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Swiss watch industry sees tough times ahead over Trump tariffs

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April 3, 2025

Swiss watch seller Sacha Davidoff was scrambling on Thursday to understand what new U.S. tariffs on Switzerland announced by President Donald Trump meant for the goods he was due to export from his shop in Geneva this week.

Reuters

“I made a deal and now we’re stuck. We are supposed to ship the watch, but what do we do now? He (the client) won’t want to pay 31% more. It doesn’t feel real,” Davidoff said.

Shares in European luxury companies dropped on Thursday after Trump announced import tariffs, including 31% on goods from Switzerland and 20% from the European Union.

The vintage watches Davidoff sells are worth an average of 20,000 Swiss francs ($23,272) and could now be subject to another 6,000 Swiss francs in import tax.

JPMorgan analysts said they expected to see most pressure on the Swiss watchmakers, with both Cartier-owner Richemont and Swatch Group already on thin margins. Richemont did not reply to a request for comment. Swatch did not comment.

The U.S. is Switzerland’s top foreign watch market, accounting for 16.8% of exports, or 4.4 billion francs worth, according to Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry.

Davidoff said he sells on average about 250 vintage watches by Rolex, Piaget and Patek Philippe annually and that the U.S. accounts for 60% of his business.
“I’m assuming that retailers are freaked out over there too,” said Davidoff. “It is just going to put the market into complete freeze, or free fall.”

At a large conference hall in Geneva on Thursday where thousands of people flocked to admire the latest products being promoted by Swiss brands like Rolex, Cartier and Chopard, industry insiders were fretting about the future.

“It’s been tense. Some meetings with Americans have been cancelled. Sales will surely be down. The year ahead doesn’t look very promising for the watch industry,” said Clement Fehrenbacher of Le Cercle des Horlogers.

The Neuchatel-based company manufactures the small parts inside watches for big watch brands in Switzerland.

“It’ll be very difficult to get new projects if the market doesn’t recover,” Fehrenbacher said. “One of our clients is American, and we’re waiting to see.”

Behind the steady flow of champagne and glittering watches at the conference, concern was palpable among watchmakers after an already challenging 2024, which saw sales to China, the no. 2 market, decline by more than a quarter.

Many of the big names setting out their stalls in Geneva opted to remain silent about Trump’s trade measures.

Vacheron Constantin marked its 270th birthday at the Watches and Wonders show by presenting an intricate new wristwatch boasting more than 1,521 component parts. But it declined to comment on the tariffs, as did those of other famous names.

“The U.S. market is absolutely critical,” said David Sadigh, founder and CEO of Digital Luxury Group, a business consultancy. “With potential slowdown domestically in China, I think that you can feel some nervousness.”

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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Retail rents in Europe rise in 2024, leisure sector drives demand

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Translated by

Nicola Mira

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April 15, 2025

Real estate services firm Cushman & Wakefield has published a study analysing data from over 2,000 rental transactions carried out in Europe in 2024. The study charts the evolution of the commercial real estate sector in the continent, where retail rents posted an overall increase compared to the previous year. The phenomenon was notable especially in retail parks, which reached record rental levels, and in the prime commercial high streets of Europe’s major cities, a thriving landscape for leading fashion labels. Prime high street rents recorded “strong growth on 44% of the 209 streets analysed – as opposed to 30% at the end of 2022 and 35% at the end of 2023 – while rents were stable on 53% of them,” stated the study.

The Champs-Elysées in Paris – Adam McCullough / Shutterstock.com

The highest increases were recorded on luxury shopping streets, due to “sustained demand and low vacancy rates. Italy stood out for its rent rises, as did commercial high streets in Hungary and Poland, which performed strongly.”

Rental fees on the Champs-Elysées in Paris also increased, after many international brands, notably sportswear ones, established a presence there on the eve of the 2024 Olympic Games. “Since space on the Champs-Elysées cannot be increased, rising demand has had an effect on the rental costs of smaller premises, a phenomenon that is replicated on the Parisian high streets most sought-after by retailers,” said Christian Dubois, head of retail France at Cushman & Wakefield.

