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Soshiotsuki wows with international debut at Pitti Uomo 109

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January 15, 2026

Designer Soshi Otsuki won himself a huge ovation at the key gala show of Pitti Uomo on Thursday after presenting a brilliant collection that celebrated classic western tailoring, even as it subverted its codes.

Soshiotsuki’s take on tailoring at Pitti – FashionNetwork.com

 
A tour de force of draping, cutting, and silhouette, this fall 2026 collection from his brand Soshiotsuki was definitely a major fashion statement.
 
In a moment of volume in menswear, Otsuki opened the action with a perfectly judged trio of to-die-for double-breasted suits with peak lapels in crepe and fine wool in various shades of grey- cement, mud, or dove.

He cut his jackets to end well below the hip and his trousers were something else. Made with a half-dozen front pleats, they were elephantine but never outrageous. Otsuki is such a great natural tailor, the exaggeration merely added to the elegance.

Soshiotsuki
Soshiotsuki – FashionNetwork.com

 
Soshi is no slouch when it comes to leather either. From his copper-hued leather rock god suit to his cocoon style leather bomber jacket. And, just when you thought he was playing a little too safe, he sent out some fab jeans, so degraded they almost looked moth-eaten. Tokyo street style meets sartorial Italian.
 
Playing on couture techniques, the designer also whipped up several bias-cut green corduroy blazers and suits marrying Japanese eccentricity and British aplomb.
 
The show was the latest Italian/Japanese marriage at this edition of Pitti that began with a Sebiro Sanpo tailoring association Japanese suit march inside the Fortezza da Basso, the giant fortress where the salon is staged. Remarkably, Otsuki has never actually studied suiting formally, but he somehow understands it instinctively.

Soshiotsuki
Soshiotsuki – FashionNetwork.com

 
The soundtrack, culled from composer Joe Hisaishi’s soundtrack to Takeshi Kitano’s 2000 gangster movie Brother, featured a beautifully yearning saxophone solo. It would have felt just right for one of Douglas Sirk’s 1950s melodramas starring Rock Hudson. One almost expected Rock to take the final passage. 
 
Presented inside the beautiful Refetterio Santa Maria della Novella, a looming Gothic refectory at the back of the legendary Renaissance Basilica, this was a bravura display.
 
Altogether, a bases loaded, home run, smash hit collection. One could say it felt like a star is born moment in menswear, except that Soshi Otsuki was already acclaimed. He is the latest winner of the LVMH Prize. 
 
Talk about backing up winning an award with a great fashion statement.
 
 

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Gabriela Hearst names Cohen its new president

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January 15, 2026

Gabriela Hearst has made a major leadership team announcement with Michele Cohen becoming its president, effective 15 January. It’s a new role that has been “defined to reflect the brand’s continued commercial momentum and to support its next phase of global growth”.

Michele Cohen – Photo: Max Fargo

It means Cohen will be leading the brand’s global commercial strategy, overseeing wholesale, retail, and e-commerce. She’s been tasked with expanding the business across markets, channels, and categories “while preserving the craftsmanship, responsibility, and long-term vision that define Gabriela Hearst”.

This is an internal promotion with Cohen having joined the business in 2015 as global head of sales and having “played an instrumental role in the brand’s growth and evolution over the past decade”.

The company cited her “deep expertise across global markets and hands-on leadership approach,” as well as the fact that she’s worked closely with founder Gabriela Hearst to “help build the business while preserving its commitment to craftsmanship, values, and long-term thinking”.

Hearst, who earlier this decade was also creative chief at Chloé before leaving to focus on her own label, said that of “all the announcements in my career this is the one I am the most proud of. Michele understands our values and culture of true quality, integrity, authenticity because she helped build it. It is extremely rewarding having worked along side her for the past decade to see her grow into her leadership. I can’t be more excited for the future of our house”.

