in-Italy label Rowen Rose, which is set to launch a menswear line on this occasion.
 
Before passing the baton to Paris, Milan Fashion Week will be enlivened by a few big parties, including those celebrating Dsquared2’s 30th anniversary and Jacob Cohen’s 40th.

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Champion signs multi-year deal with Irish ‘boxing great’ Katie Taylor

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Global sportswear brand Champion has widened its association with combat sports, signing Irish fighter Katie Taylor to a multi-year deal. The association has been sealed ahead of the bell ringing for her highly anticipated third bout in the series against Amanda Serrano at Madison Square Garden, airing live on Netflix on 11 July. 

The link’s understandable, given Taylor’s “a force in the ring… becoming synonymous with grit, greatness, and unshakable belief and is considered by many to be the greatest female fighter of all-time”, says Champion.

​And there’s another good reason for the association: the second bout in the trilogy drew 74 million viewers globally.

To accompany its support, the brand has lunched a limited-edition ‘KT’ Reverse Weave T-shirt “which pays tribute to her extraordinary career”, as well as a bespoke fight kit and team gear for the Serrano encounter.

The associated apparel line also includes the launch later this year of anext-generation combat sports range… shaped by deep collaboration and insights from Taylor”

Following Champion’s signing in May of UFC Heavyweight Champion Tom Aspinall, the latest collaboration “supercharges Champion’s commitment to the world of combat sports, a space defined by discipline, intensity, and the relentless pursuit of excellence”.

Champion’s association with the sport is long-standing and claims “the invention of the hooded sweatshirt”, as well as “pioneering mesh nylon jerseys for football players… Champion has consistently delivered functional, performance-driven gear rooted in athlete insight. Many of these innovations have transcended sport to become cultural icons”.

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White Stuff to open store in Lyme Regis

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White Stuff’s heading to Lyme Regis, Dorset, for its latest (19 June) opening. Showcasing the womenswear brand’s latest summer collections, the 1,300 sq ft store join’s the seaside town’s high street, creating seven new local jobs.

White Stuff

The brand, which says it offers “unique designs, commitment to sustainable fabrics, and community spirit”, said the latest store continues its UK retail expansion strategy and is the fourth of several planned openings this year.

Previous openings were in Broughton Shopping Park, Dalton Park and Eastbourne last month while the brand also opened a travel-specific store ahead of the summer season at London Gatwick airport.

And to celebrate its 40th year, the British lifestyle label delved into its archive to launch a 17-piece collection called ‘Rewind ’85′. 

Area manager Jacqueline Powley, said: “Located on the historic Jurassic coast, this new location marks an exciting next step.”

White Stuff currently operates 117 stores and 49 concessions (including John Lewis and M&S) across the UK serving 1.3 million omnichannel customers a year. The brand also sells internationally via its website and has 606 wholesale stockists (178 in the UK and Northern Ireland and a further 428 internationally).

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