The atmosphere on the forecourt of Villa Noailles was effervescent, with a tightly packed crowd delighted to be back together again this year at the Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Accessories. Yet this must-attend event for fashion and emerging talent had been under threat from a severe budget crisis. In the crowd, there was palpable relief and a determination to do everything possible to make this 40th edition a success.
Crowds flock to the opening of the 40th Hyères Festival – ph DM
On the roof of the imposing rationalist building that hosts the event on the heights of Hyères, in the Var, a flag bearing a multicoloured sun flies. The flag was designed by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, who is on the Fashion competition jury. He stands alongside the other juries and institutional representatives on the new stage set up in the garden for the opening ceremony, set against the backdrop of another large rainbow sun. This new arrangement, a departure from the usual ritual at the villa entrance, gently signals the transition.
“This sun represents what Villa Noailles is all about: dream, creation… It’s the sun that will celebrate this 40th edition,” declared Pascale Mussard, the institution’s president, the first to speak on Thursday evening, thanking “all the people who make the Festival possible”.
The mayor of Hyères, Jean-Pierre Giran, followed suit, thanking, not without a certain emotion, all those present. “There are many of you here, and that’s what matters most, demonstrating your commitment to this project of creativity, modernity and youth,” he told the audience.
“This Festival project is one of a kind, particularly in terms of its reach and longevity,” emphasises Hugo Lucchino, the new general manager of the Villa Noailles art centre, who oversees not only the renowned competition for young designers but also other events such as Design Parade.
Before declaring the Festival officially open, Lucchino also thanked, “for their unfailing support,” the partners who have all stepped up at this pivotal moment for Villa Noailles. These include local institutional partners and the French Ministry of Culture, as well as private sponsors such as Chanel, Le 19M, LVMH, Hermès, Supima, Kering, American Vintage and Première Classe, to name but a few.
Support for creativity
“I’m really happy, I feel there’s incredible energy. You can sense that everyone is fully on board. We all want it to continue, because it’s a great festival,” said designer Lutz Huelle, who was on the jury in 2015. “We’re witnessing a kind of ‘reset’. The fact that there’s no jury president this year, but only fashion professionals, is a good idea, because Hyères is, above all, a Festival for young designers and students.”
Mauro Grimaldi, a consultant in the luxury sector who has been attending the event for thirty years, reiterated how important it is to support events of this kind.
“All anyone talks about is money, but it’s crucial to support independent creativity, because the young talent it generates is what feeds the fashion industry. That’s why this is a key edition,” he concluded.
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In the run-up to Christmas Boots is stepping up its gift-delivered-direct-to-the-door offer with delivery partners Uber Eats, Deliveroo and Just Eat, offering a within-30-minutes target.
Boots
The upgrade follows a surge of on-demand orders from “thousands of customers” on Christmas Eve last year. And it pointed to research that shows 56% leave some of their Christmas shopping to the very last day, so “the retailer is primed for another busy Christmas Eve”.
The health & beauty giant’s on-demand deliveries are now available from 500 stores across the UK, and in selected locations across the country, very-last-minute customers can order up until midnight on Christmas Eve “and will still receive their shopping in time for the big day”.
Boots said last-minute shoppers can choose from over 10,000 products with over 1,600 Christmas gifts available. Customers can also order up until Monday 22 December for Click & Collect in-store, and 23 December for next-day home delivery.
Paula Bobbett, chief Data and Digital officer at Boots, said: “We want to make it even easier for our customers who find themselves shopping right up to the last moment. Boots on-demand can help change that final dash into an easy delivery. We’re here to make shopping feel joyful, not stressful, helping shoppers find thoughtful gifts quickly and easily, even if they’ve missed online order cut-offs or store opening hours.”
The brand, founded in 2010 by Mathieu and Nicolas Gourdikian, who retain a minority stake, has faced a succession of crises that now threaten its very existence. The challenge is no longer simply to finance growth, but to ensure operational survival.
According to documents reviewed by FashionNetwork.com, JOTT’s commercial engine has stalled, leaving the brand with large volumes of stock to clear, eroding its brand image despite significant work on its stylistic proposition. For several seasons, substantial volumes of its down jackets have been offered at knock-down prices, and even sold off on markets.
After a sharp decline in activity at its logistics and distribution company JOTT Opérations in 2023, revenue collapsed again last year by more than 28% to 54.7 million euros. The company attributes this dramatic fall directly to the bankruptcy of its logistics provider at the beginning of 2024- an event that necessitated the urgent relocation of stock and a complex recovery of operations.
The cost of this logistical setback contributed to a deficit of 30 million euros at JOTT Opérations and an operating loss of more than 4 million euros for JOTT France, the company’s own distribution entity. The activities of entities in other markets are also suffering, implying that it remains to be proven that the brand concept can be exported profitably.
