The crucial place VAT-free sales have in department store retail has been shown by the latest results from Oslo’s Steen & Strøm, the world’s oldest continuously running department store.
Steen & Strøm
It said this week that it’s “celebrating record tax-free sales, marking its fourth consecutive year of growth”.
Tax-free sales surged 27% in the first eight months of 2025 and overall transactions grew 16% with average spend up 9%. The figures show how big a part tax-free sales play for such retailers and in August alone, tax-free sales grew by 34%, according to data from Global Blue. That spectacular August result came despite the month having one less shopping day compared to August 2024.
That’s a lesson also seen from recent results at other stores across Europe and one that’s highlighted — in reverse — by UK department stores that have been reporting lower sales due to the absence of tax-free shopping for their international customers.
It’s interesting that the retailer’s 1,000 brands proved most popular with Chinese shoppers, followed by visitors from the US, UK, Thailand and India. The presence of UK shoppers on the list also highlights another issue that British retailers have had since tax-free shopping for tourists was all-but-abolished following Brexit. It seems that not only are international shoppers not coming to the UK as often, but Britons themselves are choosing to take trips abroad to do their shopping rather than buying from stores like Harrods or Selfridges.
Back with Steen & Strøm, the results follow its best-ever trading year in 2024, “which was in large part driven by its move to capitalise on tax-free shopping sales as well as capital expenditure initiatives by Promenaden Management to enhance the store’s appeal – both to international visitors as well as a domestic shoppers, from which S&S and the wider Promenaden shopping district is seeing growing demand”.
In June, Steen & Strøm launched a new tax-free refund service on Level 5 within the store’s Tech Hall. The service is available not only to Steen & Strøm visitors but also to shoppers from Promenaden and Greater Oslo. Since launch, the desk has quickly become the second most frequented VAT reclaim location in Norway, after Gardermoen Airport, based on transactions during July and August 2025.
The retailer also said that it anticipates the year-to-date growth trend will remain in strong double digits through the remainder of 2025.
Steen & Strøm
David Wilkinson, Executive Director at Promenaden Management, said: “British shoppers are increasingly coming to Oslo and other European capitals to take advantage of tax-free shopping… The city is quickly solidifying its position as one of the world’s most sought-after retail destinations, an appeal which is further bolstered by the capital’s offering of a uniquely Scandinavian brand of chic and promise of year-round cool weather.
“At Steen & Strøm, we’ve seen first-hand how this appeal combines with tax-free shopping to drive record demand, with many customers telling us they are choosing to make their luxury purchases abroad rather than in London. This was a large factor in our decision to launch a new dedicated tax-free refund service, which has paid dividends both for the store and for shoppers seeking rebates on their purchases.”
The demerger of Unilever‘s ice cream division, to be named ‘The Magnum Ice Cream Company,’ which had been delayed in recent months by the US government shutdown, will finally go ahead on Saturday, the British group announced.
Reuters
Unilever said in a statement on Friday that the admission of the new entity’s shares to listing and trading in Amsterdam, London, and New York, as well as the commencement of trading… is expected to take place on Monday, December 8.
The longest federal government shutdown in US history, from October 1 to November 12, fully or partially affected many parts of the federal government, including the securities regulator, after weeks without an agreement between Donald Trump‘s Republicans and the Democratic opposition.
Unilever, which had previously aimed to complete the demerger by mid-November, warned in October that the US securities regulator (SEC) was “not in a position to declare effective” the registration of the new company’s shares. However, the group said it was “determined to implement in 2025” the separation of a division that also includes the Ben & Jerry’s and Cornetto brands, and which will have its primary listing in Amsterdam.
“The registration statement” for the shares in the US “became effective on Thursday, December 4,” Unilever said in its statement. Known for Dove soaps, Axe deodorants and Knorr soups, the group reported a slight decline in third-quarter sales at the end of October, but beat market expectations.
Under pressure from investors, including the activist fund Trian of US billionaire Nelson Peltz, to improve performance, the group last year unveiled a strategic plan to focus on 30 power brands. It then announced the demerger of its ice cream division and, to boost margins, launched a cost-saving plan involving 7,500 job cuts, nearly 6% of the workforce. Unilever’s shares on the London Stock Exchange were steady on Friday shortly after the market opened, at 4,429 pence.
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Burberry has named a new chief operating and supply chain officer as well as a new chief customer officer. They’re both key roles at the recovering luxury giant and both are being promoted from within.
Matteo Calonaci becomes chief operating and supply chain officer, moving from his role as senior vice-president of strategy and transformation at the firm.
In his new role, he’ll be oversee supply chain and planning, strategy and transformation, and data and analytics. He succeeds Klaus Bierbrauer, who’s currently Burberry supply chain and industrial officer. Bierbrauer will be leaving the company following its winter show and a transition period.
Matteo Calonaci – Burberry
Meanwhile, Johnattan Leon steps up as chief customer officer. He’s currently currently Burberry’s senior vice-president of commercial and chief of staff. In his new role he’ll be leading Burberry’s customer, client engagement, customer service and retail excellence teams, while also overseeing its digital, outlet and commercial operations.
Both Calonaci and Leon will join the executive committee, reporting to Company CEO Joshua Schulman.
JohnattanLeon – Burberry
Schulman said of the two execs that the appointments “reflect the exceptional talent and leadership we have at Burberry. Both Matteo and Johnattan have been instrumental in strengthening our focus on executional excellence and elevating our customer experience. Their deep understanding of our business, our people, and our customers gives me full confidence that their leadership will help drive [our strategy] Burberry Forward”.
Traditional and occasion wear designer Puneet Gupta has stepped into the world of fine jewellery with the launch of ‘Deco Luméaura,’ a collection designed to blend heritage and contemporary aesthetics while taking inspiration from the dramatic landscapes of Ladakh.
Hints of Ladakh’s heritage can be seen in this sculptural evening bag – Puneet Gupta
“For me, Deco Luméaura is an exploration of transformation- of material, of story, of self,” said Puneet Gupta in a press release. “True luxury isn’t perfect; it is intentional. Every piece is crafted to be lived with and passed on.”
The jewellery collection features cocktail rings, bangles, chokers, necklaces, and statement evening bags made in recycled brass and finished with 24 carat gold. The stones used have been kept natural to highlight their imperfect and unique forms and each piece in the collection has been hammered, polished, and engraved by hand.
An eclectic mix of jewels from the collection – Puneet Gupta
Designed to function as wearable art pieces, the colourful jewellery echoes the geometry of Art Deco while incorporating distinctly South Asian imagery such as camels, butterflies, and tassels. Gupta divides his time between his stores in Hyderabad and Delhi and aims to bring Indian artistry to a global audience while crafting a dialogue between designer and artisan.