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The most exciting watches of 2025 had one thing in common

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Bloomberg

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December 29, 2025

Looking back on a long year of trips to Switzerland, tours of manufactures and museums and trade shows, and interviews with watchmakers around the world, I think it’s fair to say 2025 was an excellent year for watches.

LVMH watch brand Gérald Genta – Gérald Genta

There were major debuts, including the Vacheron Constantin clock and automaton that was installed at the Louvre, as well as the totally new Rolex Land-Dweller line that premiered in March. There were innovations such as Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak RD#5, with its thin case, tourbillon, and ultra-easy chronograph pushers, plus Breguet’s magnetic escapement in its avant-garde Expérimentale 1.

Cartier, Bremont, Maen, Fears, and others kick-started a trend of funky jumping-hour watches I expect we’ll see continue for some time. Urban Jürgensen debuted and immediately inflamed the passion of high-net-worth collectors with its movements by Kari Voutilainen and its prices in the hundreds of thousands of dollars.

But my favourite thing this year was that brands at every price point began to embrace bold colour and shapes. The rapidly expanding trend of stone dials is a big part of this, as is a desire among collectors to find design-forward watches inspired by the cool case forms of the 1960s, ’70s, and ’80s. It’s one thing to wear a complicated watch that only enthusiasts will know is significant. It’s another to wear something rad that’s so plainly beautiful, anyone will stop you to ask about it.

As such, here are some graphic watches from 2025, in order of price.

Studi0 Underd0g Av0cado

If you missed your chance to scoop up this particular fruit-themed timepiece from the quirky, UK-based brand Studi0 Underd0g, never fear. There will be others to come. The colour combo on the front is of course delightful, and was actually inspired by a copycat avocado watch spotted by brand founder Richard Benc. But as always with SU’s watches, the excellent finishing on the chronograph movement is just as fun to admire through the transparent case-back. Price: $675

Baltic Pink Prismic

Baltic is a great entry-level brand that always has fun with styling. If you can’t manage to chase down a candy-pink Rolex Oyster Perpetual (spoiler: you can’t), this is a fun alternative you don’t have to be too precious about. Part of Baltic’s new “prismic stone” line, this manual stunner has a bright dial of the mineral albite. The domed crystal has a nice retro feel- as does the tidy 36-millimeter size. Price: $1,590

Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatic Worldtimer

These watches were on tons of “best of” lists, and for good reason: The 40mm worldtimer comes in six bright colour combos that are eye-catching and well designed. The countries around the edge of the dial move with a press of a pusher, and there’s a central 24-hour subdial you can use to always track your home time. Plus, the price tag can’t be beat. Price: $5,190

MB&F M.A.D. 2 Green

You can’t get this anymore, because it was distributed by lottery, but I just love this collaboration between the wizards at MB&F and the watch designer Eric Giroud. It has a bidirectional jumping-hour module developed by the MB&F team and is powered by a Swiss-made La Joux-Perret movement, with 64 hours of power reserve. The rotor spins behind the dial, creating a cool visual effect through the dots around the rim. Look for it on the secondary market ($6,000 more or less), or get ready for the next M.A.D. Editions raffle.

Chanel J12 Bleu

The new matte colour for Chanel’s classic ceramic watch from 2000 is elegant and understated but also bold. Just read Jack Forster’s paean to the original in Hodinkee from 2022- people are sleeping on this watch, and I hope the blue tone opens it up to a whole new crew of wearers. Price: $11,050

Cartier Tressage

The 18-karat gold gadroons are so striking and outrageous, it looks like something Cate Blanchett would have worn as part of her impeccably chic jewellery collection in the 1950s-set movie Carol. Sometimes class doesn’t bother with whispering. Price: $44,000 

H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Small Seconds Concept Pop

At Watches and Wonders in April, Moser launched a whole series of stone dials that were a step away from the striated malachite and tiger’s eye we were seeing with other brands. These were so clean, and the borders between stones so impeccable, they almost looked painted. As with many watches from this brand, a layperson wouldn’t know there’s extremely high-level horology within the case- but with this colour combo, it would turn their head anyway. Price: 39,000 Swiss francs ($49,500)

