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The art of influence: LV’s narrative journey in China

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Last week, Louis Vuitton unveiled a significant new space in Shanghai, “The Louis,” which seamlessly integrates retail, Le Café Louis Vuitton, and the “Louis Vuitton Visionary Journeys” exhibition within a magnificent boat-like facade.

Louis Vuitton’s new travel campaign captures the serene beauty of the Lijiang River, blending iconic trunks and the Soft Keepall with traditional bamboo rafts to reflect a harmonious dialogue between heritage and nature. – Credit by LV

Since the opening of the brand’s first store in Beijing’s Palace Hotel in 1992, Louis Vuitton embarked on its journey into the Chinese market with its iconic Monogram symbol. It wasn’t until the “Louis Vuitton: Voyages” exhibition at the National Museum of China in Beijing in 2009 that the brand’s design philosophy and historical heritage were systematically communicated to Chinese consumers for the first time, marking the completion of Louis Vuitton’s journey of cultural integration with the East.

Later, Louis Vuitton’s “City Guides” series—featuring 32 themed editions—blended its travel philosophy with urban cultural heritage, creating “portable city memories.” In 2022, the Louis Vuitton show in Anaya and the House of Louis Vuitton in Chengdu each became recognized cultural landmarks.

Luxury groups in China are increasingly embracing “cultural long-termism.” LVMH, Louis Vuitton’s parent company, outlined its 2024 China strategy as a shift from short-term traffic tactics to a long-term cultural approach. During the Q1 2025 earnings call, CFO Jean-Jacques Guiony reinforced this direction, emphasizing that sustainable growth in China relies on deeply understanding cultural consumption cycles—not merely reacting to technological trends.

Now, more than three decades later, the brand exemplifies the core principles of Chinese business wisdom through three major events.

Right time (天时 Tiānshí)

At the beginning of June, Louis Vuitton, in collaboration with China Post and DeepSeek AI, launched a pop-up store at the Shanghai Post Museum. This initiative transforms the brand’s travel philosophy into digital art and co-branded stamps, aiming to revitalize traditional letter culture amidst the resurgence of cultural tourism and the digital “Guócháo(国潮)” trend.
 

From June 7 to 15, 2025, Louis Vuitton opened a pop-up space at the Shanghai Postal Museum, showcasing its book series and stationery collections.
From June 7 to 15, 2025, Louis Vuitton opened a pop-up space at the Shanghai Postal Museum, showcasing its book series and stationery collections. – Credit by LV

 
Since its inception, “The Art of Travel” has been central to Louis Vuitton’s identity. Through publications such as the “City Guide,” which explores urban landscapes, the “Fashion Eye” series featuring evocative photography, and the “Travel Book” with its artistic reflections on destinations, the brand has crafted a narrative universe centered on exploration. These works embody the belief that “Life is a Journey,” inviting readers to embark on inspiring odysseys through each page. This collaboration has opened new channels of dialogue with the brand’s next generation of target consumers.

Right place (地利 Dìlì)

At the end of June, “The Louis” was completed at Taikoo Hui on Wujiang Road. This ship-shaped structure pays homage to Louis Vuitton’s nautical heritage and Shanghai’s port culture. Inside, a 1,200 sq. m. exhibition, a collaboration with OMA, and localized dining options—including Monogram dumplings—deeply integrate the spatial narrative with the city’s spirit. This integration of “spiritual symbols” demonstrates Louis Vuitton’s profound understanding of local culture, signifying that a fragmented, symbolic approach is obsolete in favor of a cohesive cultural interpretation.

Right people (人和 Rénhé)

Starting from July, the new travel campaign—beginning along the legendary Lijiang River landscape, captured by American photographer Alec Soth—showcases the Soft Keepall bag on a bamboo raft and Monogram Horizon suitcases with a convoy. Through an international lens, this campaign sheds the “Western gaze” and aims to evoke widespread emotional resonance with Eastern natural aesthetics. 