In 2024, the number of commercial real estate transactions in Europe was on par with the previous year. There was “a predominance [of transactions for] premises under 600 square metres in almost all business segments, which accounted for 84% of transactions and 22% of rented space in 2024.”

Leisure sector transactions up 15%

Transactions for the leisure sector (climbing walls, VR hubs, music venues etc.) posted an above-average rise in 2024. While the fashion sector topped the ranking in terms of number of contracts signed (accounting for one third of transactions and 39% of rented space), the leisure sector boomed, recording a 15% annual increase in transactions and a 20% increase in commercial area leased compared to 2023.

The leisure sector has an appetite for large premises, and now accounts for 9% of the total commercial real estate area rented in Europe. “Leisure operators have successfully taken advantage of the space freed up by department stores, for example the former Debenhams building in Westfield London, most of which was taken over by Capital Theatre to transform it into a 620-seat auditorium,” stated the report.

At a time when rental costs are driven up by consumer caution and geopolitical uncertainty, brands are focusing their real estate strategy on “ways to maximise revenue while optimising costs.” They are therefore prioritising flagships, opting for quality over quantity. “We are also seeing a significant acceleration in cross-border activity as retailers look for growth in new markets, deploying store opening strategies often focused on individual cities rather than a country as a whole,” said Robert Travers, head of EMEA retail at Cushman & Wakefield.

Looking to 2025, the main element to monitor is the impact of international trade policy on commercial real estate, and therefore whether brands will be seeking new retail space or not. “These disruptive effects will not be felt as quickly as on the stock market, and they are unlikely to apply uniformly, but the new [trade] policies have added complexity and higher costs to the retail supply chain,” said Travers.

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Gloucester Quays continues positive sales results in year’s performance to March

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Gloucester Quays shopping centre has continued to record a “bumper period of sales”, driving sales growth up 6% in the last financial year covering April 2024 to March 2025, its operator Peel Retail & Leisure said.

Although the latest rise failed to match the previous record increase of 11%, the single-digit gain is still noteworthy up against tough year-on-year comparisons.

It also said brands that invested in new store fits and renewed leases “in particular benefitted from growth”, highlighting the performances of Skechers and Mountain Warehouse.

The latest figures also showed “consistent performance and sustained growth at the outlet” with retail sales from current tenants up by 5%.
 
Paul Carter, asset director at Peel Retail & Leisure, said: “Gloucester Quays has driven sustained growth year-on-year, a legacy that reinforces our long-standing commitment to providing a best-in-class experience.

“We are continuing to adapt to evolving consumer demand for lifestyle-led spaces, something we are uniquely able to deliver as a destination that crosses between both city centre convenience and aspirational outlet. With recently reinvested brands topping the books for growth alongside our new additions, the success of our tried and tested strategy for delivering this speaks for itself.”
 
He noted that Gloucester Quays has welcomed “a host of renewals since the beginning of 2025” with eight tenants recommitting to the destination this year, including Trespass, Puma, Adidas, and The North Face.

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Kismet by Milka opens New Bond Street, London store

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“Challenger Istanbulian fine-jeweller” Kismet by Milka has opened a statement flagship store on London’s luxury New Bond Street.

With the expansion “mark[ing] a significant milestone in the brand’s journey to bring their authentic designs to even more people globally”, it joins 17 stores globally and over 100 points of sale, including  Neiman Marcus, 24S, El Corte Inglés, with the latest expansion “ensuring [our] presence in one of the world’s fashion capitals”.
 
The new store spans 1,500 sq ft across two floors, featuring Turkish-designed and fashioned fine jewellery alongside two luxury piercing studios. The latter claims to be “the first and only piercing studio driven by experienced piercers on New Bond Street, reinforcing Kismet by Milka’s expertise in blending earring and luxury piercing with fine jewellery”.

The brand was founded in 2009 by designer Milka Karaağaçlı İnce and she said: To stand here today [on Bond Street], in the city where I took my first steps as a designer, isn’t just an achievement… it’s proof of what happens when challengers dare to believe.”

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