Staff International, the main operating company of Renzo Rosso‘s Italian fashion empire, has fired the latest volley in its dispute with Dsquared2’s decision to interrupt their licensing agreement.
Renzo Rosso – Photo: Diesel / Martin Schoeller
The Staff release comes six hours after Dsquared2 released a communiqué Thursday morning alleging that Staff had committed “several serious contractual breaches,” forcing the fashion house to end the license prematurely.
Originally signed in 2002 and extended in 2010, the license was due to end in 2027. The Milan-based fashion house, founded by twins Dean and Dan Caten, first announced its decision to sever the licensing contract on Saturday morning, leading to a first rebuttal by Staff International that it would enforce the agreement.
But in the latest tit-for-tat, Staff responded Thursday afternoon: “In relation to the further statements released today by Dsquared2 through the press, Staff International denies the existence of any breaches of the license agreement in place with Grascoe Holdings Limited, Dsquared2 Trademarks Limited and designers Dean and Dan Caten.”
Besides Dsquared2, Staff International also manufactures several other acclaimed runway brands, which are controlled by Only the Brave (OTB), Rosso’s main holding company. These include Maison Margiela, Marni, Jil Sander, and his key denim marque, Diesel.
Staff International also noted that: “It reiterates that it has already brought an action before the Court of Milan seeking a declaration that the license agreement is still in force and that it is Grascoe Holdings Limited and the designers Dean and Dan Caten who have failed to fulfill their contractual obligations.”
Grascoe Holdings Limited is a business services company based in Dublin, Ireland, with an office in Lugano, Switzerland. Staff International filed a filing with the Milan commercial court naming it along with the designers and their trademarks.
The legal dispute between the Caten twins and Rosso, who scrupulously sat in the front row at Dsquared2 runway displays for two decades, is expected to prove increasingly bitter and complicated. In their release Thursday morning, the Catens referred to him as “billionaire Rosso” and insisted they were merely “safeguarding our dream, our legacy.”
The remarks clearly hit home, as Staff International concluded its release by stating: “It should also be noted that the involvement of Renzo Rosso in the statement issued by Dsquared2 to the press is completely inappropriate, as Renzo Rosso is not a party to the license agreement (which was signed exclusively by Staff International).”
This leads most observers to conclude that this is one fashion battle that will not be settled quickly.
Eyewear specialist InSpecs has released its preliminary results for 2024 and while its profit margin rose, revenue, underlying EBITDA and cash flows from operating activities all fell.
InSpecs
The company, which makes and markets its own brands as well as operating licenses for Barbour, Joseph, Radley, Superdry, Temperley and Viktor&Rolf, among others, said group revenue fell to £198.3 million from £203.3 million. At constant currency though it was only down to £203.2 million.
The gross profit margin rose to 52.2% from 50.9% but underlying EBITDA fell to £17.6 million from £18 million. Operating profit actually managed to rise to £3.4 million from £2.9 million but cash flows from operating activities were down to £14.2 million from £16.9 million. However, the company’s net debt excluding leasing was reduced to £22.9 million from £24.2 million.
The year saw a number of achievements including distribution agreed for key new brands in leading retailers across the US, Canada and Europe; completion of the group’s new state-of-the-art manufacturing facility in Vietnam; the integration of the US businesses; group centralised procurement generating supply chain efficiencies; the launch of a new optics product ‘Optaro’, being a video magnifier specifically made for smartphones; and new finance facilities put in place until 2027 with improved terms.
The company also responded to the current tariff situation and doesn’t seem excessively worried.
Its non-US based businesses aren’t currently affected by the recent changes in tariffs, and the group is “confident that the continuing focus on supply chain efficiencies, reducing operational expenditure and selective pass through of cost increases to preserve margins across key markets will largely mitigate the effects of these new tariffs”.
The company also set out its medium-term ambition to deliver CAGR organic revenue growth 40% above the market rate, which is currently forecast to grow at 3% CAGR over the next five years, as well as double-digit underlying EBITDA.
CEO Richard Peck said the firm “demonstrated resilience in 2024 despite challenging macroeconomic conditions, with revenue declining by 2.5% due to softer consumer demand and competitor consolidation. However, our continued focus throughout the year on the integration and simplification of our business has been significant.