Following Guilin, the travel campaign will continue to explore China’s diverse landscapes. Together with the other two major events, this initiative aims to seize timely opportunities, deepen urban connections, and cultivate cultural empathy.
 

More than a journey, Louis Vuitton’s new travel campaign captures the contemplative essence while travel becomes a transformative odyssey, and an invitation to uncover hidden beauty.
More than a journey, Louis Vuitton’s new travel campaign captures the contemplative essence while travel becomes a transformative odyssey, and an invitation to uncover hidden beauty. – Credit by LV

 
As Louis Vuitton’s presence in the Chinese market quietly extends beyond three decades, it has transcended its origins as a Western luxury symbol to become a cultural and commercial touchstone—growing in tandem with China’s ’90s-born generation of consumers.

This intergenerational brand evolution can be understood through the dimensions of time, place, and people—navigating market cycles, integrating into the local market, and solidifying consumer perception. This strategic progression, mirroring the ancient Chinese wisdom of “Right Time, Right Place, and Right People,” has propelled Louis Vuitton’s transformation from a mere “top luxury leather goods” brand to a “culturally beloved entity in China,” showcasing the brand’s enduring power of continuous evolution beneath its classic heritage.

Written by Sissi Chu

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Jewelry giant Pandora eyes China revamp after 80% revenue drop

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Reuters

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July 11, 2025

Danish jewelry maker Pandora is exploring ways to restructure its business in China, according to two people familiar with the matter, following years of declining sales both online and in stores.

Pandora considers licensing assets in China amid market slump. – Reuters

The world’s largest jeweler by volume is in talks with China-based funds and e-commerce partners to potentially license its brand and assets — including inventory — for a five-year term, one of the sources said.

Like many multinational consumer brands operating in the world’s second-largest economy after the United States, Pandora has been hit hard by post-pandemic consumer malaise, compounded by an ongoing property crisis affecting broader economic sentiment.

The brand is also facing fierce competition from local, digitally savvy brands in China’s crowded e-commerce space, along with shifting consumer preferences toward gold and higher-value jewelry.

In a statement to Reuters, Pandora acknowledged the need to reposition its brand in China and confirmed that a turnaround is in progress, noting that “it will take time.” The company did not comment on specific restructuring discussions.

“China is the biggest jewelry market in the world, and we remain fully committed to the business there,” Pandora said.

According to exchange filings, Pandora’s China revenue dropped nearly 80% to 416 million Danish crowns ($65.10 million) in 2024, down from 1.97 billion crowns in 2019. Over the same period, China’s contribution to the company’s global revenue fell from 11% to about 1%.

Since 2022, Pandora’s China unit has had three managing directors. The current managing director, Thomas Knudsen, took over in January. Shortly afterward, the company announced plans to close 50 stores in China this year.

Finding a licensee or stakeholder may be “difficult” given Pandora’s declining performance in China and broader consumer headwinds, said Jonathan Yan, a principal at consulting firm Roland Berger in Shanghai.

“I don’t think financial investors are going to be interested in this asset,” Yan said. However, e-commerce firms seeking higher-margin brand ownership “may be interested.”

A precedent for such a deal could be Baozun’s acquisition of Gap’s China business in 2022. The Chinese e-commerce service provider bought the U.S. apparel retailer’s operations for $40 million to $50 million.

Reuters was unable to determine the current valuation for Pandora’s potential China deal.

Sales from Pandora’s e-commerce business in China have declined more sharply than its physical retail operations, according to a person with knowledge of the matter who was not authorized to speak publicly.

Yan added that a takeover by an operator with strong e-commerce expertise could be a step in the right direction, but any turnaround would require significant investment.

“They will need to burn money and have a very innovative approach — and even then, it won’t be easy,” he said.

