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Spanish streetwear brand Kaotiko aims for 100 French retailers by 2026 as part of wider expansion

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Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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September 19, 2025

From a Barcelona skate shop to a brand distributed across Europe. Spanish label Kaotiko BCN has announced the ramp-up of its business in France, staging an event in early September at the Aujourd’hui-Demain boutique restaurant in Paris’s 11th arrondissement — a perfect backdrop for a proposition that riffs on Barcelona streetwear codes with fashion ambition.

SimonLeroy, who heads the brand’s network of agents in France, and Germán Bernad, Kaotiko’s managing director – FNW

For the brand, which presented its autumn-winter collection at the Who’s Next trade show last January, the aim is to position itself in this segment as an alternative with a Mediterranean twist to the ubiquitous Carhartt WIP. “There is a strong connection between Barcelona and the skateboarding world. In France, we observe a positive response to our proposal. Barcelona’s positive energy also resonates with French culture,” explains Germán Bernad, the company’s managing director.

That credibility has already won over around 60 points of sale in France — a network set to gain momentum, as Simon Leroy, who represents the label in France, has built a full team for the French market this year. A recent move for a name that has been active for a quarter of a century.

Skateboarding remains at the heart of the brand's offering
Skateboarding remains at the heart of the brand’s offering – Kaotiko

Over the past 25 years, Kaotiko has followed a distinct trajectory that aligns with its identity. The name originates from the multi-brand store dedicated to skateboarding and surfing, which was opened in 1999 by Katia Vilaginés and Ángel Palacios. The founders added their own products to the selection, with Katia Vilaginés designing the collection of T-shirts and sweatshirts.

The concept proved successful and expanded with further openings in Barcelona. The brand also built a reputation for producing locally, with 90% of its T-shirts made just a few kilometers from the Catalan capital. The concept proved compelling enough that, to expand, the founders brought Alicante-based Estudio 2000 on board as a shareholder. “About ten years ago, the founders were looking to develop their concept outside Barcelona. We had known each other for some time because our family business distributed Puma in Spain, and we saw an opportunity,” explains Germán Bernad. In 2018, the Bernad family acquired a large majority stake.

At the time, the company continued to expand its retail footprint while testing wholesale distribution of Kaotiko to retailers, structuring its range around seasonal collections. “We took part in the Bright skate show in Berlin, and we secured our first clients there,” recalls the managing director. “We also had our first contacts with Zalando at that time.”

Although the brand signed German retailers in its very first season, wholesale sales accounted for only a minor share for several years. The company reached €12 million in revenue in 2021, with its network of around a dozen stores across Spain still the main driver.

Kaotiko

But the brand simultaneously faced declining store traffic and the rise of new brands whose founders grew up with social media and are experts in digital communications. “Retail has become complicated, less reliable. In Spain, there are many new brands in the streetwear sector, which are very strong in marketing and organizing events and parties, engaging with their community. That is not exactly our identity. We rely on styling and design. We decided to close stores and invest in developing the wholesale business,” explains the managing director. “We reduced revenue but focused on profitability.”

By structuring its production for the multi-brand channel, Kaotiko has added footwear to its collection over the past three years and expanded its sourcing, notably in Portugal and Asia for long-sleeved pieces. The brand offers two drops per season and has also added more fashion-led capsules (with musical themes or “Café Lover”), with cuts better suited to retailers targeting a 30- to 45-year-old clientele, while also placing greater focus on womenswear silhouettes, which, according to the brand’s French agents, interest retailers.

The brand now has just four stores, which serve as showcases in Barcelona, Madrid and Valencia. In parallel, it is expanding with distributors in South Korea, as well as in Germany, Italy, and, of course, France — bringing the total to around 500 points of sale worldwide. It is expected to achieve sales of €7 million in 2025 and is targeting growth in 2026, with around 100 retailers for the French market. While sales are still predominantly generated in Spain, ongoing developments (including discussions about expansion in Latin America) should push the international share above 50% as early as 2026.

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He’s back for another buy, non-exec snaps up more Dr Martens shares

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December 15, 2025

Dr Martens announced its independent non-executive director Robert Hanson has been continuing to purchase the brand’s stock, in what looks like a further positive sign for the global footwear retailer.

Dr Martens

In a release to the London Stock Exchange, Dr Martens said Hanson has just purchased another 104,000 shares, worth over £80,000. This is in addition to the 96,000 shares he purchased a week ago (8 December) to the tune of around £75,000.

Hanson, who joined the Dr Martens’ board in March as a non-executive director and was previously president of Americas at Levi’s as well holding CEO roles at American Eagle Outfitters. He looks to be banking on a positive future for Doc Martens (and his post) with directorship purchases taken as a sign they’re expecting an improving performance in the markets and at retail.

