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Stefano Martinetto (Tomorrow): “Cavalli is focusing on younger generations and the US market”

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Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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October 30, 2025

Cavalli is entering a new relaunch phase with Tomorrow. FashionNetwork.com spoke with Stefano Martinetto, the CEO and founder of the London-based fashion incubator, selected by Cavalli’s owner, Damac, to steer the Italian label into a new phase of development across international markets.

Stefano Martinetto – Tomorrow Ltd

“Damac has both significant resources to invest and great ambitions for the brand,” says Martinetto, who, through his company, is an equity partner in Coperni, Martine Rose and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy. He also oversees a substantial portfolio of distributed brands, including Hed Mayner, guest designer for the next edition of Pitti Uomo.

The deal with Cavalli, announced in a joint statement, has definitively dispelled recent rumors of a potential sale of the fashion business led by creative director Fausto Puglisi. It also marks the start of a “very deep” partnership. “We will work almost as an internal team, hand in hand with management,” Martinetto explains.

“Tomorrow will handle all commercial aspects, from merchandising to category development,” the entrepreneur continues. “We will also assist the brand with collaborations and co-branding, right through to structuring marketing budgets and go-to-market strategies. We will work together four to five hours per week; it will be a highly integrated effort, similar to what we have already done with Zegna x Fear of God or Diesel Red Tag,” Martinetto adds.

To accelerate its international development, Cavalli has chosen a robust partner in Tomorrow, a global leader among multi-brand showrooms. The company reached €130 million in gross merchandise value (GMV) in 2025 and operates offices in Milan, Paris and Shanghai. Tomorrow also owns the US agency Goods and Services, which has branches in New York, Los Angeles, Atlanta and Seattle.

The collaboration will officially begin next week, following the example of Cavalli’s successful co-branding with Skims. “The initiative succeeded in giving the product a younger image through a high-impact advertising campaign. The sell-out was total and immediate. The success with Skims is something we intend to replicate. We will be highly focused on delivering projects of the highest quality,” Martinetto continues.

An SS26 look by Roberto Cavalli
An SS26 look by Roberto Cavalli – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The partnership’s rollout will occur in two phases, commencing with the Fall/Winter 2026 season in EMEA and Asia, followed by the US market in 2027. “The US can once again become Cavalli’s most important market, but the preparation will require a great deal of work. The brand has very strong relationships with several longstanding partners overseas. For the first year, we will keep the market unchanged, without promoting the brand through other channels, also to allow these partners to capitalize on their investments,” explains Tomorrow’s CEO.

As for distribution, Tomorrow plans to shift the center of gravity of Cavalli’s sales toward full-price channels by prioritizing specialist retailers. “We will reduce the relative weight of department stores and e-tailers. In an increasingly challenging market, specialist retailers are performing well, especially in North America and in Asia, while department stores and online retailers are so overstocked that they often find themselves competing on price,” Martinetto notes.

The partnership will also target younger consumers. “The company has not fully expressed Gen Z and Millennials‘ obsession with Cavalli in recent years. Our task is to rejuvenate the customer base and reach them through international channels.” The resort and cruise segments will also serve as strategic growth levers. “We see a huge opportunity for growth across the brand’s resort universe,” Martinetto concludes.

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Puma to supply F1 champions McLaren with motor racing kit in global deal

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January 20, 2026

Puma will supply team kit to Formula One champions McLaren this season in a multi-year global deal that also covers activities in ⁠IndyCar, World Endurance from 2027, virtual racing, and the ⁠all-female F1 Academy series. No financial details were given.

Formula One F1 – Abu Dhabi Grand Prix – Yas Marina Circuit, Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates – December 7, 2025 McLaren’s Lando Norris celebrates after becoming the 2025 Formula One World Champion – REUTERS/Jakub Porzycki

“Our sport is in ‍incredible ‌shape, and it’s been fantastic to ⁠see an ‌influx of major fashion ‌and lifestyle brands who are looking for deep and meaningful ways to engage with our growing global ‍fanbase,” said McLaren Racing CEO Zak Brown.

McLaren previously had a ‌deal ⁠with ​Castore, with some media ⁠reports ​suggesting that was worth 30 million pounds ($40.41 million) a year.

Puma ​also equip Ferrari and Aston Martin. Williams have meanwhile ⁠switched to ⁠US lifestyle brand New Era.

© Thomson Reuters 2026 All rights reserved.



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Estee Lauder sued by beauty tech startup for alleged theft

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January 20, 2026

Estee Lauder was sued by a self-described “disruptive” startup that accused the cosmetics giant of effectively putting it out of business by stealing technology to boost sales from jet-setting travellers in hotels.