($1 = 6.3902 Danish crowns)

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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Milano Unica trade show records 10% rise in international visitors

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Nicola Mira

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July 11, 2025

The Milano Unica textiles trade show has recorded a 10% increase in international visitors. The show’s 41st edition held on July 8-10 in Milan saw rising attendance figures for visitors from most of the markets where Italy exports its textiles, except for visitors from China, down 3.5%, and Korea, down 14%. Visitor numbers from other countries significantly increased, for example from the Netherlands (up 46%), Germany (up 33%), the UK (up 23%), the US (up 16%), France (up 14%) and Japan (up 9.5%).

Milano Unica

The share of international visitors at the show, which presented the Fall/Winter 2026-27 collections of premium fabrics and accessories for men, women and children, was 45% of the total. The number of exhibitors too was up from last edition, to 735, driven by an 8.7% increase in European exhibitors. 

“Almost all the main markets for Italian exports of fabrics and accessories, both in the EU and outside the EU, have responded positively. While the results, which I hope will be positive, will be seen in 2026, the satisfactory attendance figures of foreign buyers, a fact confirmed by the extensive positive feedback I gathered among fellow exhibitors, makes us look to the future with moderate optimism,” said Simone Canclini, president of Milano Unica.

“The exceptional results we have achieved in this edition of the show are the fruit of our team work, (..) and they confirm the strategic role Milano Unica plays in supporting [Italy’s] textile and fashion industries, evident also in the partnership with the MarediModa show,” said Massimo Mosiello, managing director of Milano Unica.

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Zalando takes majority stake in About You, targets 8% EBIT margin

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Translated by

Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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July 11, 2025

Zalando and About You, two of Europe’s leading online fashion platforms, have officially merged in a strategic move to unite their B2C and B2B strengths. While combining forces to accelerate growth across the region, both companies will retain distinct brand identities. Zalando will unveil the first outlook for the newly formed group on August 6, alongside its second-quarter earnings for fiscal year 2025.

Zalando will unveil its first outlook for the newly merged group on 6 August, alongside its Q2 2025 financial results. – Zalando

The European Commission approved the deal on July 1, including Zalando’s voluntary public takeover offer to About You shareholders. Zalando has now acquired 91.45% of the former Otto Group subsidiary’s share capital.

As a next step, Zalando intends to initiate a squeeze-out of remaining minority shareholders, offering them fair cash compensation. The squeeze-out will occur through a merger between About You and a wholly owned Zalando subsidiary.
Since announcing the planned merger on December 11, 2024, both companies say they’ve been preparing for this next phase—developing concrete plans to ensure a smooth transition post-merger.

“Zalando and About You both started as local startups and have grown into European success stories,” said Robert Gentz, Zalando’s co-CEO and co-founder. “We share a deep focus on quality, innovation, and staying close to our customers. Together, we’ll be a powerhouse shaping the future of fashion and lifestyle e-commerce in Europe.”

On the B2C side, the group plans to deliver differentiated and engaging shopping experiences for both customers and brands. In B2B, the integration of About You’s payment solution Scayle complements Zalando’s vision of building a full-scale operating system for the fashion and lifestyle sector.

“By combining our complementary logistics and software tools—Zeos, Tradebyte, and Scayle—we’re creating an even more robust e-commerce operating system,” the companies stated. “This will allow brands and retailers to efficiently manage multichannel businesses across Europe and beyond.”

“At the heart of this partnership is our shared mission to redefine how people shop for fashion and lifestyle products—and to bring real value to our customers and partners,” said Tarek Müller, co-CEO and co-founder of About You. Gentz added, “This strategic transaction unlocks major collaborative opportunities while allowing About You to retain its identity and entrepreneurial energy.”

Back in December 2024, Zalando reaffirmed its mid-term outlook for the combined group. By 2028, the company expects compound annual growth of 5 to 10 percent in both gross merchandise volume (GMV) and revenue.

The merged entity is also targeting an adjusted EBIT margin of 6 to 8 percent—representing a significant boost in absolute earnings.
Together, the companies aim to capture a larger share of Europe’s €450 billion fashion and lifestyle market.

Zalando will release its first official outlook for the combined business when it reports second-quarter results on August 6.

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