Dr Martens is currently working through a recovery from a major period of weakness and it seems to be yielding results. Its first half update in November showed progress, with the America recovering.

Six-month results for the FY26 period to late September showed the execution of its new strategy on track with full-price DTC revenue rising 6%.

But there were some negative figures with overall revenue on a reported basis dipping by 0.8% to £322 million. However, it would have risen by 0.8% at constant currency rates.

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Leonard Paris announces Georg Lux’s departure from creative director role

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December 15, 2025

Leonard Paris is entering a period of transition: the brand and Georg Lux, its creative director since January 2021, have announced the end of their collaboration. In a statement issued by the house, Georg Lux describes this as “a precious chapter” in his career and notes the privilege of engaging with the brand’s heritage while imprinting it with his personal vision.

Georg Lux joined the house in 2021

The German designer joined the French luxury house to support a reinterpretation of its historic DNA. His collections sought to marry Leonard’s visual heritage, particularly its work with silk jersey and floral prints, with a more contemporary vocabulary tailored to an international clientele.

The end of a ‘fruitful’ collaboration

Yuichi Nishi, president of Leonard Paris, hailed the collaboration as ‘fruitful’ and highlighted the creative director’s ability to honour the house’s fundamental codes while showing creative boldness. The brand said it is approaching this transition “with serenity and ambition,” and announced that the details of the new creative direction will be unveiled shortly.

This change comes as Leonard faces a significant downturn in its business. According to the company’s financial statements for the year ending December 31 2024, net revenue totalled €6.77 million, compared with €7.26 million in 2023, confirming a pattern of erosion in recent years.

Declining financial results

This decline was accompanied by a net loss in 2024, following a loss already recorded the previous year, despite shareholder support and efforts to reposition the brand creatively. Georg Lux’s departure comes at a pivotal moment, when artistic renewal intersects with the brand’s economic challenges.

Acquired in 2022 by its long-standing Japanese partner Sankyo Seiko, Leonard has for several years been working to consolidate its positioning in a luxury market undergoing profound transformation, marked by intensifying competition and the greatly expanded communications capabilities of the major groups.

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Álké Ball launches as a new institution to secure recognition for African fashion

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December 15, 2025

“Africa is not here to be discovered; Africa is here to be recognised.” With that assertion, Lulu Shabell, founder and CEO of the Lulubell Group, launches Álké Ball, an institution dedicated to securing global recognition for African fashion.

The institution’s work is underpinned by the Álké Fund – The Álké Ball

Grounded in art, heritage, knowledge, and enterprise, the Álké project seeks to catalyse a decisive shift: from sporadic visibility to an intentional, structured, unified and globally influential African authority. Its name is drawn from the word “Álkébulan,” regarded by some as among the oldest known names for the African continent.

“Before the modern vocabulary of luxury, there was Africa”

Drawing on her experience across more than 20 African countries, Lulu Shabell has supported designers, helped to expand the African fashion industry, and forged international connections through the Lulubell Group. Under her leadership at Álké Ball, a pan-African collective of designers, archivists, curators, researchers, and creative strategists has taken shape.

Together, they advance a shared thesis: that long before silk, cotton, and the modern vocabulary of luxury, there was Africa- a place where pattern was a language, textiles a code, and clothing a philosophy. In Africa, fashion has never been purely decorative; it was, and remains, a testament to lineage, mastery, and thought.

Taking action through a fund

At the heart of Álké’s mission is the Álké Fund, a permanent, continent-wide financing structure designed to ensure the long-term stability, independence, and global competitiveness of Africa’s creative industries. The Álké Fund will invest strategically in four interconnected pillars that support Africa’s creative sovereignty.

Álké Ball is the brainchild of entrepreneur Lulu Shabell
Álké Ball is the brainchild of entrepreneur Lulu Shabell – Lulubell Group

To advance education and skills, Álké will create pathways for the next generation of creators, artisans, and entrepreneurs, ensuring that intergenerational knowledge is actively passed on rather than lost (which is also the mission of 54 Faces, an association co-led by Judy Sanderson). The institution will also focus on manufacturing and production capacity, strengthening local value chains, and accelerating innovation across both artisanal and industrial systems.

A first edition in Cape Town

Álké Ball will mobilise around archives, the preservation of craft expertise, and research: safeguarding African textile histories, indigenous knowledge systems, and craft techniques through documentation, conservation, and active use. Finally, the collective will work to develop African brands by promoting sustainable commercial growth, operational stability, and long-term international expansion.

According to Lulu Shabell and the pan-African collective, the fund is not merely a financial instrument. It is also a concrete response to decades of underinvestment in Africa’s creative and cultural industries. Its inaugural edition will take place in Cape Town, with subsequent editions rotating among Africa’s cultural capitals.

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