Nomi has accused Estee Lauder of stealing its technology – Bloomberg

In a complaint filed on Friday night in Manhattan ⁠federal court, Nomi Beauty said Estee Lauder has been “driving literally billions in new revenue” to itself after abandoning contracts ⁠in 2018 and 2020, including means to determine consumers’ actual preferences for cosmetics instead of their stated preferences.

Nomi- the name is a homophone for “know me,” as in the customer- ‍said its “secret ‌sauce” was intended to help the parent of Clinique and MAC lipstick ⁠generate more revenue from luxury ‌hotel duty-free shops and in-room purchases, and become less dependent ‌on traditional retail stores. Rather than honour its contracts or follow through on discussions to purchase Nomi outright, Estee Lauder allegedly starved Nomi’s hotel partners of products, while rolling out competing programs in China, Costa Rica, ‍Malaysia, the UK and the US.

These programs “rely on the very same trade secrets Nomi had been educating Lauder about for years,” the ‌complaint said. Nomi ⁠is ​seeking unspecified compensatory, punitive, and triple damages. Estee Lauder did ⁠not immediately ​respond to requests for comment.

“Nomi’s stolen innovations brought Estee Lauder into the information age, and Estee Lauder continues to profit from them wildly,” Nomi’s ​lawyer Matthew Schwartz said in an email. Both companies are based in New York.

Since last February, Estee Lauder has ⁠pursued a “Beauty Reimagined” strategy, including prestige ⁠launches and a streamlining of its supply chain, to revive sliding sales. The strategy also called for up to 7,000 job cuts.

© Thomson Reuters 2026 All rights reserved.



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Milan menswear shows add bling with brooches

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January 20, 2026

Long reserved for women or military dress, brooches adorned men’s chests during Milan Fashion Week, a throwback to a bygone era but with jewellery now signalling individuality, not just status.

A brooch by Dolce & Gabbana – Aleksej Shelikhov- Facebook

From huge flowers or watch brooches at Dolce & Gabbana to pins at Armani, the bling passed from hands to jackets during the fall/winter 2026/2027 shows in the Italian city.

“I like these small details, people have to pay attention to them,” said reggaeton star Rauw Alejandro, in the front row at Prada.

Chinese buyer John Chen, 45, sported a gold brooch in the shape of a triangle, the Milanese brand’s logo, on a green sweater just below his neck. “I started wearing brooches about five years ago. I like to play with them” to personalise outfits, he told AFP.

In Armani’s refined yet relaxed collection, some men sported a tie pin on their jacket lapel, while male and female models wore matching sparkling brooches. At designer Rowen Rose, a large orange stone was used to fasten a green or yellow scarf to a matching sweater.

“It gives an extra touch. It’s a good accessory- it’s become very masculine,” said Fabio Annese, a 26-year-old Milanese interior designer sporting a heart-shaped brooch at Dolce & Gabbana.

Known for its extravagant style, D&G has been selling brooches for men since entering the jewellery world in 2015, and they are “still important in more formal collections,” a spokesperson said. Among their offerings are crosses, crowns, scarabs, and flowers in gold and embellished with diamonds, the last costing a cool 7,500 euros (around $8,800).

The trend is in many ways a return to the past. In Europe, until the 18th century, the “most important” jewellery was worn by men, explained Emanuela Scarpellini, professor of contemporary history at the University of Milan.

Wealthy and powerful men used it as a sign of their status, the glittering accessories often signalling membership of a noble family or a religious order, or military rank. It was only with the rise of the middle-classes and businessmen in the 19th century that came “the idea that men should dedicate themselves to work, with a more sober attitude,” Scarpellini said at the launch of a new Milan exhibition.

“The Gentlemen,” on show at the Palazzo Morando until September, reveals how men’s jewellery since then usually served a purpose, such as watches, cufflinks and tie pins. Nowadays “there’s a new freedom,” as with clothing, said exhibition curator Mara Cappelletti, a professor of jewellery history.

“There are fewer jewellery pieces with a function, and more with a freer choice,” she told AFP. “Many of the objects men wear today were not designed for a male audience,” she said, adding that many were vintage. “The brooch has never been so popular.”

Cappelletti noted that the trend was boosted by singers and actors wearing a lot of jewellery, noting a photograph of Italian singer Achille Lauro sporting a huge white gold and diamond sculpted piece on his chest, with matching earrings. All provided by the jeweller Damiani, which sponsors the pop star. 

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