“The first quarter has laid the groundwork for a pivotal year and as we move forward, the focus remains on sharpening efficiency, streamlining operations, and advancing key initiatives. Notwithstanding the recently announced tariffs and caution in relation to market conditions, compelling new projects in the pipeline give us confidence in delivering on market expectations for 2025.”
Fashion Revolution, which says it’s the world’s largest fashion activism movement, has announced details for Fashion Revolution Week 2025 that runs from 22-27 April.
Photo: Pixabay
The theme this year is Think Globally, Act Locally as it aims to engage local communities and policy-makers.
It’san undeniably big aim and comes “as governments worldwide backslide on legislation aimed at protecting the environment and garment workers’ rights, global brands are also silently deprioritising their sustainability goals and fossil fuel divestment, highlighting why collective citizen action matters now more than ever”.
Fashion Revolution Week 2025 will mobilise citizens through its network in over 80 countries and beyond, “to come together, raise awareness, upskill themselves, and advocate for improved social and environmental legislation, amplifying the message that fashion brands need to be held accountable for their impacts and increase transparency throughout their supply chains”.
Executive director Sarah Jay said: “As we usher Fashion Revolution into its second decade, we must build upon the spirit of allyship, inquiry, and community in which we were founded. Fash Rev’s inaugural question, ‘Who made my clothes?’ is as relevant now as ever. We must continue to ask bold questions, and demand transparency, solid commitments, and tangible action plans from brands, stakeholders, and policymakers. We must organise locally, connect strategically, and make our voices heard in support of greater legislative protections for the global fashion workforce, for biodiversity, and for the ecosystem services we continue to exploit through overproduction and consumption.”
The group has a Local Issues Toolkit that can be downloaded. It contains an overview of industry issues, as well as resources to help hone in on what’s most relevant to those taking part and their immediate community.
It’s advising on how to engage local policy-makers and there’s a Mend in Public Day planned for 26 April. This follows a successful launch in 2024. “Armed with needle and thread, Fashion Revolutionaries will be mending and stitching in protest of overproduction and consumption. Because in an age of throwaway fashion, repairing our clothes is a revolutionary act. Take the opportunity to join your local community, repair torn pockets and ripped seams and spark conversations on how to make Loved Clothes Last,” Fashion Revolution said.
Together with Slow Stitch Club, it’s also hosting an Online Darning Workshop on 26 April.
Burberry has taken an unusual approach for its High Summer campaign with a slightly less polished approach than usual.
It feel like a series of holiday snaps captured on 35mm film, but as usual with the brand, it’s a very British feel.
Featuring British model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and British tennis player Jack Draper, alongside models Alva Claire and Babacar N’Doye, “plus a few unmissable extras”, there’s a focus on size and age diversity.
The camera pans from sun loungers to yacht deck, ice lollies to lilos. There’s “even a random scuba diver” with the company’s tongue-in-cheek response to this being that it “can neither confirm nor deny rumours that the ‘random scuba diver’ is, in fact, the Burberry Knight”.
It’s all what creative chief Daniel Lee calls a “Burberry celluloid postcard – an arc of British idiosyncrasies and humour, with factor 50 on”.
He also said it was inspired by various “incredible yachting and holiday images” he found in the archive.
The campaign also includes a series of special events and hotel takeovers at surprise locations (actually The Newt in Somerset, England and The Standard on Ibiza in Spain) and the film celebrating the new High Summer capsule collection.
The film’s British feel is underscored with the ‘Shipping Forecast’ theme tune and the company said it “sits in charming contrast to its soundtrack. A ‘wish you were here?’ of sorts: two weeks away in the sun, but back home it’s raining”.
The cast wears the High Summer collection: a mix of check swimwear and shirt dresses. Nautical motifs, like knots fashioned into logos and sailboats, decorate silk dresses, shirts and shorts, worn with slides or espadrilles. Bags this summer are crochet-knit or woven into jacquards.
Lee said “we wanted to capture the joy of the British at play. A kind of kick-start to the summer. Burberry is a brand for all the seasons, don’t forget.”