Faced with these accumulated losses, the operational companies’ equity turned negative, weakening the company’s structure just as significant instalments were falling due. In 2024, shareholder support helped address this situation, with 18 million euros injected in two tranches. However, this appears to have merely contained the damage, without preventing the massive depreciation of the group’s assets.
Thus, in 2025, the rescue plan faced an impossible equation: operating losses had made the enormous debt contracted at the time of the LBO unsustainable. Specifically, this debt- concentrated in a holding company called Jaguar Bidco- amounts to nearly 156 million euros. Negotiations with creditors, in particular Idinvest Partners and Eurazeo, were, understandably, extremely tight. The shareholder recapitalisation, approved last April, is clearly a vital step forward for the future of JOTT.
A tight agreement with creditors
This 99 million euro injection is not merely about plugging an accounting gap; it is an essential condition demanded by the company’s bondholders to give the business breathing space. In exchange for this major financial effort, creditors have agreed to pause certain financial obligations through a mechanism known as a waiver. However, this breathing space is not a blank cheque. In return for their patience, the creditors attached particularly strict covenants to the agreement. These contractual commitments oblige the company’s management to meet performance ratios quarter after quarter. For the brand, this means advancing under close scrutiny: any failure to meet the trajectory could break the waiver agreement and give creditors the right to demand immediate repayment of their claims, or even to take control of the equity.
If management keeps its commitments, this translates into crucial relief for cash flow: the suspension of interest payments on the debt until the end of 2027, turning immediate cash pressure into future debt. This should enable JOTT to concentrate its resources on the only thing that matters now: selling products.
This reprieve, coupled with agreements with banking partners, gives management, now led by Thierry Miremont, a two-year window to reinvent JOTT’s business model. According to the available information, the strategic plan includes an in-depth transformation of retail.
This transformation involves a painful but necessary rationalisation: the company has already begun closing shops deemed unprofitable, notably in Paris and Bordeaux and across various European markets. At the same time, JOTT is betting on technological modernisation to regain efficiency, accelerating the roll-out of performance initiatives such as an automatic replenishment tool, according to the company’s management. As the brand seeks to increase its share of full-price products, investment appears key: it must ensure that stock- already subject to significant write-downs- is managed as tightly as possible to reduce product obsolescence and maximise margins. One piece of good news? Despite the difficulties, the tax audits carried out in 2024 on Jaguar Topco, the ultimate parent company, and JOTT France concluded without any reassessments in 2025.
The challenge, however, is considerable. The company will have to return rapidly to profitability- probably requiring an annual improvement of several tens of millions of euros- in order to make up the deficit. It will also have to prove to its partners the group’s future viability. Without this operational performance, the brand will not be able to cope with the resumption of debt repayments in 2028.
Management did not wish to answer our questions about the company’s situation. Nevertheless, its teams are hard at work optimising store performance (with a network that has already shrunk to 140 points of sale), strengthening the desirability of the collections and attracting new retailers, notably by preparing to exhibit at the Pitti Uomo trade fair in Florence and Who’s Next in Paris. But despite this operational proactivity, the challenge remains major: to turn the brand around by making it more agile and efficient within a compressed timeframe and against an unfavourable backdrop in both the French and international markets.
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Czech streetwear specialist Footshop told FashionNetwork.com about its ambitions for the French market. It has now set its sights on Rue de Rivoli in Paris’s 1st arrondissement for its French flagship, FashionNetwork.com has learned. The opening date for this sixth store has not yet been announced.
63 Rue de Rivoli (Paris 1st arrondissement) – Google Street View
With this address, Footshop secures a 237 square-metre, three-storey store, where the retailer will be flanked by menswear label Delaveine and Ray-Ban on one side, and by Bershka and Uniqlo on the other. Opposite, the building at 126 Rue de Rivoli, previously occupied by C&A, will in 2027 house a Radisson Collection hotel and 3,000 square metres of retail space.
Launched in Prague in 2012 by Peter Hajducek, Footshop will be well placed to attract shoppers from both Forum des Halles and the neighbouring Samaritaine. Aiming to become the European leader in streetwear, the company positions itself as a response to an increasingly discerning customer base.
The brand’s flagship in Prague – Footshop
This approach has prompted Nike, Adidas Originals, Puma, New Balance, Asics, and Birkenstock to collaborate with the retailer, which operates flagships in Prague, Budapest, Bucharest, Bratislava, and Warsaw, but relies primarily on online sales. The company recently said that its digital platforms, Footshop and Queens, are said to have generated 82 million visits and 585,000 downloads in one year.
After achieving sales of 61.6 million euros (75% generated internationally) in 2024, the company is expected to reach 82 million euros in 2025, representing annual growth of 40%.
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