Piaget Andy Warhol 

Andy Warhol used to wear a chunky, distinctive Piaget called the Black Tie- which was among seven Piaget watches he owned. In 2024 the brand began an official collaboration with the late artist’s foundation to rename the watch the Andy Warhol. This one, which is limited to 50 pieces, has an 18-karat yellow-gold case and an onyx dial that bears slivers of yellow serpentine, pink opal and green chrysoprase. At a hefty 45mm by 43mm, it’s a big ol’ thing, but on the wrist it’s impossibly chic. Price: $78,000

Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal

The LVMH-owned Gérald Genta brand won the Ladies’ Watch Prize at the 2025 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the Oscars of watchmaking, for this fiesty “sea urchin” timepiece set with 137 fire opals and an orange carnelian dial. Price: Upon request
 



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French ready-to-wear ends 2025 caught between collapse and hope

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AFP

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December 29, 2025

Under pressure from fast fashion and the second-hand market, the French ready-to-wear sector is faltering, with bankruptcies, receiverships, and liquidations punctuating 2025. Even so, experts believe a rebound is possible, driven by a refocus on brand DNA, innovation, and an upmarket shift.

In mid-December, IKKS was taken over by the duo of Saint James and Santiago Cucci – IKKS

As the year draws to a close, the IKKS brand has just changed hands but will lose half its staff; JOTT (Just Over The Top) has been placed in receivership; and Anne Fontaine has had its safeguard plan approved. With Camaïeu, Kookaï, Jennyfer, André, San Marina, Minelli, Comptoir des Cotonniers, Princesse Tam Tam, and Kaporal, there are countless French companies in difficulty in this sector, or that have simply disappeared.

Brutal “impoverishment” and “downfall”

Nearly 1,500 clothing boutiques closed in France in 2024, according to a parliamentary report. The Union des Industries Textiles reports that the workforce has shrunk from 400,000 in the 1970s to 60,000 today. This figure does not, however, include in-store employees- 70,000 at the end of 2023, according to the Fédération nationale de l’habillement.

Having weathered the difficult shift to online sales, as well as Covid-19 and inflation, traditional players are now facing competition from second-hand and ultra-fast fashion- a “profound upheaval”, according to Gildas Minvielle, Director of the Economic Observatory at the French Fashion Institute (IFM). According to the IFM, these two channels now account for 13% of sales by value and nearly 30% of volumes purchased.

Historic players shaken up

Gildas Minvielle tells AFP: “The market share taken by these new entrants is very significant, and very damaging for the more established players. If the market had been buoyant, we could have hoped there would be room for everyone, but that’s not the case.” With an average price per item on Shein or Temu of €9- around one third of traditional mid-range prices- these Asian groups are causing a brutal “impoverishment,” “in a context where purchasing power is weak,” he says.

The battle between fast fashion and established players has reached parliamentary chambers
The battle between fast fashion and established players has reached parliamentary chambers – Assemblée nationale

To get to the root of the “downfall,” we need to travel back to the 1990s with the “arrival of first-generation fast-fashion brands” such as Zara and H&M, offering “collections that change every week to force people to buy,” says Benoît Heilbrunn, a philosopher and marketing professor at ESCP Business School.

Clear positioning and an industrial model for survival

“French chains haven’t been able to keep up, because they didn’t have and still don’t have an industrial model,” points out the brand specialist, while 97% of textiles consumed in France are imported. The other problem is that “French textile brands have had nothing to say for years,” he laments. “No one talks about innovation, no one talks about product.”

Françoise Clément, a fashion and retail expert, agrees and points to brands that have remained in their “comfort zone,” seeking to “buy the consumer with promotions” but that ultimately “have not created value.” According to this consultant, a former textile director at Carrefour, brands must reconnect with their “core DNA” and offer “clear positioning” to survive.

A “death spiral” of prices at the low end

The ready-to-wear sector is like “an hourglass,” she says, using a metaphor: the top of the hourglass (luxury and “heritage” brands) remains solid thanks to prestige. At the lower end, it’s a race to the bottom on price, with a “death spiral” that nonetheless finds its audience. In between, the mid-range is the segment “most in difficulty.”