Copyright © 2026 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Sailing and mountain specialist Helly Hansen looks to strengthen its position in urbanwear

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January 15, 2026

After winning over mountain and sailing professionals and enthusiasts, the historic Norwegian brand Helly Hansen– approaching its 150th anniversary and acquired in 2025 by the American group Kontoor Brands– is looking to strengthen its position in the urbanwear segment. And to achieve this goal, the Italian market plays an important role, as Italy country manager Michele Battocchio explains to FashionNetwork.com.

Helly Hansen at Pitti Uomo 109 – Photo: FNW/LG

“We develop garments for those who have to face the cold of Greenland; we are leaders in sailing, so why not offer this expertise to those who also want to wear a technical, high-performance garment in an urban setting?” the manager says. “We are at Pitti Uomo for the second season precisely because we want to strengthen our urban and sportswear line, which already exists but has significant growth potential.”

In 2025, Helly Hansen posted global revenue of approximately €750 million; Europe is the main market, with Italy accounting for around 4% of sales. “We aim to exceed €1 billion in revenue within five years. At present, the markets where we are investing most are North America, the home territory of the new parent company, and the Far East, particularly China, where within a couple of years we have expanded into around a hundred stores with a local partner,” the manager adds. “Italy is important not so much in terms of revenue as in terms of image; it is one of the countries with the highest levels of tourism, so it is essential to have selective distribution and a premium brand perception.”

The new Arctic Patrol Down parka
The new Arctic Patrol Down parka – Photo: FNW/LG

In Italy, Helly Hansen currently operates a single-brand store in Courmayeur and is stocked in around 250 multi-brand retailers, roughly thirty of which feature shop-in-shop concepts, mainly within prestigious seaside and mountain resorts.

“We generate 80% of our business through wholesale, and we want to continue to strengthen this channel through dedicated branded spaces,” Battocchio concludes. “Our long-term plans, over the next five years, also include opening further single-brand stores.”

Returning to professional products, Helly Hansen used the platform of Pitti Uomo 109 to present its new Arctic Patrol Down parka, developed with input from glaciologists and researchers from The Greenland Project, who provided insights into the conditions they face living and working in polar climates on a daily basis.

Specifically, the new parka has been designed to feel light on the shoulders, keep you warm even on the coldest days, and withstand hostile environments. The insulation is Allied’s HyperDRY, a special water-resistant down known for having the best weight-to-warmth ratio. For additional protection against the cold, the parka features a faux-fur trim on the hood, ideal in particularly snowy and windy conditions, which can be removed when not needed.

Every feature of the product has been designed with the feedback and needs of Arctic scientists in mind: the pockets and side zips are strategically positioned to be compatible with the use of a safety harness while wearing the parka; large pull tabs on the pockets allow them to be opened even when wearing gloves; and the outer fabric is reinforced with Cordura, a material resistant to rips and tears. Other functional features include a double-slider front zip with a double wind flap, generous internal pockets, and adjustable hem, hood and cuffs.

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Gap goes Hollywood with new chief entertainment officer

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January 15, 2026

Gap Inc. has tapped former Paramount executive Pam Kaufman to be its first chief entertainment officer, a sign the company is looking to grow its media presence. 

Apparel brand Gap is eyeing the entertainment sphere

Kaufman will help scale Gap’s entertainment and licensing platform in areas including television, film, and gaming, the company said in a statement. 

The new role, an unusual one for retailers, is especially meaningful for the company run by Richard Dickson, the executive who helped turn the Barbie doll into a movie sensation. Dickson is already bringing the company into the digital age, using flashy marketing campaigns and celebrity advertising to excite shoppers. 

Gap is also opening a Los Angeles office on Sunset Boulevard as part of its push toward what it calls “fashiontainment.” Last fall Gap also added Jody Gerson, CEO of Universal Music Publishing Group, to its board. 

“Fashion is entertainment, and today’s customers aren’t just buying apparel, they’re buying into brands that tell compelling stories and drive cultural conversations,” Dickson said in the release.



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