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Textile and clothing sector calls for ‘urgent measures’ in Portugal

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Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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September 10, 2025

Several groups in the textile and clothing sector in Portugal have announced the closure of production units and the dismissal of hundreds of employees. The associations that represent them are calling for emergency measures, such as layoffs and revitalization plans, so that companies can be genuinely restructured and both manufacturers and workers can be saved.

Textile and clothing sector calls for ’emergency measures’ in Portugal – ATP / The Green Way

Companies in difficulty have been multiplying across Portugal for several weeks, with some trying to resume operations through revitalization plans and debt restructuring. However, many others have not reopened since the summer break.

According to Ana Dinis, director general of the Textile and Clothing Association of Portugal (ATP): “To deal with this crisis, the government and the European Union must adopt swift and concrete measures: a simplified layoff to help manage the workforce in periods of falling demand, instruments to support cash flow, and more flexible measures for companies to adjust,” she told ECO.

The expert, who holds a degree in International Relations and International Trade and has worked in the Portuguese textile and clothing industry since 2004, adds that, “firm measures against unfair competition are needed, such as an end to de minimis regimes, the application of specific taxes to ultra-fast fashion, and greater supervision within the European internal market.”

In the opinion of César Araújo, founder and CEO of Calvelex and president of the National Association of the Clothing and Apparel Industries (ANIVEC): “Companies need to restructure. And that’s only possible with the PER,” he told ECO, stressing that, “there has to be a simplified layoff for companies to get orders.”

“This situation can be solved with three measures: long-term debt, restructuring mechanisms with social security, and simplified layoffs,” he added.

“Europe has squandered its market, opened its doors, and we are witnessing the biggest tax fraud of the 21st century. There are more than 100 billion euros without customs control — it’s the biggest tax evasion.”

According to an activity survey for the first half of 2025, carried out by ATP in June, exports from the textile and clothing sector totaled €2.79 billion between January and June 2025 — a drop of 1.3% compared to the same period in 2024, which had already seen a 3.9% decline compared to 2023.

The latest survey reveals that 66% of companies reported a decline in turnover, and 67% recorded a drop in production in the first half of the year, with 65% anticipating a further decline in turnover in the second half.

Nevertheless, in Ana Dinis’ view, the Portuguese sector continues to maintain its capacity for innovation, differentiation, and internationalization.

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Birks sales surge on European acquisition, strong retail performance

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December 8, 2025

Birks announced on Friday a 16.2% uptick in half-year sales to $93.1 million, on the back of the Canadian jeweller’s acquisition of European Boutique, and a strong retail performance.

Birks

The Montreal-based company also logged an increase in third-party branded timepieces across multiple brands for the 26 weeks ending September 27, in addition to gains in sales of Birks branded jewelry and third-party branded jewelry.

Meanwhile, comparable store sales rose 6.3%, attributable to strong sales in all product categories, particularly in third-party branded timepieces, but also in Birks branded jewelry and third-party branded jewelry, the company added.

In light of the strong sales performance, Birks narrowed its earnings loss during the six months to an operating loss of $0.2 million, compared to a reported operating loss of $0.3 million in the prior-year period.

“Our net sales, gross profit and comparable store sales for the first half of Fiscal 2026 are higher than the corresponding period in Fiscal 2025 due in part to the acquisition of the European business but also due to our strong retail performance, which speaks to the strength of our product offerings, both in terms of our Birks branded products and our third-party branded watches and jewelry,” said Niccolò Rossi di Montelera, executive chairman of the board and interim CEO.

“I would like to thank our teams for their dedication and hard work. The growth achieved in the first half of Fiscal 2026 is a testament of our commitment to our customers and I am grateful for the unwavering efforts of all our employees which contributed to these results and the successful integration of the European stores.”

In July, Birks acquired the luxury watch and jewellery business of European Boutique from its founders, the Sutkiewicz family, for a purchase price of $9 million.

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Koio relaunches the Primo with Rose Anvil

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December 7, 2025

NYC-based footwear brand Koio is relaunching The Primo, the high-top sneaker that debuted the brand in 2015, in a limited-edition collaboration with leatherworker and YouTube creator Rose Anvil for its tenth anniversary.

Koio relaunches the Primo with Rose Anvil. – Koio

The updated Primo maintains Koio’s original Italian build standards, with internal upgrades including a full leather Strobel board, leather toe cap and counter, and a gum outsole. The upper is crafted from vegetable-tanned, untreated Vachetta calf leather sourced from Italian tannery Conceria Annarita, allowing the sneaker to naturally darken and develop a unique patina with wear.

“Reintroducing the Primo for our ten-year anniversary is incredibly meaningful,” said Johannes Quodt, co-founder of Koio. “It was the shoe that launched the brand, so bringing it back with Rose Anvil’s technical rigor felt like the right way to honor its legacy. The Vachetta leather will age beautifully, making this one of the most personal and character-rich versions we’ve ever created.”

The Primo first debuted in February 2015 at Koio’s Bowery pop-up, created by the founders as their ideal high-top sneaker. The silhouette remained a core style for five years before the brand shifted focus as its range expanded. Koio continued to receive requests from collectors and longtime customers to bring back the original design, prompting the reissue as part of the brand’s tenth-anniversary celebrations.

“The Primo was already a well-built sneaker, but replacing every internal synthetic component with leather significantly elevates the craftsmanship,” said Weston Kay, Rose Anvil. “Using untreated Vachetta leather means the shoe doesn’t just look good out of the box but it continues to improve over time.”

Koio’s work with Rose Anvil follows the success of their first collaboration—the Koio x Rose Anvil Capri Triple White—which sold out in less than 24 hours.

The limited-edition Primo is priced at $325 and is now available exclusively online.

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Victoria’s Secret raises full-year outlook on strong Q3

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December 7, 2025

Victoria’s Secret & Co. on Friday reported better-than-expected sales in the third quarter, prompting the U.S. lingerie giant to raise its full year outlook.

Victoria’s Secret raises full-year outlook on strong Q3. – Victoria’s Secret

The Ohio-based company said sales for the three months ending November 1 totalled $1.472 billion, up 9% from the third quarter of 2024 and above its previously communicated guidance range of $1.390 billion to $1.420 billion. Meanwhile, total comparable sales for the third quarter of 2025 increased 8%.

Victoria’s Secret recouped its earnings, reporting a net loss of $37 million, or $0.46 per diluted share, compared to net loss of $56 million, or $0.71 per diluted share, for the third quarter of 2024.

“With two iconic brands, Victoria’s Secret and Pink, a curated product assortment, high-emotion marketing and a relentless customer focus, we are reinforcing our leadership in global intimates and beauty,” said Victoria’s Secret & Co. CEO, Hillary Super.

“As we continue to advance our Path to Potential strategy, we are accelerating global growth, elevating brand distinctiveness, and unlocking greater value across our ecosystem to drive long-term profitable growth.”

Looking ahead, the company is now forecasting full-year net sales in the range of $6.450 billion to $6.480 billion, compared to prior guidance of $6.330 billion to $6.410 billion for the full year 2025. Adjusted net income per diluted share is estimated to be in the range of $2.40 to $2.65, compared to prior guidance of $1.80 to $2.20.

For the fourth quarter, the company is forecasting net sales to be in the range of $2.170 billion to $2.200 billion compared to last year’s fourth quarter net sales of $2.106 billion.

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