Mid-range brands must “diversify and premiumise” and above all avoid imitating fast fashion, says Françoise Clément. The future requires a balance between “quality, attractiveness, innovation, and desirability,” as seen at “Lacoste or Aigle,” or Le Slip Français, for made-in-France production, or at Decathlon, which combines “accessibility and innovation.” The clothing crisis is “not inevitable,” she insists. Far from the prevailing “gloom,” “opportunities” exist for “brands that get moving.”

The annual State of Fashion BoF-McKinsey report lists several strategic areas for development: the “necessary” use of artificial intelligence, diversification of production sites in the face of the “turbulence” of international tariffs, moving upmarket, and the integration of a second-hand offer. A vast programme.

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French Customs find 25% of Shein’s non-textile goods are non-compliant

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AFP

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December 29, 2025

The French customs authorities told AFP on Saturday that, during an inspection of 320,474 Shein parcels in early November, 25% of non-textile products were found to be non-compliant, confirming a report by Le Parisien.

Shein

Among the irregularities identified during this high-profile operation at Roissy-CDG airport, Customs cited counterfeits, missing labelling, or instructions on cosmetics and electrical devices, as well as failures to comply with standards for certain toys.

This assessment revises down the figures previously announced by the government shortly after the operation. At the time, it said that of 200,000 parcels inspected, 80% were non-compliant.

As for textile products- the Shein platform’s core business- “few instances of non-compliance were found,” Customs reported, attributing this better result to the closure of its marketplace “a few days before the customs operation.”

The operation took place on November 6, and Shein said it had temporarily closed its marketplace to third-party sellers in France on November 5. The legal outcome of these checks and the number of any official reports issued were not specified.

The inspection took place the day after the government launched proceedings to suspend the platform, following the outcry over the sale of dolls of a paedophilic nature.

The Paris Judicial Court has since rejected the request for a temporary blocking order, deeming the measure “disproportionate,” given that Shein had withdrawn the illicit products from sale. The government has appealed.

The Asian platform has also launched an internal audit, and said it would gradually allow European third-party sellers who pass this internal check to sell again on its marketplace.

In France, the number of items contained in small parcels rose from 170 million in 2022 to 773 million in 2024, according to Customs. These products arrive 97% from China.

A previous targeted operation in 2022 found that 96% of the items were non-compliant or counterfeit, according to a parliamentary report in December.

European countries want to impose a €3 levy on small parcels from July 1, 2026, which could even be raised to €5 in France, depending on the outcome of the finance bill in the French Parliament.

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Copyright © 2025 AFP. All rights reserved. All information displayed in this section (dispatches, photographs, logos) are protected by intellectual property rights owned by Agence France-Presse. As a consequence you may not copy, reproduce, modify, transmit, publish, display or in any way commercially exploit any of the contents of this section without the prior written consent of Agence France-Presses.



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Amazon halts plans for drone delivery in Italy

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Reuters

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December 29, 2025

Amazon said on Sunday it has decided not to pursue plans to deliver goods by drone in Italy, saying that while it had made good progress with ⁠aerospace regulators, broader business regulatory issues did not support the project.

Flags flutter outside a distribution centre at Amazon’s logistics operations in Italy, in Passo Corese, Italy March 22, 2021 – REUTERS/Remo Casilli/File Photo

The ⁠Italian civil aviation ENAC called the decision unexpected, saying in a statement on Saturday ‍the ‌move was motivated by company policy, linked ⁠to “recent financial events ‌involving the Group.” The company had ‌announced in December 2024 the successful completion of initial tests of delivery drones in San Salvo, a town in ‍the central Abruzzo region.

In a statement to Reuters on Sunday, Amazon said: “Following a ‌strategic ⁠review, ​we have decided to stop ⁠our ​commercial drone delivery plans in Italy.”

“Despite positive engagement and progress with Italian ​aerospace regulators, the broader business regulatory framework in the country does ⁠not, at this ⁠time, support our longer-term objectives for this program,” Amazon added.

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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